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At restaurants, pubs and other fine eateries

Eating Out Reviews

Reds True BBQ – Albert Square Manchester

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Its February the 13th, the day before Valentines. The pressures on to woo the flame and make sure the Cooktwit can still show a girl a good time. So with a three hour ‘prog rock’ gig booked at the Apollo (Dream Theater for those in the know!) the question was where do I take the love of ones life for the pre gig tucker?
As luck would have it some Yorkshire folk ‘fromt tuther side et penines’ have turned up and gutted the old ‘Live Bait’ gaff. I happen to work next door and so it was the work of a moment to convince some poor waif at the door that I was worth keeping a small table in readiness for a cheeky couplet at six.
Industrial and neon
Industrial and neon
I won’t lie, the flame is more of a fine dining sort of lass. ‘Reds True Barbecue’ is not fine dining. In fact as the name suggests, the scran turns up in tins on plastic trays, (though not burnt on the outside and raw in the middle). This is a true American style diner, with burgers, steak, pork, ribs and appropriate sides the order of the day. It’s mighty fine stuff though.
In fairness the transition from a fish restaurant to meat heaven has been accomplished with rich, humorous, funky aplomb. The decor is a combination of industrial scrap, neon flash, park benching and (I kid you not) plastic school chairs. Combined with an x rated megawatt music system it generates an atmosphere unlike any I’ve ever experienced. Still as a fifty something I can’t deny getting mildly squiffy when Bad Company’s ‘Shooting Star’ crashed through the speakers mid way through a ‘jelapeno popper’.
With regards to the subsistence, things got off to a great start with a pint of ‘Shipyard Californian Pale Ale’. A welcome surprise. Our table was one of the last left and was holed up in a corner on one of the upper decks in a dark corner, as a consequence my lack of reading glasses made digesting the mad cap menu somewhat tiresome. I nipped outside on the street where a couple of large floodlit versions are displayed. Moments later I had chosen.
The food, some library pictures as mine were too dark!
The food, some library pictures as mine were too dark!
We both went for ‘BBQ plates’, I the North Carolina pulled pork, the flame had half a chicken. Each came with either two ‘humble’ sides or one ‘divine’ side. I had a divine tin of sweet potato fries, whilst the loved one across the bench had a rather humble, but pleasant potato salad and a side salad. My pulled pork came with homemade slaw, some pork scratchings and a small ‘tublet’ of apple sauce. Mine wasn’t very hot but it was tasty, and the crunchy texture provided by the folded in scratchings gave it a nice touch. I had the pleasure of stripping the flames chicken carcass (for research purposes) and can concur that the chicken was cooked well and tasted great in its sticky, barbecued coat. Both dishes were enhanced by the introduction of one or all of the sauces that are thoughtfully provided on each table. The hottest one in particular added a welcome zing. I’d step down a couple unless you are a big chilli fan!
I added a desert to the mix. It’s only a small menu, the chocolate peanut butter cheesecake was tempting but I wolfed a ‘Reds banana pudding’ instead. This came in a huge oval tin, layered at the base with sponge, the bananas then swam in vanilla custard, topped with grilled meringue. It was sweet and I loved it. The flame was less impressed and finished with a black coffee in a glass!
Bloggers welcome! A floodlit menu!
Bloggers welcome! A floodlit menu!
It all came to £37 for the two of us. If I’m honest I probably didn’t chose very well but have to say the burgers looked incredible and I’ll definitely be back with a gang to try one. It’s a great place to meet friends and take the kids to. The atmosphere is tremendous, the service from Sian our waitress, was enthusiastic, very friendly and efficient. Hopefully it will do well and continue to make great use of this grand old space. It’s another great reason to head over to the famous Albert Square.
Reds True BBQ
22 Lloyd Street
Albert Square
M2 5WA
0161 820 9140
albertsquare@truebarbecue.com
Eating Out Reviews

Camp and Furnace – Liverpool

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It’s term time again. For our sins, The flame and I are blessed with two, southern, grand daughters. Fresh up from the big smoke we decide to treat them and take them out for a big feed. Their city of learning is Liverpool. I decided there’s only one place to take the learned couplet – Camp and Furnace. 
‘Camp’ in this instance refers to camping and outdoor pursuits, ‘furnace’ refers to the errr…… Furnace that’s set at one end of the big room inside. 
This is a feeding hole like no other. Set in an old industrial unit in the ‘Baltic Triangle’, a good fifteen minute walk from the main metrop, this is a place that has to be seen to be believed.
The surroundings could be described as urban chic. First time round you could be forgiven for turning back, turning your map upside down or binning your google maps. Branding must be uncool round here. An old, rusty, stencilled oil drum, the only marker to suggest you have hit the spot. If you venture further into the lair the swish of an electric portal sweeps you into the spatial grounds within.

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The industrial scheme continues inside. The bar area hits first, the bar itself to the left is built of marine ply and lit with trendy metal pendants. To the right a glorious, roaring contemporary fire. Beyond the bar area you enter the grand arena, or brick warehouse whichever you prefer! It’s here where the magic begins. To the right down in the depths of a huge vault, a raging inferno fuelled by cages of logs light up the ‘furnace’, its four orange eyes providing a glowing backdrop as punters pose for snaps. Ancient, rusted ‘craneage’ and girders hide in the rafters beneath a vintage glazed roof. Lines of up cycled, trestle tables and benches, each thoughtfully lit with wine bottle candles create a truly unique and welcoming atmosphere. Our little crew have a table for four to ourselves. There are numerous parties going on, each occupying their own sub sections of the plank like dining suites.

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As it was a Sunday, the Camp sets it’s stall on providing a top notch Sunday Roast (between 1pm and 6pm). The main course is either 28-day dry-aged Lancashire Sirloin (£12.50), whole roast corn-fed chickens (£11.50 from the heart of rural Britanny) or heritage Herdwick lamb (£11.50). These all come served on wooden platters with locally sourced, seasonal vegetables. A mushroom Wellington is added for the veggies. 
It is advised to order the main event before you turn up. We went for the beef and the lamb. The chicken comes whole and looked superb, but is recommended for three. I think a hungry twosome could have down quaffed it at a push! 
There is the option for a starter as well as a desert. We decided to plough straight on for the mains but the starters sounded good, potato soup (£4) poached salmon salad (£6) or confit of lamb shoulder (£6). 
The excitement racked up as the team of raffish young waiters and waitresses marched into the arena with board after board of meat, bowls of perfect roast spuds and more bowls of buttery veg. The rather wonderful, Irish lilted, Emma kept our table fed and watered and oversaw the delivery of our splendid feed. Four thick slabs of pink sirloin and four of (less pink) lamb kept the protein intake in check, great yorkshires, great spuds, roasted carrots, buttery cabbage and crispy kale provided the carbs and greens. Considering the quantities being put out the quality was very good. A minor quibble for the flame was that the veg and meat by the time it had made its way down the room was less than hot, but for me this was remedied by the thumping great jug of hot gravy that was gifted out like steins at a beer festival.

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After the feast we opted for the two deserts. Essex girl No 1 Jess, went for the peanut butter cheesecake (£6) while Essex girl No 2 Nancy went with the flame and I for the four portion sticky toffee pudding (£12). The Cooktwit, for research purposes, was allowed a brief morsel of the cheesecake. It was very ‘peanutbuttery’ and a bit grainy in texture, but set on a great biscuit base. The toffee pudding came set in its own 12″, low slung bowl with a mug of piping hot, toffee sauce and a bowl of vanilla ice cream. It wasn’t ‘Cartmel’ sticky toffee pudding by any means, but once the hot jus had soaked in and the ice cream melted alongside it was heavenly. A great, comforting, hearty finish to a very enjoyable trough out.

As a minor aside, it is worth mentioning that it was uncomfortably cold at times. We had an industrial blast heater to keep us up to temp but as more came in we had to share and it did start to get a little uncomfortable. In winter this is not a place to take your granny for a cosy chomp! I would advise wrapping up a bit. But that is part of the fun. You can’t have an outdoor theme in industrial England and expect to lounge around in your ‘Y’ fronts!
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In summary this is a truly magical place to come with the family and friends. The Camp has some great events throughout the year. The beer festival in June looks like a date! We will definitely be back on another day to try out the normal menu. All indications suggest that will be a triumph as well. Get yourself down here, it is truly a special and has to be sampled to be believed.

Camp and Furnace
67 Greenland Street
Liverpool L1 0BY
enquiries@campandfurnace.com
(0151) 708 2890

Eating Out Reviews

The Gazelle – Menai Bridge, Anglesey

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Got a bit of a soft spot for Anglesey. Quite often nip over for a bit of camping in the summer. However, the flame and I and two others couples checked in at a beach side cottage on Red Wharf Bay for New Year. Had a belting time. However, whilst we mainly cooked ourselves we fancied a final celebratory meal. Another pal, Mr Gardner, a cove of some standing suggested we try ‘The Gazelle’.
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It’s initial attraction is it’s amazing location. It juts invitingly into the waters of the Menai Straits, directly opposite the famous Bangor pier. A glance to the right reveals the magnificent, original Menai bridge. If you look forward you get the Snowdonian mountains. Its all rather impressive. You have to negotiate a narrow track down from the ‘Beaumaris’ coast road, it’s easily missed, but it’s well worth the effort to seek out and take on. When we arrived the tide was in and a winter storm was lashing up the straits. However, a warm welcome beckoned.
The place looks to have had a fairly recent makeover and all to a good standard. There are a number of rooms. The residents lounge resplendent in red leather, the bar is homely with a good range of ales, a couple of other rooms have ornate, antique perches, all for eating in. We however, plumbed for the ‘restaurant’ bit. It is tastefully decked out with a more contemporary feel than the other rooms, light oak splashed with pastel shades and heavy, grey wicker chairs. Very pleasant it is too. It was warm as well, no mean feat given the wind and rain lashing against its modern bay windows.
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The food was good as well. A comprehensive, professionally printed menu suggested it was all standard pub fayre. It does have a specials board though and claimed most of the produce is locally sourced. It did have Menai Strait Mussels, so you can’t get more local than that! As you’d expect for an island, fish and seafood is heavily featured. Indeed the starters were either fish, mushrooms or goats cheese. Prawns, whitebait, mussels and salmon all listed.
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Mains are more varied but the party mostly went for fish, except for me, who had pork belly ribs in a homemade barbeque sauce with salad and chunky chips (£9.95). The ribs were set in their own dish on the plate. They were succulent and tasty, the sauce was sticky and lovely, definitely home made. Even the chips were great and doubled up as small mops to wipe up the excess sauce that was left.
The flame went from the specials board and had a trio of smoked salmon, trout and halibut with a well dressed salad (£11.95). I must admit cured fish is not my cup of tea, but she proclaimed all to be well and thoroughly enjoyed it. It seemed a bit sparse for £11.95 to me, but the flame was well chuffed. One of our friends had a halibut steak wrapped in spinach and pancetta with a cheese sauce, whilst another scooped up the smoked haddock fish cake which was massive.
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A few of us had deserts. My caramel apple pie was lovely but was easily surpassed by the hot apple crumble filled to the brim of the dish with hot custard. This was wolfed away with aplomb by the flame. I was allowed a spoonful and can vouch that it was comfort food personified, perfect for a cold winters eve.
The whole shebang came to £106 for six of us. We only had two courses but it was a perfect end to a great new year break.
So there it is, if you do happen to venture onto the wonderful isle of Anglesey there are some great places to visit and plenty of great pubs. I would definitely give ‘The Gazelle’ a thought if you need a decent feed in a superb location. I can imagine sat outside in summer it would be a real treat. Give it a go. We’ll be back.
The Gazelle Hotel
Glynn Garth
Menai Bridge
Isle of Anglesey
LL59 5PD
01248 713364
Eating Out Reviews

Ariete – Newton-le-Willows

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Spare a thought for my humble home town of Newton-le-Willows. A small lump of coal of maybe 20,000 souls, nestled between the great metropolis’ of Liverpool and Manchester. Famous for it’s has been rock star Rick Astley and having the first bloke ever to be killed on a railway.

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As far as gastronome is concerned it’s all a bit flat. A few decent pubs, it’s own curry yard, a phalanx of kebab shops and that’s about you’re lot. It does however, have at least one beacon of hope in Ariete, an Italian restaurant set in the oldest building on the High Street. The High Street is part of the great North/South highway known as the A49. It’s one of my favourite roads! Ian Botham went through it once on a sponsored walk. This is how good this road is. Ariete is housed in the best building on the best road.
Formerly the grand entrance to the Haydock Park Estate it provides a rather splendid facade, particularly at night when some bulbs light it up. In case you wondered Ariete is Italian for ‘Ram’.
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Inside things change a bit. Basically they have grafted a huge hangar on the back of this wonderous folly, complete with skylights and conservatory style windows. I reckon it could cope with 150 covers easy. As well as big it is high, which means the noise can bang on a bit. It’s not what you would call intimate. It sets up better for bigger parties really, but nonetheless the flame and I regularly walk down for a plate of pasta and a bottle of house red. Having said that, they have recently grafted on a ‘specials’ menu which changes pretty often, possibly weekly, so there is always something new to try.
We went in for Christmas Eve so we caught it this time on absolute top form. Completely full, the atmosphere and sense of occasion was bang on. A bottle of Italian Merlot oiled the pipes while the flame plundered a toasted muffin slathered in chicken livers, themselves spiked with chilli and herbs. She was well chuffed. I wafted into a spicy chorizo and squid stew, also set on a crouton with a wodge of rocket leaves. The squid was plentiful and well cooked, criss crossed and curling after a quick ‘shufty’ in a hot, oiled pan. It was a corking starter.
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For mains the flame had another starter! But by hokey what a starter, she was stuffed as were the peppers, with beef mince, herbs and spices. She had a ‘small’ mixed salad to accompany. I had a spaghetti with spicy meatballs. Standard fayre I would agree, but if you do want a decent feed, you can’t really beat here. The portions are stupendous. Also worth a mention, is that the garlic bread is based on a massive pizza base. No couple of slices of baguette here, It’s a meal in itself so be warned if you order one with your starter!
I finished off with a creme caramel. A light delight to finish, very nice too, freshly made on the premises that day according to eccentric host Giovanni. We have had ‘a la carte’ here and enjoyed that too. The quality and value is hard to beat. £52 for two for three rollicking  courses, wine and coffee on a Christmas Eve. Not bad in my eyes. I’m not saying you should all trek across from the foodie enclaves of Chorlton or Didsbury or any of the other Cheshire outfits that lead the way in food nearby. I would suggest however, if you ever come to the races, or find yourself trundling down the A49 when the M6 at Thelwall viaduct shuts down for a bit of wind, you could do a lot worse than check out Ariete, The Ram of Italy, you’ll get a decent feed for not much money.
Ariete
136 High St,
Newton-le-Willows
01925 291555
Eating Out Reviews

Croma – Pizzeria in Manchester

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I can’t claim to be an expert on pizza, though if I do say so myself I do cook up a mean one when I’m in the mood. Faced with a four hour trek round Manchester’s Christmas markets on a busy Sunday afternoon with three partisan PizzaExpress teenagers it was with some relief that I was able to convince the posse that there might be a better pizza gaff out there. Thankfully I was proven correct. 
Croma has been in Manchester a few years now and I have been there a few times. It is set up a side street, a stones throw away from the big Santa on Alberts Square. It’s smart enough outside, neat, neon, purple signs lighting up an understated facade. A tranche of steps lead in.
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Inside chrome (get it!) dominates along with smart lighting and foliage. Our 5pm appointment meant we swept passed the queues downstairs to our smart banquette booth that sat our scheme of seven in great comfort and style. The place was buzzing but that didn’t stop us quickly getting underway with our drinks and menus.
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We all had starters and all very nice too. The youngsters had dough balls and garlic bread. Thomas, the ten year old, decided to stick with the great little children’s menu. The terrible twins Annabel and Bethany, each thirteen were too grown up! Annabel declared her margarita pizza to be ‘serious pizza’. Bethany (a fussy eater) was foaming at the mouth with the garlic bread. Croma was clearly getting the kids vote.
The flame and I along with the big Rodgers’ went for grown up gourmet stuff. For starters I had the Melanzana Parmigiana (£4.95) which was slices of roasted aubergine baked with buffalo mozzarella, provolone cheese, parmesan, tomatoes, garlic and pine kernels, served with olive bread. It was a great start, cheesy, gooey and full of flavour. I then learned lots of the produce is local and that the wonderful olive bread was from Chorlton! How’s about that then?
The flame went for the Tuna & Black Olive Pate (£4.85) again served with great bread.
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Croma is essentially a pizzeria so that’s what I had! They have an amazing selection. They have the classics of course, but really shine on the unusual combinations. I’ve no doubt the Naples originator of the tricolour pizza would be tutting but my Aglefino pizza (£7.95) which consisted of naturally smoked haddock, leeks, a free range egg, emmenthal cheese, chopped parsley, lemon juice and creme fraiche was sensational. Great, well cooked, thin crust base with a succulent, salty, fishy topping. It didn’t have tomato in the topping but was still great. Other toppings included Peking duck and Indian chicken. You could basically have anything you want, there was even some Christmas options on the specials. I was stuck for choice.
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A great surprise was the tremendous desert selection. I am a sucker for sherry trifle and have to say it was one of the best I’ve ever had. The key lime pie and Cartmel sticky toffee pudding were close behind. One of the troop expressed mild concern that there was no cheesecake, but you can’t have everything!
The bill came to £148 including service, wine and drinks for seven. The service was attentive and pleasant. The atmosphere completely electric. Our table was dimly lit with crisp white linen and mirrored walls ensuring we were all able to get on and chat. It was a great meal out and was given the big fat thumbs up by the hard to please twineratti. 
Croma has sprouted out a bit from its Manchester base. It has other local births in Chorlton and Prestwich. It has even gone out to Edinburgh, Loughborough and Tunbridge Wells. I’d definitely look them up!
 
Manchester
1-3 Clarence Street
Albert Square
Manchester
M2 4DE
Tel: 0161 237 9799
http://www.cromapizza.co.uk
Eating Out Reviews

Byron – Proper Hamburgers – Manchester

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I work in Manchester and walk down Deansgate most days. For months now I’ve passed this strange little, yellow, corner plot called ‘Byron’. It has a sub title ‘Proper Hamburgers’. I’ve always wondered whether it was the naffest bit of branding you could imagine or the cleverest. It has a very plain typeface and shop frontage. However, the thing I have noticed, it seems to get plenty in. Lots of business types, young and old.
Manchester has had a burgeoning burger empire for some time now, sprouting mainly from its trendy Northern Quarter. Indeed I’ve already reviewed a few, ‘Almost Famous’, ‘SoLita’ and ‘Luck, Lust, Liquor and Burn’ to name but a few. They’ve all come up trumps in my book, so how would ‘Byron’ fare?

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The Byron story hails from the misspent youth of its founder Tom Byng. He ate proper burgers in America at a diner called ‘Silver Top’ in Providence, Rhode Island. He reckoned they were simple, tasty, a bit messy, but made with good quality meat with classic adornments; some lettuce, tomato, red onion, and maybe a slice of cheese or bacon. He opened up his first gaff In London in 2007, with the mantra to do a simple thing well, and do it properly. A laudable aim. The beef is good from Scotland, minced fresh every day, cooked medium so it’s pink, juicy and succulent.
I ventured in as part of a fifteen man posse (although there was some girls as well!). We had to split up to fit in, but we were quickly seated and it wasn’t long before an ice cold can of Brewdog Dead Pony pale ale was in hand.
The decor is simple. Yellow is the dominant hue. Exposed concrete, exposed containment (painted yellow), old school chairs, pastel tables and mustard banquettes complete the look. I suppose it is meant to shout industrial, up cycling, trendy, in one easy swoop. It’s pleasant enough.
We all chose from the simple menu, burgers with various extras. I plumbed in for the ‘Byron’ burger. Plain burger with crispy bacon, lettuce, onion and melted cheese. One of the team had a veggie burger.

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We ordered a shed load of extra fries, chips and onion rings. I have to say my burger was superb. This was a view shared by the whole team, including the veggie! My burger was indeed served pink and was succulent and juicy as per the ‘Byron’ mission statement. It wasn’t cheap (£9.60 for the burger) but then this trend for quality burgers does come at a price. The bun was soft and soaked up all the luciousness that oozed from the centrepiece.
We were served by a smiling and enthusiastic young waitress. Nothing was too much trouble. All in all, couldn’t fault it. A simple menu, quality craft ales, great ingredients, good atmosphere. There are thirty four ‘Byron’s’ kicking about, only five outside London so you will have to hunt round a bit, but if you find one give it a  go.
Eating Out Reviews

Parkers Arms – Newton in Bowland – Part 2

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I can’t believe it, the latest trip to the Parkers Arms was even better than last time shock! 
The Flame and myself enjoyed a wonderful Sunday lunch a few months back. When faced with where to meet a couple of Yorkshire foodies I made the call to get them into the heart of Lancashire with the promise of some top home cooking. So no pressure then! I needn’t have worried. Suffice to say Stosie, AJ and the team turned up trumps once again.
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We met in Clitheroe for a stroll round the old town. During the time there I was constantly pressed and niggled that lunch better be good. We wound up through the pretty village of Waddington and over the moors before the now familiar sight of The Parkers Arms hove into view. I had booked online for four. We were shown straight to our bay window table by a young, fresh faced slip of a lass. Our table groaned by a simmering log fire. Candles flickered. Two pints of ‘Hen Harrier’ ensured the male half of the scheme were bang in fettle. Wine and water put the other half at ease. Starting to feel at home it was left to AJ, the genial host, to put our slippers on and order our grub. 
Just to explain AJ is the front of house part of the trio that make the Parkers Arms what it is. Stosie and Katie head up the foodie bit. It is a winning team. AJ, spectacled, with a full shock of curly locks, ‘Wallace & gromit’ cardie/cordrouy trousers and broad Lancashire brogue is arguably the friendliest and most eccentric host you’ll ever meet. His explanations of the wares on offer are a delight and had our guests chuckling like new born babies. He convinced our guest Julie to have the pheasant as ‘you can have beef anytime’.
We had three menus to go at! The Sunday special, the seasonal specials and the normal menu. It all adds up to a wonderful Lancashire feast. We pretty much all went from the seasonal menu. 
The Flame had a wonderful slab of game terrine. I have never been allowed to taste a finer one. The Yorkshire cove wolfed into a three cheese soufflé with a cheese sauce. It was proper cheesy. The Yorkshire cove considered it highly beneficial to his overall wellbeing. Me and the Yorkshire lass had probably the smoothest, crabbiest, crab parfait you will ever imagine. It was sublime.
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Mains were a revelation. Between us we had either pheasant or venison and pork pie.
The pheasant came two ways. The breast had been rolled into a ballotine whilst the leg was encased in a pasty pastry. Set on seasonal veg with a creamy, buttery mash. I would argue this was the best dish I have had in years. It ticked all my boxes. My morsel of venison pie was gorgeous. The cove and the flame went away very happy with their pasty. It looked good as well with the hot, rail sleeper chips on a slim plate.
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Despite being satiated we decided (for research purposes) to have a go at a sweet! Going back to my childhood I ventured into a plate full of Victoria plum sponge pudding with custard and cream. Took some doing but golly it was good. The flame plumbed into Katie’s wet Nellie. Fruit, mince, nuts, treacle, it just has to be good.
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It really was a tremendous meal. Great company in a fabulous environment. Sat overlooking the countryside from our fireside table was a delight. What we really needed was a room so we could have stayed! A couple of cigars and a brandy might have worked as well but we had to drive away into the evening chill. I can imagine with snow on the hills and the Christmas tree lights on it would make the perfect Christmas card.
Our Yorkshire troop texted later that it was the best meal they had in years and thanked us for taking them there. They will definitely be back. And so will we. And so should you all.
 
Parkers Arms
Newton-in-Bowland
Nr Clitheroe
Lancashire
BB7 3DY
 
01200 446236

 

Eating Out Reviews

SoLita – Northern Quarter – Manchester

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Stop Press – This could be the best burger I’ve ever had!

I’ve been hearing a lot of good things about SoLita for months now. I think SoLita is short for South of Little Italy? The twitteratti has been encouraging discerning flollowers to try out this little Mexican gem in Manchester’s northern Quarter. The problem has been I’ve never known where it was! 
However, a couple of weeks back I stumbled on it whilst searching out a decent pint on the way home from work. Having memorised its location I ventured out once again to sample its delights.
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It operates from a corner plot, tucked away from the bright lights of the city. The munching takes place on two floors, a large, red, banquette, diner style awaits below while a small, intimate bistro greets you from the street complete with funky, cartoon wall graphics!
As it was only tea time on a Wednesday eve I was able to acquire a high poseur table slot. Perfect for a lonesome soul, (the flame was otherwise engaged). The menu, printed in black on white acts as your place setting. Perfect for someone who had forgot his readers! There was also a large blackboard shouting out the specials in coloured chalk. There is plenty of choice here. A big feature is their use of an Inka grill which uses charcoal to provide heat and barbeque flavours. A whole host of fish, meaty steaks, chicken and sausages can be had off this, but I went for one of the specialty burgers. 
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I went for the Catalan burger (£10.90) with sweet potato chips. Boy oh boy it was sensational. A Catalan burger comes with the obligatory melted cheese, that goes without saying, but it then comes with large slices of chorizo sausage, roasted peppers and a roasted tomato allioli. The combination provided a wonderful, juicy, spicy mess. For a bit of crunch I opted to pay an extra £1 for the sweet potato chips, which were slightly less successful, but hey, a minor quibble against the main event.
I was only in for a quick snack, but I have to say I will be back for more. I had to leave without tasting my own tiramisu (see blackboard). The menu is wide and varied, the atmosphere and service is warm, friendly and utterly beguiling. And to add to that they even served a decent ale! I washed this Spanish delight down with a ‘Top hop Hornbeam local 4.2%!’ Result.

SoLita
37 Turner St, Manchester
0161 839 2200

 

 

Eating Out Reviews

Mr Coopers House and Garden – Manchester

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It finally happened. I bagged a table at Simon Rogan’s Mr Coopers House and Garden in Manchester. Ever since it was announced that Simon was coming to Manchester the buzz about town was palpable and I sensed that finally I can grace a Simon Rogan restaurant.
L’Enclume, Simon’s more famous Michelin starred restaurant in Cartmel has been top of my list for a couple of years now. The closest I’ve been was when I pressed my face against the window like a stray waif when I went camping in the Lakes last year. I’ve still got ‘The Trip’, with Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon, on the hard drive to give me a fix. You may recall this was a comedic, ‘gastronomique’, tour of Northern eateries. L’Enclume was featured in one episode along with ‘The Inn At Whitewell’ and others.

 

Mr Coopers (for short!) is camped in The Midland Hotel, arguably Manchester’s swankiest and classiest gaff. It is the second and most accessible restaurant in the complex. He opened ‘The French‘, a true, gastro, tour de force last year to high and universal acclaim. It remains Manchester’s best chance in decades of attaining a Michelin star.

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The Flame and I crept in on a calm Monday evening. Traditionally a graveyard shift in the world of hairdressing and feeding people. We entered to a gentle and perfectly pleasant buzz. We were in early doors as we were heading round the corner to see Scottish Rock Goddess KT Tunstall.

 

As the title suggests the room is divided between the house and the garden! We sat in the garden. This is easily identified by the tree and living, green wall. The overall effect of the room though is colonial opulence. It couldn’t be much else really set in the Midland with its high ornate ceilings and crystal chandeliers. Browns and reds swathe the furniture, although a natty sage green marks out the garden furniture. It is beautifully done.

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We chose our meal from the ‘house menu’ three courses for £23 (5.00 to 6.30pm). There are three starters, three mains and three deserts to chose. Our rather splendid maître de informed us that this menu changes every month.
The flame started with the smoked salmon belly with barbeque beets, violet mustard and golden raisins. She loved it. I’m not a great lover of smoked salmon but the sliver I was allowed was very tasty and had a lovely soft texture.
I’ve always wanted to use the word ‘uncious’ and finally I can use it to describe my molasses glazed pork belly, borlotti beans cassoulet with crushed avocado. My thick finger of pork belly simply melted in the mouth. It washed down beautifully with the slightly spicy beans and cool avocado mousse.
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The mains were equally sensational. My spiced salt cod, parsnip purée, spinach and raspberry vinaigrette was superb. The cod was cooked to perfection. It took me back to the original Rick Stein seafood programmes. He said fish should flake and be translucent. My cod hit that mark, it flaked and ‘transluced’ (see pic top right below), the salt and the spice sublime.
The flame had the butter poached chicken, chorizo stuffed peppers, pok choi and sweet potato, drizzled in a chorizo jus. I’m not sure I’ve ever tasted better chicken. The small finger nail piece I was allowed to try was incredible. It could be that the flame won dish of the day with this!
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We both finished with Pumpkin pie, chocolate and nut granola with treacle ice cream. Yes, it was as good as it reads. The ice cream in particular was a treat. It was great with the crunchy flakes of granola.
After the meal we left feeling very satisfied. The bill with a couple of large glasses of rather splendid Spanish red and some coffees came to £70. A touch over the top for a Monday tea perhaps but a thoroughly enjoyable couple of hours. If you’re a T-bone steak, chips and onion rings man, this isn’t for you. This is exquisite, elegant dining, the accent firmly on flavour and great service. We will be back, probably on a busier night when I’m sure the atmosphere with more covers in will really pep up the heat.
Give it a try.
Mr Coopers House and Garden
The Midland Hotel,
Peter Street
Manchester
M60 2DS
0161 932 4128
Eating Out Reviews

Luck Lust Liquor and Burn – Manchester

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It’s a blustery, cold, November, Sunday morn. The Cook Twit has succumbed to a virulent bout of ‘manflu’. Such is its ferocity that full blown ebola has taken hold. I doubt this blog will get finished. The flame, unable to accompany me on this trip, calls me a wimp and tells me to get on with it. I venture aimlessly into Manchester. A protracted visit to ‘The Hungry Gecko’ in Chorlton is curtailed as the local trolley buses are off due to ‘engineering works’. 

The Cook Twit is nothing if not a resourceful soul. When faced with such adversity, he brushes himself down, he doesn’t quibble, he quickly gets himself into a hostelry for an alcoholic restorative to ponder his next move. A pint of ‘The Governor’ quickly puts the old fish oil into gear. Never one to shirk new technology, google maps reckons I am a mere 170 yards away from ‘Luck, Lust, Liquor and Burn’. Handsome words have been scribed regarding the qualities of this Northern Quarter stalwart. Not least for its kind rescue act of the burger joint ‘Almost Famous’ whose burgers Liquor and Burn now feature.
Liquor and Burn (for short!) is housed in a quaint, corner plot close to the former market gates in the High Street in Manchester’s trendy Northern Quarter. 
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In order to keep in trend it is not posh. Decor is strictly hip, up cycled, mis matched wooden furniture. The soundtrack is Marvin Gayeish and at a pleasant volume. The vibe therefore is very relaxed and the flashing young blades behind the bar made the cook twit very welcome. No real ale of course but a dark, Brooklyn lager kept the pipes moistened. The menu is printed in black on white A4. Courses have flash titles with hip tag lines, letting you know what you’re in for. Chicken Lickin, Beef Smackdown and Triple Nom just some of the names.

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Tucked away high on the left was my corking starter. A pint of shrimp and squid for £7.50. These exquisite pieces of succulent seafood came hot and deep fried in a light salted and BBQ batter. They came with two dips, one a hot sauce, and one a sundried tomato sauce with pieces of fresh lime to squeeze over. I have to say this was one of the best starters I’ve had in a long while. The effects of the death ridden strain of Ebola was subsiding fast.
For the main I had ‘Fire Alarm Chilli’ for £8.50. Again well presented in its own cast iron skillet set in a terracotta dish with tacos on the side. It came smothered in various sauces and creams (cheese and sour cream) which I may have preferred on the side. The chilli itself was delicious though. Very tasty with a nice heat. It had pulled beef, bacon and chorizo in there which all conspired to give a wonderful smoky flavour. I resisted the salted caramel brownie for afters.
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All in all a very pleasant hour and a half for the cook twit. Perched on my high stool by the window I had a great view of the bar in action. Obviously being a Sunday afternoon it was probably a little quieter than say a Friday night. I’m sure the action revs up a bit then, along with the volume of the music, but it had a great atmosphere and the service was fine. 
 
Manflu? What manflu!
 
Luck Lust Liquor and Burn
100-102 High Street, Northern Quarter
Manchester
0161 832 8644