Tag Archives: cumbria

L’Enclume – Cartmel, Cumbria

“Well thats one on the bucket list ticked off! Think Ill go again and again though…..”

IMG_1621

Finally done it. Finally absorbed the foraged and farmed nutrients of Simon Rogans’s Cumbrian bounty. His two Michelin starred restaurant L’Enclume. Took 55 years exactly to do it mind, but I did it. And it met all expectations. An astounding experience.

IMG_1623

After a gentle meander in the ‘Rogan L’Enclume’ shop, (where I just managed to avoid buying a stainless steel quail egg topper!), we trudged the two hundred yards or so through the torrential rain from the quaint little square of Cartmel to the stone, understated former smithy that now houses this edifice of gastronomic wonderment. Indeed the anvil (English for L’Enclume geddit?) is the only exterior nod to the great place inside. We entered for a lunch time treat starting at 1.30pm. The place was packed! We were greeted with extraordinary enthusiasm by the ecstatic front of house team. There seemed to be hundreds of them.

Once ensconced at our generous, organically shaped table we allowed the experience to wash over us. A large, cumbrian G&T to settle the nerves. And then we were off. The eight course extravaganza was underway. I now merely quote from the wax anvil (natch) sealed envelope which housed our menu and wine flight in full.

enclume menu

First up a gentle start of stringy leeks, garlic and ashes, with deep fried ball of pork and eel with ham fat. We gingerly tucked in. Needn’t have worried. Glorious start. To think my food hell is beetroot. Up next a stunning puree of beetroot with pine and a quail egg underneath. Arguably the best course for me. It could have been a dessert such was the wonderful sweetness and luscious texture of the mousse. Historic.

IMG_1624

Next up aged veal with a touch of coal oil, radish and oxalis. A rather dainty dish this, dwarfed by the heady circumference of its earthenware dish. Next another highlight, Candisa cabbage, english wasabi and fermented mushroom. The cabbage was charred, the mushroom augmented with truffle. Sensational. I must mention the breads and butters at this stage. They appeared in various guises throughout. All warmed with pasteurised or unpasteurised butter. All utterly faultless.

IMG_1627

Next a saddle of lamb and turnips with sweetbreads and glazed kale. Wonderfully cooked. The kale supplied with other foraged specimens. Then the sweet bits started. First up a symphony of strawberries, malwina ones with verbana.

IMG_1628

Another sweet bit next, rhubarb with yoghurt a sweet cicely. We elected to sample the cheeseboard as an extra. Super local ones with an array of fancy crackers.

IMG_1629

As it was my birthday I got my own individual almond cake. With coffee we then plundered the kendal mint cake ice cream balls and the edible moss gel! Amazing stuff.

IMG_1630

IMG_1622

The whole lot came in at £300 with tip. The lunch itself is £55 with the wine flight a further £49. We were there for nigh on four hours. A stunning experience. We left with beaming smiles on our faces. I have to say it was faultless. Everything was just so. Front of house, the ambiance, the decor, the cookery, the wine all exemplary. I just wish I could eat like this every week. Just do it people…..

L’Enclume
Cavendish Street, Cartmel
Nr Grange over Sands
Cumbria, LA11 6PZ
+44 (0) 15395 36362
http://www.lenclume.co.uk

 

No. 17 – Milnthorpe, Cumbria

“A pleasant little gem, buried in the village of Milnthorpe”

We love Arnside. It’s an hours scurry up the M6 for us. It was a fairly ‘grimmish’ Saturday but we were determined to make a day of it. Arnside isn’t exactly blessed as a gastronomic paradise. Its got a cracking chippy, The Albion pub on the front is decent enough and the Old Bakehouse next door cooks up as good a pie and a brew as anyone. But, whilst hungry for lunch on the way nothing was floating our boat.

Hang on I quipped “A friend of mine keeps banging on about somewhere in Milnthorpe with a number as its name”. The Flame accepted the terms and gave the thumbs up to proceed. Milnthorpe is a couple of miles from Arnside and on the way too. We gingerly edged through the village before stumbling upon the smartly turned out, double fronted ‘shop’ with the sign ‘No 17’ above. We parked round the back. It turns out this is the way in anyway. The front door on the street is locked up.

IMG_0266It looks very smart from the outside, very tempting. Basically No17 is described as “a contemporary style eatery with a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. Its run by Kate Cook and Chef Graeme Shuttleworth for locals and visitors alike. It boasts the use of premium local produce, complimented with fine local ales, affordable wines, champagnes and cocktails”. Its hard to disagree with any of that. As we ate at lunch it was fairly full, as it would seem lots of us had decided to turn up unannounced! Nonetheless is was still very relaxed and pleasant.

fullsizeoutput_14b7Our waitress gave us our printed ‘specials’ sheet along with a handsome, bound A5 booklet describing the rest of the offer. It makes fine reading, something for everyone, with a touch of the extra, befitting of an independent restaurant looking to pull in people from miles around.

image

Lunch offered quality open sandwiches and salads, pizzas as well as some smart mains and deli boards. The Flame went for the seafood deli board (£12.50) served with Organic Bread, Chutney, Dipping Sauce & Side Salad. It was an array of fish, Smoked Salmon, Smoked Mackerel, Crayfish & Prawn Cocktail, Mini Fish & Chips and King Prawns. I dare say it could have done two as a starter but The Flame put the lot away as a main. It certainly looked the part. All the bits and pieces tasted good too. The Flame was well pleased. The Meat and Cheese board with Serrano Ham, Ham Hock, Honey Roast Ham, Cheddar & Smoked Wensleydale looked decent too.

image

I went for the ‘market fish special of the day,’ Sea Bass, baby corn, sugar snap peas in a Penang Thai curry with fruity cous cous (£12.95). Again beautifully presented. The fish pan fried to perfection. For me there wasn’t quite enough curry sauce and it wasn’t spicy enough, always the danger when ordering a curry in a generic restaurant, but it tasted great and the cous cous mopped up nicely.

imageWe didn’t have dessert as we wanted to press on to Arnside. They looked good though. The table of four next to us all had burgers which looked tremendous, whilst an elderly couple had fish and chips, all done well. I’m not saying you should all head on up here but I would definitely recommend the diversion from a gentle stroll along the Cumbrian coast. I can well imagine it being a thoroughly civilised interlude on an evening, when you can sample the wines a little more and maybe the more intimate atmosphere of a darkened outdoors. Great job by Kate and Graeme, Definitely one to try again.

No17 Restaurant & Lounge,
17 Park Road,
Milnthorpe,
Cumbria LA7 7AD

www.No17parkroad.com

T 015395 64831