All posts by thecooktwit

A bloke from a little town called Newton-le-Willows in the North West of England. Works and plays in Manchester. He is of a certain age who likes his food and beer. This blog has foodie reviews. Personal opinions of the food and places I've been. Fully understands that preparing food is a tough gig. If I enjoy, it goes on here to let others know. Likes cooking as well. Likes trying the dishes we all see on telly and in celeb chef recipe books. You may notice 'the flame' gets a mention. She is my lovely wife who happens to have red hair! It's a nod to the musings of AA Gill whose wife he calls 'the blonde'. Enjoy

Old Wellington – Manchester

I think it’s fair to say we don’t usually consider the humble, city centre pub as a place to enjoy some fine evening grub. A couple of pints after work, meeting the mates to watch footy yes, but eat? Here in Manchester it’s the restaurants, bistros and trendy bars that seem to get the plaudits for a good feed.

I managed to coax my dad into the city to sample the odd jar of real ale. The aged relative had proved difficult to prise from his Monday nights in the local ‘conny’ club famed for its cheap beer. I, along with my young brethren set about plotting a sensible trek that would ply the major with quality ale rounding off with some decent nosebag. The Rising Sun and Sam’s Chop House set the ball rolling, they very thoughtfully provided the early evening alcoholic restoratives as prescribed. A JW Lees ‘Manchester Pale Ale’ and a Sharps ‘Doombar’ being the choice.
The old man looking slightly bronzed in Sams Chop House
The old man looking slightly bronzed in Sams Chop House
However, ever mindful of getting the old chap back home, tucked in bed without a hitch I reckoned a final throw at ‘The Old Wellington’ on the way to Victoria Rail station would round things off with aplomb. The Old Wellington in Manchester is within a short stroll of Manchester Cathedral and Exchange Square.  It has had an interesting past to say the least. There cant be many hostelrys of 1600 vintage that have been moved 100m from its original site some 400 years later!
From the outside Its has a real ‘olde worldey’ ‘choclate box’ appeal. It wouldn’t look out of place in leafy Kent or Cheshire. Inside the theme continues, wonky beams, wonky floors, ill fitting windows its all here, but given a polished sheen by owners Nicholsons.
A traditional old pub
A traditional old pub
First things first, we were able to supplant the septuagenarian into a comfy chair with a Thwaites ‘Nutty Black’. His first pint of mild of the night. A Thwaites ‘Wainwright’ (one if my favourites) wetted my pipes. The Old Wellington’s dining section is housed on the first and second floor. We nestled into a first floor slot. A short perusal of the traditional pub fayre menu soon had us choosing a hearty pre train gorge.
The menu
The menu
The provider of my very being went straight for the gammon, double egg and chips (£8.50). Basic stuff I admit but it got the thumbs up. Couldn’t fault the quantity or quality. I had the Iberian Black Pig and Apple burger (£10.50). This came on a wooden batten with some skin on chips. It was very good and certainly hit the spot. The young bruv had Venison Sausage and mash for £9.50 which were very tasty though he felt the sausages were a little overcooked. We didn’t have time for sweet but we all came away suggesting we’d come again. You never know we might bring my mum next time!
Gammon, Iberian Black Pig Burger
Gammon, Iberian Black Pig Burger
So spare a thought for the humble pub, they are still here and worth a good seeing to.
Old Wellington
4 Cathedral Gates,
Manchester,
M3 1SW
0161 839 5179

Friday Food Fight – Manchester

I’m an old rocker me, more partial to a Deep Purple gig. Bearing that in mind imagine the terror I felt when entering the darkened arena that had been created to house the hot trending, street food binge #FridayFoodFight. Whilst the food blurb sounded good it was listed alongside rave DJ types like Jonny Dub, Will Tramp!, Krysko and Gold Teeth. I was a bit scared I would have to take my shirt off!

A hip trending #hashtag
A hip trending #hashtag

Note the #hashtag in front of Friday Food fight? that’s the sign that’s been flashing through all the foodies twitter accounts over the last few weeks. It’s been a bit cryptic though, as even on the day it wasn’t clear to me what it was and whether you could rock up or whether you needed a ticket?  As it happens a few pints after work with a few chums morphed into a ‘where should we eat, I’m hungry?’. We meandered over to the Upper Campfield Market housed in the shadow of Beetham Towers and opposite fave ale joint ‘Cask’. The twitter campaign had at least revealed the venue. It’s reckoned 400 punters can fit in this wonderful, old, industrial structure.

The list for the first event
The list for the first event

By this time it was pushing 9pm and we were able to get in free and easily. Once inside the atmosphere was electric. Suitably dark, suitably urban and hip, suitably not too loud with a very suitable line up of street food vendors the juices soon started to flow. The foodies where housed down one side of the hall behind a makeshift bar. Their portion of the bench highlighted with a banner and blackboard menu slung overhead on a cross wire.

The old market lights up. Thanks to someone else for the pic!
The old market lights up. Thanks to someone else for the pic!

The scheme has been hatched by B.Eat Street MCR. They have rounded up food purveyors like Lucha Libre, Solita, Diamond Dogs, Piggie Smalls and Yang Sing to feed punters at the Campfield site for a 12-week celebration of food. The food list for the first event certainly lived up to the billing!   A quick sweep across the boards sent me stage left to Andrew Nutters ‘Nutsfood’. The ‘Great British Fritter’ peaking my curiosity. A good eight inches of bury black pudding and Lancashire cheese encased in batter, served on a wad of £10 notes and some sauce. It was hot, crunchy, tasty and satisfying. As an extra treat fellow foodie, young Jinn, bagged me a quick snatch of black pudding won tons, set in a trendy cone and British flag! It was all great, but I needed more!

Nutters homage to Bury black pudding!
Nutters homage to Bury black pudding!

A further sweep took me to ‘Love From The Streets’. They were doing their ‘street box’ which had two fat pieces of the spiciest jerk chicken I’ve ever had with some ‘bad’ slaw (I think that means good!) and ‘dirty’ bean rice (how hip are you? -Ed).  It was a bit spicy for me, especially with one of the sauces off the bar.

Love From The Streets - hot stuff
Love From The Streets – hot stuff

I was tempted to round off with some sweet, but the need for more beer took over. The Sugar Rush Gals had me severely tempted with their cheese and pineapple deserts.   To be honest I could have run down the line blindfold and had any of the food on offer, Solita’s burger, Honest Crust’s pizza, Diamond Dogs hot dogs, Lucha Libre’s Mexican, Piggy Smalls pork delights, Umuzsushi Japanese, Arepa Arepa Arepa the list goes on, it all looked really good.   And on top of all that there was great beer on and I didn’t have to take my shirt off and get down with the kids!

I got the train back about ten o’ clock so whether the dance music got more serious after I couldn’t say. As I mentioned its on every Friday for the next twelve weeks culminating in May. I’ll definitely be going again. It’s a great move by the organisers and great for Manchester. It reminded me a little bit of Camp and Furnace in Liverpool, so that’s no bad thing. Yang Sing are there this week, the food surprises just keep on coming, get down there and give it a try.

Weekly from Fri 7 Mar,

Upper Campfield Market, 5.30pm-11.30pm, Free entry,

full line ups here: http://www.beatstreetmcr.co.uk

Proper Tea – Manchester Cathedral

A bad dose of planning had the Cook Twit trailing across the grand metropolis of Manchester a little too early for comfort one Saturday morning. Nonetheless he doesn’t shirk, he doesn’t quibble, he trots off back to the Victorian rail terminus for the short trek back home to the sticks. However, a quick check of the trolley bus timings shows that at the current rate of progress he will be lodged on an icy, windswept platform for a heady twenty five minutes. Thoughts quickly turn to a ‘livener’ in the nearest hostelry, but hark, what is this? A quaint, well stocked tea room homes into view. Maybe, just maybe a brew and a ‘snackette’ will stave off the unpleasantness of the pre mentioned stand on the concrete ledge?

The Cathedral through the window
The Cathedral through the window
In what was the work of a moment, the cook twit found himself gazing across the snow dropped lawns to the stately spectacle of the Cathedral of Manchester. A glance downwards found him scanning through a neatly printed menu belonging to ‘Proper Tea’. And a thoroughly decent ‘tearoomy’ menu it is too. A significant lineage of teas ran alongside the traditional fayre of sandwiches, soups and sweet cakes. Afternoon tea is an option at £16 a head, the sandwiches are on polish rye with various cheeses, pickles, hams, chickens and mushrooms. It’s all thoroughly pleasant stuff.
Menu and  room
Menu and room
Sadly, a little known fact to many, is that the cook twit can’t stand tea or indeed the smell of it and so a ‘proper’ coffee was ordered instead. Cathedral blend no less. Having surveyed the substantial stock of sweet ‘cakeage’ on the counter a ‘mini’ flapjack in the shape of a newly born muffin was also acquired. I am pleased to announce that both parts of the £3.70’s worth of subsistence were well on par.
The brew and the little flapjack
The brew and the little flapjack
The room is beautifully appointed, a chequered floor, light wood tables and chairs created a quaint but modern look. Service was maintained by two young blades in vintage pinnies. They were prompt and smiling. There was only a couple of tables left when I swept in. I suspect it gets pretty packed at peak times. I recommend you get in early with a bit of a thirst and a bit of a hunger. The ‘Proper Tea’ rooms will get you back in fettle.
Serious cakeage!
Serious cakeage!
Proper Tea
Manchester Cathedral
Visitors Centre,
10 Cateaton Street
Manchester,
M3 1SQ
Monday to Saturday 10.00 – 18.30
Sundays 10.00 – 17.00
+44(0)161 832 3220
hello@properteadeveloper.com

Jamie Oliver’s Trattoria Richmond

The daily rags have been gloating lately over the apparent demise of some of Jamie Oliver’s Italian outfits. Word is that they are lacking a bit of the old folding stuff and the reaper is beckoning.  The Cooktwit in times of panic is occasionally secreted to pastures elsewhere, leaving the North West to fend for itself. One such episode left the Cooktwit schlepping round the southern, luvvie and rugby enclave Richmond Upon Thames. As his want he needed to satiate in unfamiliar territory. After some rather pleasant examples of standard pub grub he plumbed into the strangely named ‘Trattoria Richmond’. A bit confusing really but there’s plenty of branding around to let you know Jamie Oliver has got his paws in the till.

Vintage font and cistern!
Vintage font and cistern!

Given I had spent most of the day inspecting old school furniture, I had a wry smile as most of the furniture in here looked like the stuff I was advising others to throw out!! Still, the surroundings were pleasant enough, although the chair I selected at my table for three was a bit saggy and low due to its previous forty years of use! The whole affair screams vintage, right from the menu font to the gents water cistern!

Focaccia, squid, truffle pasta, berry frangipan
Focaccia, squid, truffle pasta, berry frangipan

The food worked out well enough. I ordered a large glass of deep red ‘Montipulciano’, some tap water and some focaccia with olive oil and balsamic (£3.00). I secretly hoped the bread would be warm but it was cold. Still it was tasty enough and helped stave off a raving hunger.  Next up was some deep fried squid with lemon and garlic mayo. It came on a paddle and some chintzy napkin. The rings were a bit small and so the taste of batter pervaded rather more than it should, but it was crunchy, hot and not bad for £3.50. My main dish was Truffle Tagliotelli. I’ve never had truffle so I was really looking forward to this. It didn’t disappoint. Some of the blurb boasts that they make their own dough and pasta. If that was true it really worked, the pasta strips were perfectly cooked and tasted superb, arguably the best pasta I’ve had in a long time (including my own!!). The truffle sauce was lovely and ‘mushroomy’ and thankfully I had saved some bread to mop up.  A berry, frangipani tart with clotted cream finished along with a black, Italian coffee.

image

All in all a top bit of Italian scran, all for £28. I was in quite early around 5.30 on a Thursday eve. There wasn’t many in at the time and so it was a bit quiet, but by the time I came to pay, a good ninety minutes later, the long narrow place was buzzing and operating at three quarter pace. Service was efficient and friendly, so let’s hope these Jamie’s gaffs get a pick up and keep going, I’d go again.

Trattoria, 12-13 King Street,  Richmond,  TW9 1ND Jamieoliver.com 0207 096 3930

 

 

Reds True BBQ – Albert Square Manchester

Its February the 13th, the day before Valentines. The pressures on to woo the flame and make sure the Cooktwit can still show a girl a good time. So with a three hour ‘prog rock’ gig booked at the Apollo (Dream Theater for those in the know!) the question was where do I take the love of ones life for the pre gig tucker?
As luck would have it some Yorkshire folk ‘fromt tuther side et penines’ have turned up and gutted the old ‘Live Bait’ gaff. I happen to work next door and so it was the work of a moment to convince some poor waif at the door that I was worth keeping a small table in readiness for a cheeky couplet at six.
Industrial and neon
Industrial and neon
I won’t lie, the flame is more of a fine dining sort of lass. ‘Reds True Barbecue’ is not fine dining. In fact as the name suggests, the scran turns up in tins on plastic trays, (though not burnt on the outside and raw in the middle). This is a true American style diner, with burgers, steak, pork, ribs and appropriate sides the order of the day. It’s mighty fine stuff though.
In fairness the transition from a fish restaurant to meat heaven has been accomplished with rich, humorous, funky aplomb. The decor is a combination of industrial scrap, neon flash, park benching and (I kid you not) plastic school chairs. Combined with an x rated megawatt music system it generates an atmosphere unlike any I’ve ever experienced. Still as a fifty something I can’t deny getting mildly squiffy when Bad Company’s ‘Shooting Star’ crashed through the speakers mid way through a ‘jelapeno popper’.
With regards to the subsistence, things got off to a great start with a pint of ‘Shipyard Californian Pale Ale’. A welcome surprise. Our table was one of the last left and was holed up in a corner on one of the upper decks in a dark corner, as a consequence my lack of reading glasses made digesting the mad cap menu somewhat tiresome. I nipped outside on the street where a couple of large floodlit versions are displayed. Moments later I had chosen.
The food, some library pictures as mine were too dark!
The food, some library pictures as mine were too dark!
We both went for ‘BBQ plates’, I the North Carolina pulled pork, the flame had half a chicken. Each came with either two ‘humble’ sides or one ‘divine’ side. I had a divine tin of sweet potato fries, whilst the loved one across the bench had a rather humble, but pleasant potato salad and a side salad. My pulled pork came with homemade slaw, some pork scratchings and a small ‘tublet’ of apple sauce. Mine wasn’t very hot but it was tasty, and the crunchy texture provided by the folded in scratchings gave it a nice touch. I had the pleasure of stripping the flames chicken carcass (for research purposes) and can concur that the chicken was cooked well and tasted great in its sticky, barbecued coat. Both dishes were enhanced by the introduction of one or all of the sauces that are thoughtfully provided on each table. The hottest one in particular added a welcome zing. I’d step down a couple unless you are a big chilli fan!
I added a desert to the mix. It’s only a small menu, the chocolate peanut butter cheesecake was tempting but I wolfed a ‘Reds banana pudding’ instead. This came in a huge oval tin, layered at the base with sponge, the bananas then swam in vanilla custard, topped with grilled meringue. It was sweet and I loved it. The flame was less impressed and finished with a black coffee in a glass!
Bloggers welcome! A floodlit menu!
Bloggers welcome! A floodlit menu!
It all came to £37 for the two of us. If I’m honest I probably didn’t chose very well but have to say the burgers looked incredible and I’ll definitely be back with a gang to try one. It’s a great place to meet friends and take the kids to. The atmosphere is tremendous, the service from Sian our waitress, was enthusiastic, very friendly and efficient. Hopefully it will do well and continue to make great use of this grand old space. It’s another great reason to head over to the famous Albert Square.
Reds True BBQ
22 Lloyd Street
Albert Square
M2 5WA
0161 820 9140
albertsquare@truebarbecue.com

Braised Ox Cheeks – A Winter Stew

I’m not going to lie to you, a raw ox cheek does not scream eat me. When Nicola (my local butcher from Red Bank Farm) heaved an immense globule of fatty, car tyre from its display lair, I was tempted to suggest she lever it back into place. I’ve had pigs cheeks before, they were dainty ‘ovalettes’ of tender, meaty goodness, a stark contract to the wad of flesh that an ox chews it’s cud against. However, a strange curiosity made me keep up with the scheme and so a Sunday tea of ‘braised ox cheek’ was born.

The ox cheek before and after the marinating
The ox cheek before and after the marinating
A recipe was found courtesy of James Ramsden, foodie writer. I skirt through his method with my added pics and words. Hopefully they merely embellish an already glorious wordage. As many meat lovers may already know, fatty when slow cooked for a long time becomes spectacularly gelatinous, and (in James’s words) extraordinarily handsome. I do urge you to do this. The results are extraordinary. Ox cheek is wonderfully flavoursome, perfect for a winters eve. About 15 minutes prep is all that’s needed. The oven does the rest.

It can be done a day or two ahead if you like – the flavour will only improve – I served with greens and mustard mashed potato.

Browning, adding the veg and then shredding after the oven
Browning, adding the veg and then shredding after the oven
Braised Ox Cheeks
Serves 4-6

 

Ingredients

 

For the marinade

 

2 ox cheeks, 1.5-2kg
Half a bottle of red wine
A bay leaf
A few peppercorns
A garlic clove, squished
A dried red chilli

 

For the braise

 

50g butter
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
1 stick of celery, finely chopped
2 carrots, peeled and diced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
300ml beef or chicken stock
1 tbsp tomato puree
Salt and pepper
Oil

 

Method

 

Put the ox cheeks in a bowl with the other marinade ingredients and add a good pinch of salt. Leave for as long as you can – ideally in the fridge for a few days, (I left mine in the garage overnight!), but an hour is better than nothing

 

Preheat the oven to 160C. Remove cheeks from marinade and pat thoroughly dry. Heat a drop of oil (if using olive don’t use your best) in a frying pan over a strong flame and brown the cheeks thoroughly, seasoning with salt and pepper as you go. Transfer to a large saucepan. I ended up using my beloved ‘Le Crueset’ roasting tin.

 

Lower the heat in the frying pan. Add the butter and melt, then add the vegetables and a good pinch of salt and pepper. Soften for a few minutes then add to the pan with the ox cheeks.

 

Tip the marinade into the frying pan along with the stock and bring to a simmer, scraping any sticky bits off the pan. Tip this into the saucepan, cover, and transfer to the oven. Cook for 3-4 hours until tender.
Remove the cheeks from the braising liquor and rest in a bowl. Put the saucepan over a generous heat, add the tomato puree, and simmer to reduce by about a half.

Meanwhile shred the cheeks with a couple of forks. Return to the pan and stir through the reduced broth. Keep warm until ready to serve, or cool and refrigerate until whenever. I promise it will be spectacular!

The final result, rich and uncious
The final result, rich and uncious
Recipe by James Ramsden  @jteramsden http://www.greatbritishchefs.com

 

Ox cheeks by Red Bank Farm http://www.farmshopnorthwest.co.uk
Red Bank Farm Shop, Winwick Road,
Newton Le Willows, Warrington, WA12 8DU
Tel: 07824 369174

Seville Orange Maramalade by Nigel Slater

January and February herald many things, despair, desolation, cold, misery, darkness, bankruptcy, mumps, typhoid…..no I made some of that up, but generally it takes a bit to get the old fire stoked and get the year motoring up to speed. What it really means to some is Seville Oranges and that then means marmalade. Real, shiny, bitter, sweet, tangy, sumptuous, sticky marmalade.
I’ve never been a particular fan until one Christmas, The Flame floated a weighty tomb by Nigel Slater into my grubby mits. Entitled the 4th Kitchen Diaries it charts what grub is in and when throughout the year. February 4th the dashing, young, TV cook slots in some soupy words along with a recipe for ‘Seville Orange Marmalade’. A hip, arty shot enhances the already rampant taste buds. I’m hooked, within days an armful of the Spanish fruits are on the slab being dissecting and boiled. I supply below pics, ingredients and a method (roughly supplanted from Nigel’s sketch).

 

The ingredients are simplicity itself – Seville Oranges 1.3kg (about 15), Lemons 2 off and Golden granulated sugar 2.6kg. You’ll also need 2.5 litres of water.
In total this little lot set me back about £7.50, the sugar really costing the most. It tipped up about 10 jars of the golden juice. You will need to put away a few hours of your life. It is time you will never get back so you must enjoy it!! It is worth it though, trust me.
The prep in pictures!
The prep in pictures!
1) First up is to remove the peel and pith from the oranges and lemons. Nigel prescribes a cracking way here. Take a very sharp knife and score four lines down each fruit from top to bottom, as if you were cutting it into quarters. Let the knife cut through the peel without going into the fruit. The peel is then easy to remove by hand.
2) Cut the peel into fine shreds (or to a size you want them if you like a chunkier texture) and put them into a large bowl. This is good training for your knife skills!
3) Squeeze all the juice from the oranges and lemons into the bowl, but catching the pips and keeping them to one side. I found my ‘Joseph Joseph’ hand juicer balanced over a sieve, over the bowl, made this fairly fiddly task go by with minimum fuss. (I’m afraid the kitchen diaries took a bit of a dousing with squeezed orange at this point!). Chop the pulp up and put that in with the juice.
4) Add the 2.5 litres of cold water, pouring it into the bowl with the shredded peel. Tie the reserved orange and lemon pips in a muslin bag and push into the peel and juice. Set aside in a cold place and leave overnight.
The pips, the sugar, the boil and rest.
The pips, the sugar, the boil and rest.
5) The next day, tip the juice and shredded peel into a large stainless steel or enamelled pan (or a preserving pan for those lucky enough to have one) and push the muslin bag down under the juice. Bring to the boil then lower the heat so that the liquid continues to simmer merrily. It is ready when the peel is totally soft and translucent. This can take anything from 40 minutes to a good hour-and-a-half, depending purely on how thick you have cut your peel. (I left mine a good hour and a half to be sure, and the peel was then soft and the pith translucent).
6) Once the fruit is ready, lift out the muslin bag and leave it in a bowl until it is cool enough to handle. Start adding the sugar to the peel and juice then turn up the heat, bringing the marmalade to a rolling boil.
7) Squeeze every last bit of juice from the reserved muslin bag into the pan. Skim off any froth that rises to the surface. (If you don’t your preserve will be cloudy.) Leave at a fast boil for 15 minutes. Remove a tablespoon of the preserve, put it on a plate, and pop it into the fridge for a few minutes. If a thick skin forms on the surface of the refrigerated marmalade, then it is ready and you can switch the pan off. If the tester is still liquid, then let the marmalade boil for longer. Test every 10 to 15 minutes. Some mixtures can take up to 50 minutes to reach setting consistency.
8) Mine did work after 15 minutes. After turning the heat off I got my assortment of jars soaking in water with sterilising tablets. I then ladled the hot, burnt orange juice into the sterilised pots and sealed immediately.
The final result
The final result
Suffice to say I now have a veritable phalanx of sweet, bitter preserve to lash on to the bun, the toast, the crumpet and last but not least the cinnamon bagel. Enjoy.

 

Thanks to Nigel Slater and the 4th Edition of the Kitchen Diaries. Well worth a purchase from all good book shops and inter web portals.
Catch Nigel on twitter @NigelSlater where he provides a cordial and helpful repartee in 140 characters!

The Perfect Duck Breast !

The perfect duck breast has proven a little illusive for me but I’ve just tried this one out. It was by A McKenna (@goosnargh_duck) who specialise in raising corn fed chickens and goosnargh ducks. I managed to bag a couple of plump, Goosnargh duck breasts from them at the Artisan food market in Wilmslow, Cheshire. The flame and I are quite partial to a plump breast and it’s always a help when said proprietor hands over a neat, witty cooking instruction to help you on the way.

photo 1
The finished dish on puy lentils

I have replicated the text almost word for word. There might be the odd gag thrown in!

Serves 4

1-  Take four duck breasts, don’t trim them (I always used to!), lay them flesh side down on a board.
2 – Get a sharp knife and score the skin all the way through to the flesh, don’t cut the flesh, just let the blade touch the flesh. The big thing here is to make sure you score all the way to the edge of the breast so that as the skin shrinks during cooking it doesn’t pull the flesh and make it tough.
3 – Season the skin (only the skin side it says here) with a generous amount of salt and freshly ground black pepper.
4 – Take a solid, heavy frying pan and turn the heat to three quarters on your hob to get it going. Lay the duck skin side down in the cold pan, put the pan on the heat and turn down to about half. I have an induction hob so I did on 6 (out of 9).

photo 2
Scored, skin side down, turned over and rest

5 – Now it says, “Do Not Touch Anything, do not move the pan, don’t even think about it”. Apparently what is going to happen over the next ten minutes is that the fat under the skin will slowly melt and the skin will go brown and crispy.
6 – when the skin starts to colour around the outside you are ready to move on. This should take about 7 minutes. The pan will have a good 1cm of duck fat in it and all of the duck fat will have melted.
7 – now season the flesh side (not before it insists), then turn the duck breasts over and cook for two minutes. Then increase the temperature to full for a further 1 minute.
8 – take the pan off the heat and leave the breasts in the pan for 5 minutes while you prepare your side dishes.
9 – then slice. It will then be very sexy indeed. See pics for proof!!

You can keep the rendered duck fat for cooking roasties. Four duck breasts will produce about 200ml of fat.
I served my duck on a bed of mustard flavoured puy lentils.

Thanks to A McKenna of Goosnargh Duck twitter @goosnargh_duck
The artisan market operates in Cheshire most Sundays through the year visit http://www.theartisanmarket.co.uk

Camp and Furnace – Liverpool

It’s term time again. For our sins, The flame and I are blessed with two, southern, grand daughters. Fresh up from the big smoke we decide to treat them and take them out for a big feed. Their city of learning is Liverpool. I decided there’s only one place to take the learned couplet – Camp and Furnace. 
‘Camp’ in this instance refers to camping and outdoor pursuits, ‘furnace’ refers to the errr…… Furnace that’s set at one end of the big room inside. 
This is a feeding hole like no other. Set in an old industrial unit in the ‘Baltic Triangle’, a good fifteen minute walk from the main metrop, this is a place that has to be seen to be believed.
The surroundings could be described as urban chic. First time round you could be forgiven for turning back, turning your map upside down or binning your google maps. Branding must be uncool round here. An old, rusty, stencilled oil drum, the only marker to suggest you have hit the spot. If you venture further into the lair the swish of an electric portal sweeps you into the spatial grounds within.

Image 

The industrial scheme continues inside. The bar area hits first, the bar itself to the left is built of marine ply and lit with trendy metal pendants. To the right a glorious, roaring contemporary fire. Beyond the bar area you enter the grand arena, or brick warehouse whichever you prefer! It’s here where the magic begins. To the right down in the depths of a huge vault, a raging inferno fuelled by cages of logs light up the ‘furnace’, its four orange eyes providing a glowing backdrop as punters pose for snaps. Ancient, rusted ‘craneage’ and girders hide in the rafters beneath a vintage glazed roof. Lines of up cycled, trestle tables and benches, each thoughtfully lit with wine bottle candles create a truly unique and welcoming atmosphere. Our little crew have a table for four to ourselves. There are numerous parties going on, each occupying their own sub sections of the plank like dining suites.

Image

As it was a Sunday, the Camp sets it’s stall on providing a top notch Sunday Roast (between 1pm and 6pm). The main course is either 28-day dry-aged Lancashire Sirloin (£12.50), whole roast corn-fed chickens (£11.50 from the heart of rural Britanny) or heritage Herdwick lamb (£11.50). These all come served on wooden platters with locally sourced, seasonal vegetables. A mushroom Wellington is added for the veggies. 
It is advised to order the main event before you turn up. We went for the beef and the lamb. The chicken comes whole and looked superb, but is recommended for three. I think a hungry twosome could have down quaffed it at a push! 
There is the option for a starter as well as a desert. We decided to plough straight on for the mains but the starters sounded good, potato soup (£4) poached salmon salad (£6) or confit of lamb shoulder (£6). 
The excitement racked up as the team of raffish young waiters and waitresses marched into the arena with board after board of meat, bowls of perfect roast spuds and more bowls of buttery veg. The rather wonderful, Irish lilted, Emma kept our table fed and watered and oversaw the delivery of our splendid feed. Four thick slabs of pink sirloin and four of (less pink) lamb kept the protein intake in check, great yorkshires, great spuds, roasted carrots, buttery cabbage and crispy kale provided the carbs and greens. Considering the quantities being put out the quality was very good. A minor quibble for the flame was that the veg and meat by the time it had made its way down the room was less than hot, but for me this was remedied by the thumping great jug of hot gravy that was gifted out like steins at a beer festival.

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After the feast we opted for the two deserts. Essex girl No 1 Jess, went for the peanut butter cheesecake (£6) while Essex girl No 2 Nancy went with the flame and I for the four portion sticky toffee pudding (£12). The Cooktwit, for research purposes, was allowed a brief morsel of the cheesecake. It was very ‘peanutbuttery’ and a bit grainy in texture, but set on a great biscuit base. The toffee pudding came set in its own 12″, low slung bowl with a mug of piping hot, toffee sauce and a bowl of vanilla ice cream. It wasn’t ‘Cartmel’ sticky toffee pudding by any means, but once the hot jus had soaked in and the ice cream melted alongside it was heavenly. A great, comforting, hearty finish to a very enjoyable trough out.

As a minor aside, it is worth mentioning that it was uncomfortably cold at times. We had an industrial blast heater to keep us up to temp but as more came in we had to share and it did start to get a little uncomfortable. In winter this is not a place to take your granny for a cosy chomp! I would advise wrapping up a bit. But that is part of the fun. You can’t have an outdoor theme in industrial England and expect to lounge around in your ‘Y’ fronts!
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In summary this is a truly magical place to come with the family and friends. The Camp has some great events throughout the year. The beer festival in June looks like a date! We will definitely be back on another day to try out the normal menu. All indications suggest that will be a triumph as well. Get yourself down here, it is truly a special and has to be sampled to be believed.

Camp and Furnace
67 Greenland Street
Liverpool L1 0BY
enquiries@campandfurnace.com
(0151) 708 2890

The Gazelle – Menai Bridge, Anglesey

Got a bit of a soft spot for Anglesey. Quite often nip over for a bit of camping in the summer. However, the flame and I and two others couples checked in at a beach side cottage on Red Wharf Bay for New Year. Had a belting time. However, whilst we mainly cooked ourselves we fancied a final celebratory meal. Another pal, Mr Gardner, a cove of some standing suggested we try ‘The Gazelle’.
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It’s initial attraction is it’s amazing location. It juts invitingly into the waters of the Menai Straits, directly opposite the famous Bangor pier. A glance to the right reveals the magnificent, original Menai bridge. If you look forward you get the Snowdonian mountains. Its all rather impressive. You have to negotiate a narrow track down from the ‘Beaumaris’ coast road, it’s easily missed, but it’s well worth the effort to seek out and take on. When we arrived the tide was in and a winter storm was lashing up the straits. However, a warm welcome beckoned.
The place looks to have had a fairly recent makeover and all to a good standard. There are a number of rooms. The residents lounge resplendent in red leather, the bar is homely with a good range of ales, a couple of other rooms have ornate, antique perches, all for eating in. We however, plumbed for the ‘restaurant’ bit. It is tastefully decked out with a more contemporary feel than the other rooms, light oak splashed with pastel shades and heavy, grey wicker chairs. Very pleasant it is too. It was warm as well, no mean feat given the wind and rain lashing against its modern bay windows.
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The food was good as well. A comprehensive, professionally printed menu suggested it was all standard pub fayre. It does have a specials board though and claimed most of the produce is locally sourced. It did have Menai Strait Mussels, so you can’t get more local than that! As you’d expect for an island, fish and seafood is heavily featured. Indeed the starters were either fish, mushrooms or goats cheese. Prawns, whitebait, mussels and salmon all listed.
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Mains are more varied but the party mostly went for fish, except for me, who had pork belly ribs in a homemade barbeque sauce with salad and chunky chips (£9.95). The ribs were set in their own dish on the plate. They were succulent and tasty, the sauce was sticky and lovely, definitely home made. Even the chips were great and doubled up as small mops to wipe up the excess sauce that was left.
The flame went from the specials board and had a trio of smoked salmon, trout and halibut with a well dressed salad (£11.95). I must admit cured fish is not my cup of tea, but she proclaimed all to be well and thoroughly enjoyed it. It seemed a bit sparse for £11.95 to me, but the flame was well chuffed. One of our friends had a halibut steak wrapped in spinach and pancetta with a cheese sauce, whilst another scooped up the smoked haddock fish cake which was massive.
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A few of us had deserts. My caramel apple pie was lovely but was easily surpassed by the hot apple crumble filled to the brim of the dish with hot custard. This was wolfed away with aplomb by the flame. I was allowed a spoonful and can vouch that it was comfort food personified, perfect for a cold winters eve.
The whole shebang came to £106 for six of us. We only had two courses but it was a perfect end to a great new year break.
So there it is, if you do happen to venture onto the wonderful isle of Anglesey there are some great places to visit and plenty of great pubs. I would definitely give ‘The Gazelle’ a thought if you need a decent feed in a superb location. I can imagine sat outside in summer it would be a real treat. Give it a go. We’ll be back.
The Gazelle Hotel
Glynn Garth
Menai Bridge
Isle of Anglesey
LL59 5PD
01248 713364