Category Archives: Eating Out Reviews

At restaurants, pubs and other fine eateries

The Easy Fish Company – Heaton Moor, Manchester

“Never had fish prepared and presented better!”

Some young relatives had just birthed their first offspring, a trip to Heaton Moor to see the ruddy cheeked ‘Rocco’ was called for. The Flame and I ventured forth using the great steel highway. A modest carriage pulled in to Heaton Chapel on a cold, fog bound afternoon. A luncheon at The Easy Fish Company had been on the list for sometime. As luck would have it, it too along with said relatives is housed in leafy Heaton Moor.

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We trotted along. Some fifteen minutes later the blue fronted fish shop ventured into view. A little non plussed we scuttled in. On first impressions it is indeed a fishmongers, complete with large low counter packed with ice and a super array of fish and seafood. We surveyed the scene for a time before heading towards the rear. A cheery, young chap with a beard (called Adam) greeted us warmly and confirmed that we had a table and could pretty much chose where we wanted to sit. We snuck round a corner and settled on a smart table for two. A large, white, house ‘grillo’ was soon poured.

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It’s a fairly stark but contemporary room. Light oak tables and chairs, combined with blue hues and sea faring images dotted about the walls. It’s pleasant enough. The afore mentioned Adam, soon had the plain black on white menu in our grasp and reeled off the specials. It’s a spectacular list of seafood and fish. An obligatory steak is offered as an alternative.

The Flame picked the potted fish board (£9.25) to start. Salmon, shrimps and prawns with soda bread and dressings. It was a substantial and tasty offer. I had to help out. Three good pots of seafood and a good few slices of warm bread. Super stuff. I went for crab claws (£5.25) which I have to say was a bargain. Appropriate tooling was supplied which enabled a good deal of fresh crab meat to be extracted. They were set on a crouton and came with a warm, butter dressing and a garlic mayonnaise. As crab would be my ‘heaven’ on Saturday Kitchen I was suitably raptured. Great start.

The potted board
The potted board
Crab claws with tools
Crab claws with tools

Mains up next. I went for the special. A bit pricey at £24.50 but boy what a dish. Pan seared plaice, with langoustine, clams and mussels served over new potatoes, sautéed greens, roast garlic with a chicken, lemon and thyme broth. Stunningly presented, It was faultless. Every mouthful was a delight. The broth sparingly supplied adding a tinge of flavoured moisture just when required.

Plaice with all the trimmings
Plaice with all the trimmings

The flame, equally pleased with her grilled hake, Thai sweet potato and lobster Spring roll with coriander creme fraiche (£16.25). A hefty traunch of soft white, meaty flesh allied to a tangy roll. As with mine it was beautifully presented. We both cleared our plates.

Hake
Hake

I had a lavender and honey creme brûlée to finish. Again superb. We rounded off with a decent Lilly coffee.

Lavender creme brulee
Lavender creme brulee

Speaking to Adam, he mentioned The Easy Fish company is barely a year old and supplies a number of other restaurants with fish. Steve Green (head chef) is the man who works the pass. I can honestly say having dined at Rick Stein’s and Nathan Outlaw’s, both renowned fish specialists, I have not had fish prepared and presented any better than this. It was a revelation. Around £80 for lunch with a couple of big glasses of wine may be a tad luxuriant but the menu is the same at night. Lovers of seafood should get down here quick. We noticed Damson next store, another local triumph we hear. A further pint on our way back completed the afternoon. Heaton Moor has a market on the odd Sunday. It would seem it has a good bit of foodie highlights on offer. it’s definitely worth the trip.

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The Easy Fish Company
117 Heaton Moor Rd, Stockport SK4 4HY
0161 442 0823
http://www.theeasyfishco.com

Bull’s Head – Mobberley, Cheshire

“Great food and quality ales on tap. It’s another for the list!”

After landing from a week away golfing with some chums, The Cooktwit needed to be in top form to placate The Flame. Country walks with a decent feed tends to do the trick. In stepped The Bulls Head in Mobberley. Mobberley is a quaint village set in Cheshire between Knutsford and Wilmslow. It tends to be one of the places the big North West football clubs use to house prospective foreign talent. I would suggest The Bulls Head lies at the centrepiece of the offer. It’s a perfect facsimile of the quintessential country pub. Set down a leafy lane it makes a fine sight, particularly when washed in the fine autumn sunshine that greeted us. The large outdoor garden (no doubt a former bowling green?) is lined with outdoor bench sets. Despite being only twelve thirty they are almost full of eager punters. Many no doubt slipped out from nearby offices.

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I slip inside to survey the set up. Six real ales line up the bar. A ‘White Bull’ light ale by Wincle Beers is ordered up. As The Flame had already taken up residence outside it was the briefest of internal tours to determine the fittings. Solid tables with solid ‘seatage’ sets the tone. It’s exactly as you would imagine. I’m sure winter will bring plenty of roaring fires. It’s terrifically traditional, low beams, stone floors, jaunty signage, it’s great stuff, very comforting. I took out a couple of clipboards, each clipping a sheath of cream card. The menu is extensive and features British pub grub favourites. Sandwich of the day was crab. I was severely tempted but decided to test out the special ‘Pie week’ menu. I love a good pie.

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We both went straight for mains. The flame went for her standard fish pie (£12.95) with a portion of chips. It arrived on its plank with some spinach and peas. She expressed a small initial disappointment when presented with the small rectangular tin, but it was short lived. It was packed with smoked fish, mainly salmon along with haddock and trout. She proclaimed it to be one of the best and a very close run thing to her all time favourite from The Church Green (see here).

The laden fish pie
The laden fish pie

I ordered up from the pie week menu. Smoked pork belly, Yorkshire chorizo and spiced apple cider with a mustard grain mash (£14.50). I prefer a full pie and was mildly disappointed to receive a cast pot with a puff pastry top. However, after forking a couple of luscious globules of pork belly and some cuboids of spicy chorizo, washed in a sweet creamy sauce I was back on track. I finally mopped up with the mustard mash. It was all rather good. The chips were decent enough, but we have been treated to the Freemasons at Wiswell versions lately and it tends to slightly taint anyone’s else’s.

Pork belly and chorizo pie
Pork belly and chorizo pie

I rounded off with a ‘Famous Mobberley Mess’ (£5.25). I’m not sure why it was famous but it was rather good if you like that sort of thing (and I do!). A decent green tea and black coffee rounded off.

The Mobberley mess
The Mobberley mess

We then took off round their three and a half mile pub walk. A natty little flyer is on hand to lead the way. As it was a glorious October day it was perfectly get ’roundable’ in trainers. I dare say wellies would have been needed back in August! A further ginger ale was imbibed on our return as recommended by the genial host. A couple of Manchester United players had settled next to us by this time. We enjoyed a truly wonderful few hours. Service was friendly and engaging. This is another one for the regular list for us. Fully recommended.

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The Bulls Head

Mill Lane
Mobberley
Knutsford
Cheshire
WA16 7HX

t: 01565 873395
e: info@thebullsheadpub.co.uk

The Railway Cafe and Gin Bar (Mughli) – Alderley Edge

“A salad for Sunday Lunch, are you mad?”

You’re not if it’s a Mughli salad! Mughli is a pretty famous (and rather sensational) Indian Restaurant based on the curry mile in Rusholme (see review here). However, they are starting to spread out a bit. A smart place in Knutsford has been around for some time now and something is due in The Northern Quarter Manchester later in the year. Squeezed in between is this little ‘pop up’ restaurant in Alderley Edge. It was only meant to last 12 weeks last year, but it seems to have grown legs and extended itself. Good job really or else I would have missed it!

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Shop front, Gin making facilities

The Flame reluctantly agreed to the visit so long as a romp onto The Edge itself was involved. She doesn’t really like Indian food. I ventured it’s not really Indian and she would like it! We stepped in off the street. It is basically a converted shop.

Inside the simple shop front bearing a simple, smart graphic is a simple kit out. Old apple boxes form the shelving behind the bar. Basic tables and chairs abound with industrial stooling at the bar. A chilled soundtrack wafts through the bijou space. Natural light streams in from the street onto the touch down benching at the front. It reminds me a little bit of Levanter Foods in Ramsbottom (see here) in terms of feel and space.

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Unlike Levanter there are a few outdoor tables and chairs to allow for the alfresco experience. Sadly it was a little bit cool for that when we were there. Also sadly, there weren’t many people in. Two at the front, two at the bar and that was it. To be fair I don’t think many were about in Alderley Edge full stop. The trendy bars at the posh end of town seemed a little bereft of folk as well.

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Undeterred we settled in. Our two young, enthusiastic  waitresses keeping us up to speed with developments. A rather palatable pale ale from Runaway Beers had me settled in no time. As with the standard Mughli, it’s a simple, plain white, single sided menu to choose from. Brilliant. Starters, nibbles, brunch, large plates and desserts all catered for. The Flame struggled a bit whilst I was struggling to keep my choice down to an amount that I could be cooked in time! I could have stuck a pin in blindfold.

I went for a few small plates whilst the Flame went for the salad. I say salad. It was a beetroot and avocado salad with garlic toasts and a cumin yoghurt dip (£8.50). It came stacked over the sliced beetroot with various drizzles. When pushed over it filled the plate with a glorious, fresh taste. My fork full came blessed with chilli and fresh coriander. An absolute delight. She had a side of gunpowder chips (£4.00), which came dusted in spice. Wonderful.

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Gunpowder Chips

I had chickpea fritters with chilli and coriander dip (£4.50). They came arranged like a ‘janga’ game. Stacked like sleepers. Looked good actually and tasted good with the dip. Loved them. I also went for the popcorn shrimp with a lime citrus dip (bit pricey at £8.50 perhaps?). Quite a big portion, but tasted fantastic. I preferred it with the aioli dip that came with the chips. I also had the special of the day, lamb chops with pickled onion (£6.50). Two charred but succulent chops. Very nice.

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Chops, Chickpea Fritters, Popcorn shrimp

I rounded off with a teeth ‘scratchingly’ sweet Mumbai Mess (£5.95). I should add that very sweet is good for me! It was basically an Eton Mess using a sensation, vanilla Chantilly cream. A brilliant but filling end.

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Beetroot and avocado salad, Mumbai mess

We both proclaimed we’d had a cracking Sunday lunch. Full of flavour and excitement. It came in at a weighty £47. The Flame was converted. Maybe I can get her to try the real Mughli? Watch this space……..

The Railway Café and Gin Bar
7 London Rd,
Alderley Edge SK9
01625 865865

http://www.alderleyginbar.com

La Boheme – Lymm, Cheshire

“How do they do it? Superbly presented food with a huge choice”

Before I worked in Manchester, the only place I ever went for a special occasion was La Boheme in Lymm. Birthdays, anniversaries, christenings…you name it La Boheme was THE place. French cuisine delivered with a British twist is its game.  In some respects it’s been largely forgotten (by me), so it was with a welcome smile that ‘little sis’ announced that the family would be trooping back to celebrate Mum and Dads 54th Wedding Anniversary.

Mum & Dad, 54 years
Mum & Dad, 54 years

The eight of us waltzed into the old house on a chilly Wednesday night. The place hadn’t changed. The white frontage and fret cut logo was still there. We ventured into the bar and settled down to a pre-dinner drink. I think elegance is the word. Dark wood, sage banquettes, cream coverings matched to a series of Parisian black and white images create a comfortable and safe atmosphere. The odd display of fresh cut flowers adding a further flourish.

Elegance
Elegance

We had a large round table for our party, superb for eight. We each took a large leather bound volume to survey the incredibly extensive menu. I recall Gordon Ramsay in one of his ‘restaurant helping’ programmes advising on a simple menu. “Prepare everything through the day” he preached, so that all that was needed at service time was a quick flash under the grill or a final dunk in boiling water. Chef Olivier Troalen must have eight arms and an ability to levitate to make this menu happen. There are at least twelve starters and twelve mains as well as specials to go at. The place is packed. Each dish has several ingredients and is presented beautifully and consistently.

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12 Starts
12 Starts, 12 mains, 14 desserts!

First up some ‘yellow’ canapés. Carrot and coriander soup was one. Savoury macaroons featured. Great start.

The entourage went for a variety of starters, too numerous to mention here. I had the pink pigeon breast or ‘Supreme De Pigeon A La Tom Pigeon breast pan fried to pink, served with a quenelle of blackberry risotto, aromatic carrot puree & Parmesan croquette, dressed with a robust game jus (Unlikely, but this dish may contain a pellet)’ to give it its full name! The Flame won with an ‘Assiette De Gambas Du Marche’ i.e. Fresh king prawn tails marinated in garlic & chilli, quickly pan fried & presented on a mango, pineapple, papaya, chilli, lime & coriander salsa, served with grilled ciabatta & a shot of king prawn bisque. I managed a slug of prawn with chilli, wonderful. The young nephew munched through frog legs (Les Cuisses De Grenouilles De Provence Crispy frog legs served on an aromatic tomato & chorizo compote, accompanied with a deep fried onion ring, served with a aioli dressing). He proclaimed it a revelation.

Canapés, frogs legs, king prawn starters
Canapés, frogs legs, king prawn starters
Pigeon breast, Monkfish,
Pigeon breast, Monkfish,

Main next, I went lamb again (see Cartford Inn! here).  ‘Carre D’Agneau Du Sud’ (£4.00 extra) Rack of lamb roasted to pink, served with pan fried new potatoes, baby stuffed aubergine & courgette flan flavoured with cheese, lime & thyme, finished with a rosemary jus. Stunning presentation, beautifully cooked. Everything on the plate really worked. Various others went monkfish, fillet steak, all looked rather splendid and all thoroughly enjoyed.

Lamb cutlets, perfect
Lamb cutlets, perfect

Desserts up next, loads of us including the main guests had the bread and butter pudding with rum and raisin ice cream. Others included Tarte Au Citron and Panacotta A’ La Fraise (Creamy vanilla panacotta served with a fresh strawberry & basil soup, garnished with a homemade shortbread biscuit).

Almond tart, strawberry tart, bread and butter pudding
Almond tart, strawberry tart, bread and butter pudding

The three course menu is £28 each, though a couple of the mains add a few quid. I have to say it is difficult to imagine how value can be bettered. To have such a choice of food prepared and serviced as well as this seems to me to be nothing short of a miracle. I’m sure someone has the answers but it’s a real hats off to Head Chef Olivier Troalen and his team. He even does cookery courses on the side. Apparently he hopes to be the “Cantona of cooking”! I think he is there already. Flair, passion and quality. It’s a heady mix.

If you want a night of sheer ‘old school’ elegance get yourself and your loved one down to Lymm and  La Boheme. You’ll not be disappointed.

La Boheme
3 Mill Lane,
Heatley,
Lymm,
Cheshire. WA13 9SD
T: 01925 753657

http://www.laboheme.co.uk

The Cartford Inn – Little Eccleston, Poulton

“Yawn, another superb place to eat in Lancashire!”

Regular readers will know (what you have regulars? – Ed) that I have become acutely aware of the plethora of fine eateries in our very own ‘Northern Quarters’ of Lancashire. It was only a few weeks ago we sampled the wonders of Freemasons at Wiswell (see here). This fine bank holiday Monday it was a quick tour into the fair county of Fylde to witness the highly acclaimed ‘The Cartford Inn’.

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Four Day Tea Tour of Manchester

During the traumatic week that The Cooktwit was left marooned and had to fend for himself with a five day breakfast blitz of Manchester (see here) he also had to endure eating out straight after work for his tea as well. These things are sent to try us, but you’ll be pleased to know I gave it a good go. I deliberately chose either quirky, relatively new, or just plain different from my normal fayre.

If you’re canny Monday night in Manchester can yield a few bargains. I figured the 50% off food deal at Tariff and Dale, hip new pizza joint in the Northern Quarter would be a good start. And indeed it was. £9.60 all in for a rather fine Outstanding Brewery IPA, a rather generous plate of hot Njuda sausage and chilli pizza and a rather fine tublet of slaw. The pizza was a belter, typified by the rather fine ‘leoparding’ around the edge, ensuring the excellent dough base had been ‘caught’ at just the right time. I ate downstairs in the ubiquitous, NQ, industrialised decor. A thoroughly pleasant teatime feast.

Pizza and slaw
Pizza and slaw
More pizza with leoparding.
More pizza with leoparding.

Tuesday, it was over to another new, Northern Quarter outfit. This time Yard and Coop. It’s modus operandi is to ply the locals in buttermilk fried chicken. I’ve become fairly addicted to this stuff via streetfood favourites Mumma Schnitzel, so I was quite looking forward to compare. I had two decent chunks of boneless thigh. It comes with a much darker (and hence different tasting) crumb than Mummas, but it was nonetheless rather good. The chicken beautifully succulent. I had a couple of sides, a bean salad with creme fraiche which was rather good and a spicy slaw which was not. There was no mayo in it, so it was curiously dry, livening up only when a kick of spice became apparent. Had a corking vanilla milkshake with it. All in around £14. Loved the place, anywhere with a cartoon fox on the wall and some chicken coops to sit in has to be good right?

Chicken and milkshake
Chicken and milkshake
More yardage and the comedy fox
More yardage and the comedy fox

Sticking to the Northern Quarter I then nipped into El Capo for some Mexican tapas (via a rather splendid Seven Brothers Pale ale and a mojito at Beef and Pudding!). I can’t really tell you much about the decor. It was so dark down there I had to use my iphone torch to see the menu! That said I enjoyed the food. I had three plates, balls, heart and cheesy fritters. All really good actually. The cows heart with chilli was particularly good. Subtle liver taste and texture. The meatballs were massive. I imagined that size they would be too dry, but they weren’t. The cheesy fritters provided a lovely contrast to the other two spicy dishes. All in with a Shipyard IPA £18.

Heart balls and fritters. It's dark so apologies for the crap pics!
Heart balls and fritters. It’s dark so apologies for the crap pics!

A final touch of indulgence. Nipped into Hawksmoor (review here) for a lobster roll and chips. Slushed down with a Buxton IPA it was my biggest expenditure at £27.50, but Ye gods it was good. I recommend all to do this at least once! A lightly toasted brioche elongated roll (hot dog roll?) came stuffed with luscious chunks of sweet, garlic buttered lobster and a dish of buttery béarnaise sauce. I have waxed lyrically at the triple cooked chips before. Given it was sixish I had the exquisite restaurant to myself, I felt like a Lord! Forty five minutes of pure bliss.

Decadence, a lobbie roll
Decadence, a lobbie roll

The Flame came back Friday so it was back to a comforting salad for tea! Only kidding, we actually treated ourselves to a chippy tea. Rather good though I say so myself. Top week had by all. Spent a few bob but it was worth it. The new boys on the Manchester block delivered. Plenty more to come……..

http://www.tariffanddale.com   http://www.elcaponq.co.uk  www.yardandcoop.com   http://www.thehawksmoor.com

Breakfast in Manchester – A Five Day Tour

“It seems you can get an early breakfast in Manchester, great start to the day”

The Cooktwit only earns his keep in Manchester. It’s an hours jaunt to the ‘metrop’. Breakfast is normally an early morning affair comprising semi skimmed milk and some wheat grains. For variety the grains may be flaked, branned, crusted or boiled.

The Flame took off for a week leaving the hapless cooktwit marooned. However, he doesn’t quake, he dusts himself down, gets out his credit card and hits town. An experiment ensued, what can Manchester offer for a mid-week pre office feed?

First up Pot Kettle Black, bit of a cheat this, I go here quite a bit for a ‘52diet’ porridge. Lovely little independent coffee stop in the Barton Arcade.  I’ve tried a few porridges in town. I reckon at £2.50 its good value for money, so I reckon this is the best. A good portion, still with a bit of bite and comes with a cup of honey and dried fruit. Could do with being hotter but you can break walls down with this. Good start.

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Tuesday I nipped down to Wholesome and Raw, one of the six new outlets awarded a stab at setting up full time at The Kitchens in Spinningfields. As the name suggests they specialise in organic, good for you grub. I had what turned out to be a cross between a salad and a toastie. Toasted sourdough bread with super scrambled eggs on one and sliced avocado on the other. Flanked by tomatoes and shrubbery dripped in balsamic and oils. An unusual breakfast but nonetheless another super start. Copped me £6.90 though.

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Wednesday over to surprise entry Per Tutti. An Italian restaurant by trade, but here it is offering a super breakfast menu from 8am. I dined alone in smart surroundings with great coffee. I plumbed for a smoked haddock, kedgeree scotch egg. Set on rocket it was a fair size and was very tasty. Came in at £8.50 with the brew. A surprisingly good start.

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Thursday its over to Bills. First chain of the week, but one I’ve always thought seems a bit better than many. Been to a few around the country. They all seem well thought out with an eclectic interior and a good menu. I had the eggs benedict. I love eggs benedict. I’ve had better than this to be fair; I prefer a thicker hand cut ham, rather than the thin sliced stuff. But I’m quibbling, there’s quite a few in here, the service is perky and smart and it’s a great view onto John Dalton Street. All in Dearest of the week £9.30.

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Final day, it’s a sunlit Carlucci’s in Spinningfields. Another chain, but again another quality one in my opinion. Had a corking fry up in Leeds once as well as several decent pastas around the country. Had a simple muesli and yoghurt which came with a dish of honey and a dish of berries. Good portion, great crunch and taste. Lasted me well into the day. Coffee always decent as well, spent many a time in Piccadilly waiting for train with one. All in £7.35.

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Have to say I thoroughly enjoyed my little tour of early doors eating in Manchester. Couldn’t fault any of them. If you’re on a budget probably best to stick to a simple independent. All in all I spent £34.65 but each time I was well set up for the day. Ill certainly be giving this a try again as a little treat.

http://www.bills-website.co.uk
http://www.potkettleblackltd.co.uk
http://www.pertutti.co.uk
http://www.carluccios.com
@wholesomeandraw

Freemasons of Wiswell – Lancashire

“I reckon you can fall out of bed and hit your head on an AA rosette in the Ribble valley!”

It is clear there is a plethora of fine eateries in this golden seam of rural Lancashire. The Flame and I chalked another Northern gem off the list last Sunday. This time ‘Freemasons at Wiswell’ to add to ‘The Parkers Arms’, ‘Assheton Arms’, ‘The Three Fishes’ and probably a few others. And once again, as with the others, it is well worth the hours drive.

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It was a chance tickle on the old ‘tinterweb’ to see where we could go for lunch when I saw Wiswell on the map. It clicked a few cogs and within seconds the ‘Opentable’ electronic platform confirmed we had indeed bagged a lunch time spot at the Freemasons. The steed sped North, an hour later the young lady in the dashboard led us up a narrow track past the fine, understated, terraced exterior.

We pushed through the cacophony of prizes on the windows. Ribands, rosettes, stars, cups they were all there. We knew we were entering somewhere rather grand. We were warmly welcomed and gently ushered to our upper floor table. A quick glance at the bar confirmed my first beverage would be manufactured by Propsect Brewery, a fine purveyor of light beers.

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Our table for two could have sat six. We had plenty of space and time to admire the plush, substantial décor. Pure countrtyside. Tweeds mixed with game, hunting, and racing images backed by crisp yellow ‘paintage’. This is a quality interior. This is where you bring your favourite Gran for a fine birthday feast! Great stuff.

First up, the breads. I concur with many that the quality of bread (and the butter for that matter) sets the tone. What a tone this sets. A platoon of warm, homemade delights festooned a steely slate. Quinelles of butter sprigged with salt lent a hand nearby. The combinations were tremendous. I could have carried on and just lived off this.

The bread, butter, the chips
The bread, butter, the chips

We ordered from the £25 per head, set three course lunch. It’s a sparing but nonetheless triumphant offer. The Flame went for the cod loin, set on charred and pickled melon which was set in a large bowl. The waitress then swamped the said ingredients in a warm pool of iberico ham flavoured broth. The Flame wasn’t initially convinced but soon warmed to the idea. I managed half a fork full of translucent cod, washed in ham. Wonderful. I had heritage tomatoes with English mozzarella salad. Except it wasn’t just that. It also arrived in a huge earthenware bowl. The tomatoes diced, the ice cold mozzarella set as a cream. It was more like a desert. It was crackingly good. A particular revelation being the warm ‘tomato essence’. Coming the day after watching Kenny Atkinson (House of Tides) prepare ‘tomato water’ the day before on Saturday kitchen it was a particular delight.

Cod, heritage tomatoes
Cod, heritage tomatoes

Main courses swept in. The Flame a huge pot of fish pie topped with vegetables and dotted with mash. Still a touch short of her all time favourite at The Church Green, but splendid all the same. She also had to test out the chip competition. A couple of weeks back we had lauded the triple cooked versions by Hawksmoor. These duck fat efforts were equally, if not more tremendous. Perfect cylinders of soft, golden potato. A true delight and an absolute must when you come.

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I had arguably the finest Sunday roast Ive ever had. The beef cooked to the prescribed vermillion  allied to a suite of beautifully cooked and remarkably tasty vegetables. A perfect Sunday roast for me. Thoroughly agreeable.

Sweet time. Two simple desserts. The flame a deep chocolate mousse with passion fruit ice cream, while I had ‘Alpine Strawberry’, a disc of mashed berries with creamy cream and vanilla ice cream. Both thoroughly delightful. A very decent coffee ended it all.

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We paid the £65 bill and marvelled to each other at the quality of what we had just eaten. We left already formulating plans to return for a special occasion and to go from the normal menu. The accolades are fully deserved, this is indeed a very special place. I’m afraid it’s another recommend from us.

Freemasons at Wiswell
8 Vicarage Fold
Wiswell
Clitheroe
Lancashire
BB7 9DF

t: 01254 822218
e: enquiries@freemasonswiswell.co.uk

Hawksmoor – Manchester

“It would seem all the hype was right, a simple menu done extremely well”

The grand exterior
The grand exterior

It was The Cooktwit birthday, mid-July as always. My aim was to hit two Manchester biggies! An afternoon with the boys yielded a long sought after sortie to Iberica. That was brilliant. For the big day itself though, The Flame treated me to my other ‘on the list’ eatery ‘Hawksmoor’. It was heralded by many as Manchester’s most eagerly awaited restaurant opening. Its original London based versions are still lauded as places to be. Lots have been written about this Manchester version. I doubt I can add too much, but I’ll try!

The pass, the gleeful bar staff
The pass, the gleeful bar staff

It’s a grand space. Housed in an, old, former, Victorian courthouse on Deansgate. The grandeur is replicated within. Mahogany panels and leather seating defines the look. You enter the dining area via the bar and the spectacular pass. The gentlemen’s club persona continues. One could easily imagine Bertie Wooster treating Gus Finknottle to a snifter and a scotch egg whilst Jeeves* waits outside with the umbrella. Our Jeeves operated indoors by the name of Alex. Wearing a spectacular beard he sat down and explained in perfect detail as to how best to negotiate the evening ahead.

The dining room
The dining room

A Buxton IPA was his first recommendation. Needless to say that worked. He then led both The Flame and I through the card before delivering a stunning, three course meal. It’s a fairly simple menu. Meat or fish with all the trimmings. The only complication is working out whether to buy your steak by weight (about 10 pence per gram!) or as an individual cut and which sides to add.

For starts I had the scallops. Four massive roasted scallops, scalded to their shell with a crumb and tarragon, garlic butter. They cost £14 mind but blimey what a start. They were plump and delicious. The flame had the smoked salmon and soda bread (£9). Again, simple quality.

Bream in a bag, scallops, ribeye
Bream in a bag, scallops, ribeye

For mains we went for the royal sea bream with rosemary, garlic and chilli (£18). It came whole ‘en papillote’ with sweet potato side and buttered greens (£3.50 each). Cooked to perfection, the flame stripped it bare in no time. I went for a medium/rare rib eye steak (£26) with triple cooked chips (£4) and an anchovy hollandaise sauce. Hawksmoor is renowned for its steaks. It was easy to understand why. I’m struggling to recall a better steak. I’m not sure I’ve had one, it was off the scale tender. A word about the side. Chips for me nowadays are a rare treat. In the words of Michael Winner these were ‘historic’. A mild crunch outside with a soft centre, pure bliss. It’s worth coming here for these!

As ever desserts were called for. The flame opted for a very neat cheese selection (£10) complete with Apple and walnuts, whilst I went old school with a sticky toffee pudding and ice cream (£7.50). Both great.

The puds
The puds

If you’ve been adding up whilst you read, you may have noticed the cost was racking up! The bill came in at £121. Now that’s quite a lot. If you reckon on £80 for a good ‘gastropub’ equivalent you are looking at a good thirty percent more here. Is it worth it?…..I reckon so. We both thought it was a superb meal. Everything, as you would expect, was presented piping hot, cooked to perfection. Service was impeccable. Atmosphere in the grand room was electric as the punters gradually filtered in. A simple menu, all done remarkably well. If you like good honest grub, it can’t really be beaten. Book in as soon as you can. Don’t wait as long as we did……

HAWKSMOOR MANCHESTER
186 DEANSGATE,
MANCHESTER M3 3WB
0161 836 6980

http://www.thehawksmoor.com

*Anyone under thirty google PG Wodehouse!

Els Quatre Gats (The 4 Gats) – Barcelona, Spain

“A sumptuous meal in the most elegant and historic surroundings imaginable…..”

It’s our last night in Barcelona, it’s a Sunday, The Flame and I are desperate for a decent parting memory after a glorious few days. We had tramped round Gaudi’s fair city for a good forty miles in three days. Something close to our headquarters was called for. After consultation with our trusty ‘Lonely Planet’ guide a tucked away hideout “Els Quatre Gats” was earmarked.

The Flame illuminates the 4 Gats exterior!
The Flame illuminates the 4 Gats exterior!

Honest Catalan cuisine in a lovely back room was promised. We set forth. We weaved our way through a maze of dark alleyways (close to the famous ‘La Rambla’) to be confronted with the grand, subtly lit archway. A few souls hung outside debating the menu, I simply brushed in and asked for a back room seat for two. A dusky young maid agreed this was possible provided we were having dinner. If you wanted tapas you stayed in the rather more modest, but no less authentic, front room.

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We sat at our beautifully set table. White linen and silver cutlery beckoned. We gaped in awe around us. There can’t be a room anywhere so clearly designed as an area to dine with a loved one. Elegance radiates from every angle. A huge column of white roses dominates, whilst a dark wooden veranda encircles the space from above. We were downstairs in the centre but one can only imagine the further delight of dining upstairs. Pictures hang around the room depicting the ancestral lineage of this historic room.

Elegance
Elegance

Salvatore the current encumbent announces his arrival. With his boyish, ‘Rockstar’ looks he exudes front of house charm. He guides us expertly through the card and applauded The Flames’ choice of his Grandmothers cod recipe. Romeo, the grumpy ‘penguined’ waiter wafted around us reading Salvatore’s instructions before throwing our bread down. We glance in amusement as he ‘harumphs’ his way round the room. We decide later that this is all part of the charm. Turns out Romeo is high up the chain, a nod and wink later we realise he loves us really. Especially when he saw how completely I had demolished the suckling pig. A gushing ‘gracias’ greeted my empty plate.

Starters
Starters

For starts The Flame won, again! A mixed salad of goats cheese, with walnuts and tomatoes (€12) arrived. The cheese, warmed and encased in a gossamer of scorched filo. The flame crushed though the side to reveal the warm gooey goodness which was mixed with candied fruits. She proclaimed that she could have had this three times over for a main and dessert! It was her sort of dish. By slight contrast I had a warm mushroom soup with black pudding (€12). Watching some of the other dishes coming out I realised I had made a small error here. The lobster risotto should have been my choice. That said the soup with the black pudding lollipop and egg yolk was a delight, very ‘mushroomy’ as you would expect. It had a very thick consistency, never more apparent than when Romeo poured it quickly over the egg and pudding!

As mentioned for mains The Flame picked the cod (€21) which came with a gorgeous aioli on top with a crumb, quince jelly and a smear of salty roe. All set on creamy spinach. My morsel was sublime. The flame once again raptured. Not to be outdone though my suckling pig with sweet potato, candied pears and orange sauce (€26) was a triumph. My, albeit, sharp knife sliced through the crusty skin into the sweet, sticky flesh with ease. Mopped up with sauce and a flash of pear and spud it was a taste sensation. All that was left was a pile of stripped sinewy bone. Romeo was impressed.

Suckling pig, grandmas cod, bones
Suckling pig, grandmas cod, bones

For dessert I had the cheesecake with coffee pastry and nuts (€9) whilst The Flame opted for the apricot cake, a ginger jam, topped with a coconut cream and lemon (€8). Both were works of art and gastronomy. Presented on a slate with swirls and swishes of sauce they could have come straight out a Parisienne patisserie. Both sublime.

The menu, desserts
The menu, desserts

We enjoyed a couple of glasses of wine and some fine coffee. The bill came to (€109) which is about seventy quid. Pretty much English ‘gastropub’ money. We both concluded this was one of the best dining experiences we’ve ever had. Made no doubt as much by the surroundings as the food. We whiled away a tad more time with the wonderful live singer, strumming Joan Armatrading tunes. A gleeful Salvatore thanked us for coming. We ambled into the night truly satiated. A fine end to a wonderful holiday. Picasso knew what he was doing when he came here, I urge you all to get the next flight out…..enjoy!

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4 Gats
Carrer de Montsió, 3,
08002 Barcelona,
España
http://www.4gats.com