Category Archives: Eating Out Reviews

At restaurants, pubs and other fine eateries

Salvi’s Cucina – Manchester

Possibly the best Italian meal I’ve ever had?

Salvis Cucina (kitchen in Italian) is a new, rather understated eatery that has sprung up in the nondescript concrete avenue of John Dalton Street in Manchester. I sportingly took The Flame there as recompense for a forthcoming road trip with a couple of gentlemen friends to watch a bunch of rock debutants in North London outpost Enfield.

The outside
The outside

Salvis sprang forth in the mind as one or two local work pals have raved over their pre existing ‘Mozzarella Bar’ down the other end of town in the ill fated Corn Exchange Triangle. Salvis are an Italian dynasty that has purveyed quality Italian ingredients in Manchester for a few years now. And after our meal I wholeheartedly suggest they continue.
Decor is rather modest, the odd flash of colour from a strategically placed painted chair. The open kitchen dominates, the hardworking chefs plunder their skills amongst a plethora of shaving, slicing and turning machinery. It’s a pleasing sight.

Menu, colourful chairs, the kitchen, the specials roll
Menu, colourful chairs, the kitchen, the specials roll

Our table was preordained after I had ventured in earlier in the day. Our table was set right up against the semi height glass frontage. As this was a sunny eve our table was streaked with fresh sunlight and fresh(ish) Manchester air. It was wonderful. Our delightful Italian waitress plied us with water and wine and took our order after explaining the specials in the most delicate Italianate English. To further help the specials are scrawled on a large brown paper roll. Nice touch.
Our antipasti soon homed into view. Mine first, ‘Cappachio Di Nanzo Rucola E Grana’ (beef, rocket, Parmesan, drizzled with olive oil, balsamic and lemon £8.50). It was wonderful, ‘waffer’ thin slices of raw beef with a cheesy, oily, herby coat. As a treat I did ask if I could try some smoked mozzarella as I was intrigued. Rather than the slither I anticipated I was graced with a fully dressed ball in a separate bowl. It was a bit too much to eat in one lump but I loved the smokey rind, definitely one to bear in mind.

The antipasti
The antipasti

The flames starter was a bit of a strange one. Entitled ‘Timbalo Di Venture Con formaggio Di Capra E Pesto’ it was subtitled as mixed grilled vegetables stacked with goats cheese and topped with pesto (£8). It turned out to be three deep fried orbs set on a base of dressed leaves and a super homemade pesto. It wasn’t what was expected but it was still delicious and was gleefully mopped up. The grilled veg were merely slithers mixed in with the cheese and deep fried.
We both went for simple pasta dishes for mains but even these were a step above the norm. Mind you I could argue they should have been at £11.50 and £13 a plate. It isn’t cheap, but ye gods they were both sensational. The flames ‘Pasta Con Pesche Spada, Melenzane, Scamorza E Pinoli’ (swordfish, aubergine, pine nuts and smoked mozzarella) probably shaded it. The pasta itself beautifully cooked and seasoned. The tastes and textures sublime.

The mains and the tiramisu
The mains and the tiramisu

I had a pasta off the specials board. ‘Pasta alla Salvis Whit Salsiccia et asparigi’ (sausage and asparagus). Finished in a tomato sauce (or ‘sowse’ as our waitress called it) it was still a simple pasta dish but somehow it just tasted so much better than most I’ve ever had before. I can’t really explain why but it was. You’ll just have to try yourself!
I as usual I rounded off with a desert for research purposes. I run a personal competition to find a tiramisu to match my childhood version as provided by Culcheth heroes ‘Don Luighi’. I think I have found a joint top version. It seemed a bit too thick at first but deep down the ‘V’ shaped flask the moist, boozy, creamy loveliness came bounding through. A triumph at any price but at £4.50 it had no equal.

Smoked mozzarella
Smoked mozzarella

Whilst us chaps all know brownie points have ceased to be legal tender in most relationships there is no doubt Salvis worked its magic on The flame. The Gentlemans weekend continued without a hitch and there is no question we will be back. Going forward I can see this being one of our favourite staple restaurants. Highly recommended.

19 John Dalton St
Manchester
M2

Home

Salthouse Tapas – Liverpool

Yet another northern torrential downpour threatened to dampen the hungry spirit as The Cooktwit and The Flame headed East on one of Northern Rails, 1980’s, heritage trolley carts, such is the downtrodden quality of 21st century transport when heading to the Liverbased metrop of Liverpool. We were heading to highly recommended gastrogaff ‘Salthouse Tapas’. The place is sited close to the mega retail emporium ‘Liverpool One’, a sort of posh, newer version of Manchester’s Arndale. In truth The Flame is not a great fan of the small plate, informal dining experience known as ‘tapas’. So given that this was my choice, it was with some slight trepidation that we ventured along the rain soaked streets. To be fair a late burst of evening sun had lightened the mood. We even skipped the last few yards!

The curved frontage
The curved frontage

From the outside things are promising. A lofty, Victorian structure, complete with curved frontage and contemporary, bold font signage. A roped off alfresco area sits out front. The afternoon’s inclemency meant that only a few random smokers were braving it when we arrived. We stepped up into the fray to be confronted by a riotous din. The bar hits first, a table of eight drinkers were seemingly well into the final throws of stupor as they shrieked their conversations. It wasn’t the best start. To be fair within seconds a lean, bearded chap had ushered us to our table for two. The noise seemed to continue and reverberate throughout the set. We quickly realised this is how it is. Thankfully having asked the flame for her hand in marriage thirty years ago, I knew I wouldn’t be required to go down on one knee and whisper sweet nothing’s tonight. I spared a thought for any hapless young buck who did have it in mind though. I doubt his future betrothed would have heard a word he was saying! Still mustn’t quibble, Anna (our initial waitress) had us settled and a Mango Margerita and a Campari were soon winging across. Flipping lovely they were too.

The interior
The interior

As is the norm nowadays a quick survey of the decor confirmed that we were indeed in a trendy place. The obligatory old school chairs were strewn around the place. The place settings doubling up as your menu (a la Beef and Pudding, Solita, to name but a few). I must say I quite like this idea. Keeps everything simple and as a bonus I could read it without me specs. We were downstairs in the main room which was filling up nicely. A mezzanine above seemed full as well. The atmosphere was building.

The menu
The menu

 

Quirky loo sign
Quirky loo sign

We ordered a bottle of Malbec (£16.95) and a shared platter of charcuterie to start (Monroyo Serrano ham, loin, chorizo, salchichon, bead and olive oil £9.95). We had developed a bit of a habit of ordering this in Sicily recently and this brought it back. If I’m honest this was better. Delivered on a table tennis bat it looked and tasted wonderful.

Wine, charcuterie, mango Margerita
Wine, charcuterie, mango Margerita

The reason(s) the flame has reservations on tapas is several fold 1) she doesn’t want me dipping in, sharing her food across the table (as if – Ed) and 2) she doesn’t like having food on her own as tapas doesn’t always arrive together as in a normal three course dinner. We ordered two dishes each after the ham platter. Bang on cue, within a few minutes the two dishes ordered by the flame turned up. In fairness though they were both very good. First up The roast hake fillet with Serrano ham, fennel and sherry jus (£6.50). The picture doesn’t do it justice, a soap bar sized slab of pure white beautifully cooked fish bathed in a sweet sauce with fennel julienne layered on top. I managed a morsel and it was delightful. The flame loved it and declared dish of the day. The second dish was the hot smoked salmon with a Bloody Mary salad (£5.50). Not my cup of tea to be honest but bang on for the flame. Despite not being ‘hot’ as such she declared it a winner.

Salmon, hake and lamb
Salmon, hake and lamb

Then came my first choice ‘Roasted lamb rump with broad beans, olives and red peppers’ (£7.50). This was superb. The lamb perhaps a shade more well done than I would have preferred, but nonetheless the combination of colours, the sweet, slightly crisp lamb (on the outside) and the olive oil dressing made for a stunning dish. It wouldn’t have looked out of place at Mr Coopers. My second dish was the ‘Galician Octopus with sautéed new potatoes, lemon and paprika’ (£5.50). Lots of smokey, paprika flavours. I would have liked a few tentacles on there to give it a bit more drama and look a bit more like octopus, but a lovely dish. I did notice quite a lot of ‘Malaga Fried Fish with lemon and aioli’ coming out. Looked like you got a decent portion and looked great on its plank.

Octopus, chicken chorizo sliders
Octopus, chicken chorizo sliders

After a few minutes rest and deliberation we decided to plumb for another quick savoury dish. We noticed the special of ‘chicken and chorizo sliders’ (£5.50) were flying out as well. As there was two per portion we had one each. Miniature brioche bun with mini chicken schnitzel, chorizo sausage and cheese skewered together in a neat little package. Hot, well cooked and very tasty. A lovely final tapas. As ever I ventured into the desert section and wolfed down a ‘Roasted Rhubarb Pavlova with Chantilly cream and passion fruit syrup’ (£4.95). Oh boy, I like my ‘meringuey’ deserts and so this hit the spot no problem, sweet, sticky and tangy. A lovely end. A decent brew mopped up and left us to pay the £75 all in.

Pavlova and coffee. A lovely end
Pavlova and coffee. A lovely end

I love El Rincon in Manchester. You can’t beat the Spanish atmosphere, but I’d have to say the presentation and quality of food at the Salthouse was better, and for similar money. There’s still plenty on the menu to try so I reckon we’ll be back.

A romantic stroll afterwards
A romantic stroll afterwards

We went for a romantic evening stroll down the Liverpool front afterwards. What better way to help get the digestive juices flowing? We had a great night. We will defiantly be giving Liverpool another go. I wonder where to next? Salt House Charcuterie and Tapas 1 Hanover Street Liverpool 0151 706 0092 http://www.salthousetapas.co.uk

Gorilla – Manchester

Always had a soft spot for Gorilla in Manchester. Set across from former ‘grab a granny haunt’ The Ritz, it is the natural port of call when The Cooktwit indulges in one of his other passions – rock music. Having been a nightclub, The Ritz has now morphed into a fully fledged, live rock venue. If a former rock titan has seen fit to grace The Ritz on their way down from the lofty heights of success, The Cooktwit and his chums have been there ready and waiting, air guitar in hand.

 

Trendy, The Ritz, trendy roof and upstairs diner,
Trendy, The Ritz, trendy roof and upstairs diner,

 

Gorilla is also a hop, skip and a jump from Oxford Road rail station, meaning our merry throng can be on the train home with ‘The Final Countdown’ encore still ringing in our ears.
However, a little ritual has developed, the Gorilla bar provides a thirsty rock troupe with good beer and has even given way to provide a pre gig snack in the shape of a trusty burger, shaped and seasoned by the fair hand of Chorlton butchering legend WH Frost. I have ventured these delights on to the palate of a good few of the ‘hoi poloi’ and have all agreed these are the work of an angel. They are juicy, pink and sized correctly for a fine feed.

The cocktail bar
The cocktail bar

In the guise of ‘Billy no mates’ I have on several occasions ventured alone into Gorilla. I’ve always found it to be a friendly and welcoming den. The bar tenders, encapsulated behind their three sided counter, often festooned in either facial hair, tats or piercings, or all three, are never anything other than friendly, efficient, jolly and professional. Indeed it’s quite a treat to watch them conjuring up their extensive cocktails.
But it was a different occasion this time. This time I trooped in with The Flame. We had just been up the road to The Opera House to watch an afternoon performance of ‘Rock Of Ages’. It was basically a spectacular romp through all the 80’s hair metal tunes you can think of, coupled to a series of jokes and raunchy dance routines. Indeed being a gentleman of a certain age and feeling somewhat hot under the collar, it was critical to reach Gorilla (the nearest bar) to cool the shock of seeing over a dozen power ballads and a veritable phalanx of near naked ladies clasped to the gills in suspenders belts! We arrived just after five and bagged a table right by the window facing out to the infamous Ritz. An American ‘Red Hook’ Pale ale was quickly acquired to apply the ‘cooling’!

The menu
The menu

The Gorilla decor ticks all the trendy bar boxes. In fairness to Gorilla I reckon they wrote the trendy bar book. Unmatched, up cycled furniture, craft beer, industrial lighting, exposed ceilings, retro branding, food served on wooden planks, plenty of organic, veggie, lentily stuff on the menu. The menu itself, along with a vintage drink booklet, is thoughtfully printed on lined paper with an old ‘typewriter’ font. So the trendy bar boxes all ticked, it’s all here and I think its great, and thankfully so did The Flame.
As great as the burgers are I decided to have a change this time. I went for a simple chargrilled half a chicken (£12). It had been marinated in thyme, garlic and lemon and I have to say without any doubt this was the finest piece of chicken I have had in years, if not ever. To say it was succulent, moist and tasty is not really doing it justice but it’s all I can think of. It came with a handful of watercress, on a plank, with two wonderful dips. A garlic mayo one and a chimmichurri (herby, olive oily) one, both very nice. I had some fries on the side (£3).

The chargrilled chicken, dips, chamoula kebab, the lot
The chargrilled chicken, dips, chamoula kebab, the lot

The Flame had a Chermoula Chicken Kebab (£10) which was toasted in an African spice rub, it came with a puy lentil, tomato, cucumber, and green herb salad, harissa yoghurt and a grilled flat bread. She had a roasted squash side to keep it company. Though I say so myself it looked the business and was absolutely bang on to how The Flame likes her food. She was well chuffed. We swapped a little bit. To be fair even she admitted my chicken was best, but I had half a wrap with all the trimmings and it was heavenly. All in all two great mains.
As is the norm I was forced to have a desert for research purposes, so I had the pecan pie and whipped cream (£4.50) while the flame had a standard black coffee in a mug. The pie was ‘delish’ although the base was a little tough and needed a good hacking with a fork. The bill came to £44.60 for the two of us with the drinks.

Pecan pie and beer
Pecan pie and beer

I think we all know Manchester has plenty of gourmet burger outfits who all do a grand job, but spare a thought for Gorilla. As I mentioned I’ve had quite a few here and they have been consistently superb. Judging by the number of them being carried aloft from the kitchen they are still hitting the spot. So there you have it, another recommendation, Gorilla it is!

Gorilla
54-56 Whitworth Street
Manchester
M1 5WW
http://www.thisisgorilla.com
0161 407 0301

War Of The Roses – Lancashire v Yorkshire :-)

It’s just a jape, don’t worry, nothing too serious. Let me explain.

Last year The Flame and I beckoned friends across the border from Yorkshire to enjoy some Lancastrian hospitality. Yours truly tasked with organising the binge played his ace. He tripped the team into the beautiful Trough of Bowland and set up a Sunday afternoon sesh in The Parkers Arms. Full details of the sumptuous scran are already available elsewhere on the blog. It was a triumphant scheme, Charlie The Greek and his lovely wife Julie were bowled over and considered it the best meal they had in years.
Last week a return leg was organised. The Yorkshire troop were convinced that a repeat performance could be arranged. The Cooktwit decided to run a friendly competition, could Yorkshire overcome the lofty bar that had been set by Lancashire’s Bowland crew?

Parkers Arms, The Cross Keys
Parkers Arms, The Cross Keys

The planned set up was to quaff and stuff on Saturday night at The Cross Keys in Leeds and then round off with a Sunday lunch at The Roebuck in Otley. First off it was into the up and coming trendy enclave of the Leeds granary wharf basin. Saturday night at The Cross Keys was Yorkshires first effort to lever the crown. Set in a run of terracing it has been spruced from the front with the obligatory tin of Farrow and Ball. And rather pleasant it looks too. It didn’t disappoint inside either. Trad gastro pub fittings downstairs with a swirling, rickety staircase up to the dining room above. A pint of Kirkstall ‘North Prototype’, a light, golden ale soon had The Cook Twit settled and raring for his Yorkshire feed.

Crab parfait, cheese soufflé - Parkers, Squid, hens egg and asparagus - Cross Keys
Crab parfait, cheese soufflé – Parkers, Squid, hens egg and asparagus – Cross Keys

I opened at The Keys with pan fried squid, black pudding, beef dripping croutons with a lemon emulsion! Whilst the flame chipped in with a glorious deep fried hens egg on fresh asparagus. I wasn’t sure about the croutons as they had a strong taste of the oil. The hens egg worked well, it spurned its yolk over the greens right on cue.

In comparison at The Parkers we recalled a sublime crab parfait and a three cheese soufflé, both crafted and presented with aplomb.

Starters : Lancashire 8/10 Yorkshire 7/10

Pheasant, venison pasty - Parkers, Hanger Steak, Mutton pie - Cross Keys, Roebuck
Pheasant, venison pasty – Parkers, Hanger Steak, Mutton pie – Cross Keys, Roebuck

For the main event I’ve had to bring a selection of the best from Yorkshire to compete with Lancashire. According to our Canadian waitress Jen, The Crosskeys menu changes almost daily depending on what has been acquired from the area. A laudable aim I’m sure you’ll agree. However, out of eight dishes, three were pig based, two were veggie, which left us a little short on variety.
I had the hanger steak on Saturday night, a cut I’ve only read about before. It came rare and covered with two bone marrow butter discs. The butter was used in small doses to add further flavour and moisture to what was a decent steak. For Sunday lunch The Roebuck pub in Otley served up a minted, mutton pie which I’d have to say was pushing hard against the Great Northern Pie Co efforts that I occasionally imbibe as a treat. It came with a lovely gravy to set it off. Given the rabbit pie that I originally ordered had run out it was a cracking back up. The waitress pointed out that they had the rabbits but had not turned them into pies yet!
Sadly for Yorkshire all this had to stack up against Stosie’s boned pheasant done two ways, the leg in a pasty the breast rolled in a ballotine. A good effort from Yorkshire but….

Mains : Lancashire 10/10 Yorkshire 8/10

Plum sponge, Wet Nellie - Parkers, Coffee treat, sticky berry fool - Roebuck, Cross Keys
Plum sponge, Wet Nellie – Parkers, Coffee treat, sticky berry fool – Roebuck, Cross Keys

Despite being absolutely rammed The Cook Twit (purely for research purposes) stepped up to the plate and devoured a desert on Saturday night and Sunday lunch. The Cross Keys put up a strange but nonetheless tasty offering of sticky toffee berry fool. Essentially a glass bowl of sticky toffee pudding swimming in a berry compote with berries on top. It was too much really. Could have been a smaller portion with some ice cream. The Roebuck presented some real quality. Labelled as ‘coffee sweet treats’ it turned out to be a coffee with a selection of four of the deserts. An Eton mess, sliver of lemon tart, chocolate Ganesh and a sensational local banana ice cream. I managed to take down the lemon and the ice cream but got stawed with the rest.
The Parkers tipped up with a Victorian plum sponge, and it’s famous wet Nellie. Two stonking deserts. It’s a close call but I think Lancashire seals it again. The Roebucks offer nearly taking it.

Sweets : Lancashire 8/10. Yorkshire 7/10

Hen Harrier, Northern Prototype, Saltaire
Hen Harrier, Northern Prototype, Saltaire

Service and surroundings both hit the rustic mark. Open fires at The Parkers, whilst tudor beams support The Cross Keys. All three pubs offered quality real ale. As you would expect The Parkers Arms opened its account with a Bowland effort called Hen Harrier. A lovely golden ale, but I’d have to say the Yorkshire twins offered the Kirkstall brew and then one called ‘Saltaire’. Both were absolutely superb, light session ales that I could have quaffed all day. Yorkshire steals the ale comp.

Beer : Lancashire 7/10 Yorkshire 9/10

So there you have it Lancsahire 33/40, Yorkshire 31/40 a splendid effort. A word to The Cross Keys and The Roebuck it’s no disgrace finishing behind The Parkers Arms. There’s an experienced team there serving amazing food.
We had a great time in Leeds and we certainly ate and drank well. We would definately go back to both places. They are both on our radar. I notice today there is chicken on the menu at The Cross Keys. The Flame would have been a little happier.

Parkers Arms
Newton-in-Bowland
Nr Clitheroe
Lancashire
BB7 3DY
01200 446236
http://www.parkersarms.co.uk

The Cross Keys
107 Water Lane, leeds LS11 5WD
Tel: 0113 243 3711
http://www.the-crosskeys.com

The Roebuck Pub
Roebuck Terrace
Otley
West Yorkshire
LS21 2EY
Telephone: 01943 463063
http://www.Roebuckpub.co.uk

Splendid Sausage Company – Manchester

It’s Friday, it’s raining, I’m carousing the alleyways of Manchester, the objective, something, quick and tasty to keep the cook twit ticking along until the toil of honest graft (you work in an office! – Ed) switches into a torrent of unbridled wonderlust that heralds a new weekend.

Hark, what have we here? It’s the old Jack Spratt gaff with a new sign. It’s now called ‘The Splendid Sausage Company’. I wonder if it is splendid? Let’s find out. I gingerly headed in alone. There wasn’t many people in. A sprightly young waitress, decked in black, with a large white moustache emblazoned across her chest, bound to my rescue. Still doubting whether this was a good move I asked to see the menu. The young blade quickly explained that what we sell here are Gourmet sausages, locally produced as well. I was made to feel rather special and so I thought why not? I nestled onto a small table by the door and ordered a diet coke (Well we don’t want to overdo it do we?).

A Moustache  and an OSB banquette
A Moustache and an OSB banquette

As much as I liked the Jack Spratt grub the decor was a little strange to be honest. The bits of foliage that used to straggle round the large front windows have gone. It would appear the red paint shop has done well. Most of the walls get the treatment along with sporadic members of the chair department. The old banquettes down the left have now been clad in (wait for this) ‘Orientated Strand Board’ or OSB, (I checked this up at B&Q!) to limited effect. The statement piece of the new set is the moustache specials board, the joke moustache seemingly the splendid sausages playful marketing tag. Whilst still on the decor a little bird tells me the red ceiling in the ladies loo is quite something! All in all it looks jolly enough and suits the mood and the menu.

The loo ceiling! (Library pic)
The loo ceiling! (Library pic)

And so to the menu!. Let’s not beat about the bush it sells hot dogs so it’s a simple affair. The first side (of the two sided sugar paper print out) explains the routine you need to go through to enhance your hot dog experience. 1) chose your sausage, of which there are ten, including a veggie one. They seem to build up from the humble pork sausage up to a spicy one via a bit of Spain, France and Morocco. 2) from there you add two toppings. Alternatively if your a bit lazy and you can’t be bothered choosing, side two of the tablet quotes some custom built combinations (I think you mean ‘combos’, get down with the kids – Ed) with names like ‘Danger Dog’ and ‘The King’. Rather like an ‘Almost Famous’ menu you then get numbers by the side, like 8.5 and 9. Sadly these are not marks out of ten. A short inquiry with one of the mustachioed crew revealed these numbers represent the price in pounds sterling! £9 for a hot dog!

The simple menu
The simple menu

I went for the Spanish version which contained peppers and sun dried tomatoes. I topped it with caramelised onions and spicy red and green peppers. I then lashed on some PB mustard for an extra edge. I washed it down with my can of coke complete with straw! The whole ensemble complete with the now obligatory brioche bun, came resplendent in its own plastic basket (another nod to Almost Famous, are they related?). If I’m brutally honest a hot dog would be pretty far down my list of gourmet food. But to be fair it was pretty good as hot dogs go. A far cry from the rubbery fairground version. The sausage was nice and spicy, the toppings plentiful and tasty.

The Spanish Dog
The Spanish Dog

The bill total was £9. Seven for the dog, two for the coke. Was it worth £9? I’m struggling a bit there. It was all over in a few minutes. The desert menu looked good though and I understand it gets a bit more grown up later in the day selling decent cocktails. Would I go again? I may try a Danger Dog but I think that would be it for me. I think its one for the kids this. It did fill up while I was eating and was pretty much full just after one o clock so it seems to be catching the imagination. So good luck to it I say, keep the dogs barking!

the splendid sausage company
unit c
11 st james’ square
john dalton street
manchester
m2 6wh

http://www.splendidsausages.co.uk

Beef and Pudding – Manchester

“No puddings were harmed in the making of this blog”.

I had to start with this, ever since the twitteratti declared ‘Beef and Pudding’ as the hot ticket in town images of the now infamous ‘Beef and Barbon Fell venison suet pudding’ have graced the timelines of foodies far and wide. And all for good reason, as many have declared it a splendid thing.

The post box!!
The post box!!

I know as blogs go for Beef and Pudding I’m a bit late really. It has been open for a few weeks now. The reviews have been flowing from the ether ever since. Whilst I work in Manchester, getting the planets to align sufficiently to waft the flame into the metrop and indulge in the latest of the New Moon Company pubs has proved more problematic than first envisaged.

However, before finally sitting to eat, I was able to ghost in one Friday Eve to sample the atmosphere and a corking pint of Cheshire ale. During this stop over I happened upon genial host and joint owner David Mooney (or @Gobbychef as he is known on twitter). Stout of build with a luscious top lip he reminded me of a defrocked version of the fabled, comedic, letch Jimmy Edwards (ooh he won’t like that – Ed). My reward for this chance meet was a small insight into what makes ‘Beef and Pudding’ tick.

Joint owner David Mooney, comedy teacher Jimmy Edwards, the sign!
Joint owner David Mooney, comedy teacher Jimmy Edwards, the sign!

First point was that social media had the saved the twosome (he and joint owner Paul Newman) a small fortune in marketing. Basically twitter alone had ensured the venture hit it’s stride from day one and that the budget sheets had been ripped up, as the 150-200 covers a day had smashed predictions and left the two chaps very happy.

To be fair it’s easy to see why. Ever since the menu was released prior to opening my lips have been smacking. It is a cracking menu and unlike any other. There literally is something for everyone. Even Auntie Nell (her with the bad flatulance and distaste of anything green) would have no trouble finding anything on here. Traditional British classics mix with quality local dishes all done with aplomb.

The awesome menu
The awesome menu

The interior kit out for me is a revelation. As Jimmy errr I mean David pointed out, they take pictures of what they see as a good idea and keep it holed up ready to unleash on the public in their next venture. The large metal lights over the bar being a case in point. Sadly they were beaten to the industrial scaffolding divider by Reds BBQ, which meant a quick redesign, but it was all taken in good heart. The tan coloured booths and the tiled bull motif are a particular triumph. I did ask whether they’d had the post box installed outside, but apparently that was already there. It features on everyone’s outdoor pictures!

The inside, and reflected logo in a taxi window
The inside, and reflected logo in a taxi window

But, I’m wittering on a bit here what about the grub I hear you cry. Well it was great, it met all expectations. For starters I had the ‘tempura monkfish cheeks’ (£8.95) which came with a glorious tandoori mayo and a homemade lime pickle. The flame romped in with a seared chicken, smoked bacon and avocado salad (£7.95) It was plentiful, colourful and very tasty. Even I got to try some chicken!

Monkfish cheeks, chicken salad, strawberry and vanilla fizz
Monkfish cheeks, chicken salad, strawberry and vanilla fizz

Despite the amazing menu believe it or not we both plundered our mains from the specials iPad! For mains the flame had two wonderful pieces of hake (£16.95) which came aboard green beans, new potatoes and then smothered in local brown shrimp. It was devine, perfectly cooked and hot.
I had a wondrous, trimmed rack of pink local lamb (£16.95). Bathed in a deep jus and nestled on potatoes and green beans. I love lamb and loved this. The meat needed the merest tease to lift it away from its bony frame.

Hake and lamb
Hake and lamb

And then there was the pudding! Or ‘The Pudding Plank’ (£14.95) which is what we had. This is basically as it says on the tin. It is a plank with pudding on. In a ‘frenchy’ bistro it might be known as an ‘assiette’, the plank is used to present hefty slivers of most of the standard dessert offerings. We got a cheese glazed Eccles cake, a banoffee cheesecake, a sticky toffee pudding, a chocolate tart, a chocolate brownie and star of the show a cherry bakewell pie. All this shared with a quenelle of cream and a goblet of luscious custard. It was a true sweet treat. We signed off with a decent coffee.

The Pudding Plank
The Pudding Plank

One of the objectives of ‘the beef’ explained by @gobbychef was to launch an outfit on the Manchester scene that served decent ale, decent wine, decent cocktails and great locally produced food. It seems to have carried it off. Im not a great afficianado of the grape but we had a rather agreeable gourmet Shiraz at £16.95 all after a couple of sizzling cocktails. The whole shebang came in at £107 which for an ‘urban pub’ is on the top end. That said we had the dearest items on the menu and wouldn’t normally have the cocktails so I reckon you could knock thirty or forty quid off that if you were concerned.

Wine, even the gents are nice, desert menu
Wine, even the gents are nice, desert menu

If we was to quibble we could argue about our table. As the late Michael Winner would say “he books a table not a restaurant” and ours placed by the meet and greet station at the entrance presented for the flame a constant view of the maître d’s and servers typing in the orders which she found a little distracting. Nonetheless we will definitely be back but we will be asking for one of those wonderful booths facing into the eating room where all the action is. This is a great addition to the Manchester restaurant wars. It’s great for a drink and as well as dinner serves food for breakfast, brunch and an express lunch. You can’t say fairer than that.
Beef and Pudding
0161 237 3733

info@beefandpudding.co.uk

37 Booth Street
off Fountain Street
Manchester City Centre
M2 4AA

Mughli – Indian Restaurant Manchester

Not usually a big fan of Indian food. Yes, as a teenage beer engine I crashed into them after the pub for a quick rogan josh with my mates, but for a serious sit down meal Indian has never really been first choice, especially when dining with the flame. However, when faced with sorting a gastronomic excursion for long time drinking, grub loving, MUFC fan and recent sexagenarian a decent Indian was a natural choice.

The mesmerising curry mile
The mesmerising curry mile
As ever, when deciding where to go, twitter came to the rescue. Local food bloggers along with lauded tv chef Nigel Slater, have all posted glowing tributes to the work of Mughli, a restaurant of some thirty one years standing, situated in Manchester’s celebrated curry mile. Our heady gang warmed up with a few scoops in the city before the ten minute taxi trek to Rusholme, home to the source of our tea. For those who don’t know ‘the curry mile’ is a neon infested thoroughfare containing dozens of restaurants, bars and food emporiums, all specialising in various strands of Indian cuisine. When we arrived I was mesmerised, I was left drooling at some of the Indian grocery stores lining the streets! Four types of aubergine, greens I’ve never seen or heard of, and all this before we stumbled on the oasis that is Mughli.
Inside Mughli and it's homemade beer
Inside Mughli and it’s homemade beer
Thankfully I had booked weeks ago using the very efficient online booking system. A texted reminder an hour before asking to confirm or decline seemed to me a great idea. As we entered we stumbled into another world. The place was rammed. The chatter and clatter of a full restaurant operating at full tilt and on the top of its game. It was a most welcome and heartening sight. The room is perfectly lit and appointed with contemporary, retro tables and chairs. Various elements of shrubbery divided the space at regular intervals.
A well trimmed youngster set us to our table guided by a high tech tablet! Within seconds our jolly and knowledgeable waiter Amjad was circling. He quickly pointed out his favourites from the font friendly, black and white menu and tipped us towards a few pints of the local brew. The brew he claimed, is constructed on the floor below by ‘elves’. We took this story as gospel and ordered up pronto.
As expected the starters rocked up first. The celebrant and I selected from the ‘charcoal pit’ section, whilst the third point of the crew opted from the ‘street food’ list. All three starters were a triumph. My fleet of tender, mildly spiced, medium cooked lamb chops had all drooling. The ‘tamarind masala fish’ (chunks of fresh haddock dusted in a spicy batter with lime) was a close second to the star of the starts the King Prawns. The size of a baby’s fist these had been flashed in the pit of charcoal before wafting through a mist of chillied spice. I managed to swap a whole chop for a mere morsel. It was worth it.
Masala fish, lamb chops, biryani, mango kulfi
Masala fish, lamb chops, biryani, mango kulfi
For mains I went for a Mughli speciality ‘Seafood and Fish Dhum Biryani’. This arrived in a good sized dish encased in a thin, battered crust. I broke through to reveal the intoxicating mix of basmati rice, pomegranate seeds and lightly spiced prawns, mussels and fish. It was a little dry at first but the neat little pans of biryani sauce and raita housed on a batten at the side soon sorted that.
The chums picked from the curry section. The choices included ‘arguably Birmingham’s finest export’ the Balti (their words not mine!), however a butter chicken and a fiery ‘chennai’ curry was picked along with rice, roti and a chilli paneer. It was all sublime and heartily confirmed by the slew of empty pots, pans and plates that were left strewn across the table.
All it needed to finish was a slug of traditional ‘ras malai’ and all would be well and the report could be ticked and signed off with a jaunty flourish, but lo, Amjad could not deliver. Despite his many offers of chocolate brownies! the ‘ras malai’ was no where to be seen. We japed for several minutes before the intrepid ‘Bradfordonian’ came up with three lollipops of Mango Kulfi, which to be fair really hit the spot. The Mughli team had pulled it out of the bag right at the death. A fine end to a smashing feed.
Cleared up, Mike & Amjad, the glasses friendly menu
Cleared up, Mike & Amjad, the glasses friendly menu
All I can say is that this has definitely rekindled my desire for Indian food. It was a revelation and met all expectations. For three of us it came to just over £90, for me a bargain. The service, the staff, the food, the beer, the atmosphere was all top notch. Well done Mughli, we’ll be back.
Mughli

30 Wilmslow Road
Rusholme
Manchester, M14 5TQ
telephone 0161 248 0900

http://www.mughli.comopening times
saturday: 3pm – late
monday-friday: 5pm – late

sunday: 1pm – late0161 248 0900

Old Wellington – Manchester

I think it’s fair to say we don’t usually consider the humble, city centre pub as a place to enjoy some fine evening grub. A couple of pints after work, meeting the mates to watch footy yes, but eat? Here in Manchester it’s the restaurants, bistros and trendy bars that seem to get the plaudits for a good feed.

I managed to coax my dad into the city to sample the odd jar of real ale. The aged relative had proved difficult to prise from his Monday nights in the local ‘conny’ club famed for its cheap beer. I, along with my young brethren set about plotting a sensible trek that would ply the major with quality ale rounding off with some decent nosebag. The Rising Sun and Sam’s Chop House set the ball rolling, they very thoughtfully provided the early evening alcoholic restoratives as prescribed. A JW Lees ‘Manchester Pale Ale’ and a Sharps ‘Doombar’ being the choice.
The old man looking slightly bronzed in Sams Chop House
The old man looking slightly bronzed in Sams Chop House
However, ever mindful of getting the old chap back home, tucked in bed without a hitch I reckoned a final throw at ‘The Old Wellington’ on the way to Victoria Rail station would round things off with aplomb. The Old Wellington in Manchester is within a short stroll of Manchester Cathedral and Exchange Square.  It has had an interesting past to say the least. There cant be many hostelrys of 1600 vintage that have been moved 100m from its original site some 400 years later!
From the outside Its has a real ‘olde worldey’ ‘choclate box’ appeal. It wouldn’t look out of place in leafy Kent or Cheshire. Inside the theme continues, wonky beams, wonky floors, ill fitting windows its all here, but given a polished sheen by owners Nicholsons.
A traditional old pub
A traditional old pub
First things first, we were able to supplant the septuagenarian into a comfy chair with a Thwaites ‘Nutty Black’. His first pint of mild of the night. A Thwaites ‘Wainwright’ (one if my favourites) wetted my pipes. The Old Wellington’s dining section is housed on the first and second floor. We nestled into a first floor slot. A short perusal of the traditional pub fayre menu soon had us choosing a hearty pre train gorge.
The menu
The menu
The provider of my very being went straight for the gammon, double egg and chips (£8.50). Basic stuff I admit but it got the thumbs up. Couldn’t fault the quantity or quality. I had the Iberian Black Pig and Apple burger (£10.50). This came on a wooden batten with some skin on chips. It was very good and certainly hit the spot. The young bruv had Venison Sausage and mash for £9.50 which were very tasty though he felt the sausages were a little overcooked. We didn’t have time for sweet but we all came away suggesting we’d come again. You never know we might bring my mum next time!
Gammon, Iberian Black Pig Burger
Gammon, Iberian Black Pig Burger
So spare a thought for the humble pub, they are still here and worth a good seeing to.
Old Wellington
4 Cathedral Gates,
Manchester,
M3 1SW
0161 839 5179

Proper Tea – Manchester Cathedral

A bad dose of planning had the Cook Twit trailing across the grand metropolis of Manchester a little too early for comfort one Saturday morning. Nonetheless he doesn’t shirk, he doesn’t quibble, he trots off back to the Victorian rail terminus for the short trek back home to the sticks. However, a quick check of the trolley bus timings shows that at the current rate of progress he will be lodged on an icy, windswept platform for a heady twenty five minutes. Thoughts quickly turn to a ‘livener’ in the nearest hostelry, but hark, what is this? A quaint, well stocked tea room homes into view. Maybe, just maybe a brew and a ‘snackette’ will stave off the unpleasantness of the pre mentioned stand on the concrete ledge?

The Cathedral through the window
The Cathedral through the window
In what was the work of a moment, the cook twit found himself gazing across the snow dropped lawns to the stately spectacle of the Cathedral of Manchester. A glance downwards found him scanning through a neatly printed menu belonging to ‘Proper Tea’. And a thoroughly decent ‘tearoomy’ menu it is too. A significant lineage of teas ran alongside the traditional fayre of sandwiches, soups and sweet cakes. Afternoon tea is an option at £16 a head, the sandwiches are on polish rye with various cheeses, pickles, hams, chickens and mushrooms. It’s all thoroughly pleasant stuff.
Menu and  room
Menu and room
Sadly, a little known fact to many, is that the cook twit can’t stand tea or indeed the smell of it and so a ‘proper’ coffee was ordered instead. Cathedral blend no less. Having surveyed the substantial stock of sweet ‘cakeage’ on the counter a ‘mini’ flapjack in the shape of a newly born muffin was also acquired. I am pleased to announce that both parts of the £3.70’s worth of subsistence were well on par.
The brew and the little flapjack
The brew and the little flapjack
The room is beautifully appointed, a chequered floor, light wood tables and chairs created a quaint but modern look. Service was maintained by two young blades in vintage pinnies. They were prompt and smiling. There was only a couple of tables left when I swept in. I suspect it gets pretty packed at peak times. I recommend you get in early with a bit of a thirst and a bit of a hunger. The ‘Proper Tea’ rooms will get you back in fettle.
Serious cakeage!
Serious cakeage!
Proper Tea
Manchester Cathedral
Visitors Centre,
10 Cateaton Street
Manchester,
M3 1SQ
Monday to Saturday 10.00 – 18.30
Sundays 10.00 – 17.00
+44(0)161 832 3220
hello@properteadeveloper.com

Jamie Oliver’s Trattoria Richmond

The daily rags have been gloating lately over the apparent demise of some of Jamie Oliver’s Italian outfits. Word is that they are lacking a bit of the old folding stuff and the reaper is beckoning.  The Cooktwit in times of panic is occasionally secreted to pastures elsewhere, leaving the North West to fend for itself. One such episode left the Cooktwit schlepping round the southern, luvvie and rugby enclave Richmond Upon Thames. As his want he needed to satiate in unfamiliar territory. After some rather pleasant examples of standard pub grub he plumbed into the strangely named ‘Trattoria Richmond’. A bit confusing really but there’s plenty of branding around to let you know Jamie Oliver has got his paws in the till.

Vintage font and cistern!
Vintage font and cistern!

Given I had spent most of the day inspecting old school furniture, I had a wry smile as most of the furniture in here looked like the stuff I was advising others to throw out!! Still, the surroundings were pleasant enough, although the chair I selected at my table for three was a bit saggy and low due to its previous forty years of use! The whole affair screams vintage, right from the menu font to the gents water cistern!

Focaccia, squid, truffle pasta, berry frangipan
Focaccia, squid, truffle pasta, berry frangipan

The food worked out well enough. I ordered a large glass of deep red ‘Montipulciano’, some tap water and some focaccia with olive oil and balsamic (£3.00). I secretly hoped the bread would be warm but it was cold. Still it was tasty enough and helped stave off a raving hunger.  Next up was some deep fried squid with lemon and garlic mayo. It came on a paddle and some chintzy napkin. The rings were a bit small and so the taste of batter pervaded rather more than it should, but it was crunchy, hot and not bad for £3.50. My main dish was Truffle Tagliotelli. I’ve never had truffle so I was really looking forward to this. It didn’t disappoint. Some of the blurb boasts that they make their own dough and pasta. If that was true it really worked, the pasta strips were perfectly cooked and tasted superb, arguably the best pasta I’ve had in a long time (including my own!!). The truffle sauce was lovely and ‘mushroomy’ and thankfully I had saved some bread to mop up.  A berry, frangipani tart with clotted cream finished along with a black, Italian coffee.

image

All in all a top bit of Italian scran, all for £28. I was in quite early around 5.30 on a Thursday eve. There wasn’t many in at the time and so it was a bit quiet, but by the time I came to pay, a good ninety minutes later, the long narrow place was buzzing and operating at three quarter pace. Service was efficient and friendly, so let’s hope these Jamie’s gaffs get a pick up and keep going, I’d go again.

Trattoria, 12-13 King Street,  Richmond,  TW9 1ND Jamieoliver.com 0207 096 3930