All posts by thecooktwit

A bloke from a little town called Newton-le-Willows in the North West of England. Works and plays in Manchester. He is of a certain age who likes his food and beer. This blog has foodie reviews. Personal opinions of the food and places I've been. Fully understands that preparing food is a tough gig. If I enjoy, it goes on here to let others know. Likes cooking as well. Likes trying the dishes we all see on telly and in celeb chef recipe books. You may notice 'the flame' gets a mention. She is my lovely wife who happens to have red hair! It's a nod to the musings of AA Gill whose wife he calls 'the blonde'. Enjoy
Eating Out Reviews

Evelyn’s Cafe Bar – Manchester

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“I love the Northern Quarter bars in Manchester. Don’t get to them often enough. Evelyn’s Cafe Bar pushes the food boundaries a little further with a varied and flavourful menu”

Finally decide to make the effort. Its 5.30 another office shift complete. I trudged through torrential rain to meet my younger ‘bruv’ Chris. Evelyn’s boasts an understated frontage. Its several minutes of frantic texting before said relative shuffles up the stairs to doff his cap and shed his protective shell. The standard NQ, uppercase, terracotta signage and light door manifestation is all that stands between the public and the delights within.

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Still once in it’s a fine space. Only a handful of punters were in, and we settled for a naturally lit table near the window. I perched on a trendy grey sofa looking outwards to survey the scene. Quality light oak tables, each sporting natty chequered napkins in readiness. The ‘de riguer ‘ Northern Quarter exposed brick and bare metal lighting brackets are all in place. Its smart enough, great for a casual dine. The space is dominated by the sky blue exposed kitchen which juts into frame.

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We both settled in to a small bottle of Runaway pale ale (thick end of a fiver) and run through the grey on white menu. It’s an eclectic mix of small plates, sandwiches, large plates all laced with spice, herbs, pulses, grains and beans. Chris points out that his other half would love here as she is a ‘veggie’.

The prices are all prescribed in ‘pointage’ terms. Everything is something point 5 or point 9. We assume they are in pounds!

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We select the smashed avocado with pickled chilli and crackers (£4) and Korean chicken with roasted chilli (£6.50) to start. By hokey the chicken had a kick! A lime dressing tried to keep the flames down, but not much. The ratio of crumb to chicken was a bit higher than I would have liked but all in all, a decent start. 

For mains I went for the crab and shrimp burger with basil aioli, chilli, fennel and chips (£14). I was swayed by the word crab, always a tempter for me. In truth I probably played a bit too safe. The ‘burger’ was basically a deep fried crab and shrimp paste patty. Very nice, decent chips but perhaps not what I had in mind. Our kid was far more adventurous and went for seared mackerel with chilli, mint, vegetables and black rice (£14.50). The mackerel was nicely charred, the black rice a revelation and all set over a pleasant slick of green mint sauce. I think he won that one.

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Smashed avocado, korean chicken, mackerel, crab & prawn burger 

I won dessert though! Get this, a lime, avocado and honey cheesecake (£5.90 or 5.9). Set on a flap jack base it was an acquired taste, but nevertheless a taste that I did acquire by about the third fork full. Sprinkled with pistachio it was a fine end. The young relative swayed by figs, went figs, chocolate and rosewater ice cream (5.5). I perhaps should point out my brother is a prodigious talent in the world of wolfing down food. I did manage to taste a small forkful before it quickly went south. Very nice I recall.

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Runaway pale ale, figs, chocolate, rose water ice cream, lime, avocado, honey cheesecake!

All in the bill chipped in at just short of seventy quid or 69.8. Bit hefty for a casual tea, but twenty of that went on the excellent Runaway beers. Evelyn’s is the latest addition to the empire being constructed by the local food entrepreneurs who own the Mughli(s) (reviewed here) and The Railway Cafe in Alderley Edge (reviewed here). All three for me offer a completely unique dining experience. Full of different flavours, some hit, some miss but all beautifully delivered in smart surrounds. Give them all a go.

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Evelyn’s Cafe Bar
G18 — SMITHFIELD BUILDING
TIB ST,
MANCHESTER
M4 1NB
09:00 – 23:00 MON – SUN
HELLO@EVELYNSCAFEBAR.COM
T 0161 834 3303

http://www.evelynscafebar.com

Eating Out Reviews

The Broad Chare – Newcastle Upon Tyne

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“If you’re ever in Newcastle you’ll do a lot worse than nip in here for tea!”

Whilst touring the North East as part of my day job I was left searching for somewhere to stay. A quick flirt into booking.com soon had me ensconced in a rather dreary, corporate box called Jurys Inn. However, it suffers from a rather sensational location overlooking the magnificent Tyne, a stones throw from their version of The Millennium Bridge. Despite being a Monday night, a quick ‘reccy’ soon had me peering into the windows of the local eateries. I knew ‘House of Tides’ was close by, but knew it would be shut. Twitter, soon had me tapping into the wonderful ‘Broad Chare’.

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Its stationed yards from the aforementioned River Tyne in an old ‘warehousey’, shipping type building. Looks rather wonderful actually. I stepped in past the ‘Michelin’ approved stickers. Unlike most gastropubs of late Mr Farrow and Mr Ball have struggled to impact this particular gaff, as indeed have the deliberately mismatched fabric emporiums. This is strictly ‘vinylette’ flooring territory in standard colours. its wonderfully basic. A well stocked bar to the right beckons. A magnificent selection of cask ales soon has the eyes on stalks. A pale pint of local ‘Writers Block’ was ordered up.

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I then instructed my genial host to pull back a chair and settle me in for a slap up feed on a table for one. “Certainly Sir, we should have one in an hour”. An hour! on a monday night!. I settled downstairs with some local magazines. Thankfully, some twenty minutes later, a wonderful table, upstairs by a window was dutifully prepared. I surveyed the stark, paper table mat/menu. Super, pub grubby type stuff with some interesting twists at decent prices. All was well. A specials board highlighted to some more seasonal offerings with a slightly weightier price tag. I stuck to the standard offer (as work was paying!)

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Starters had me quaffing some glorious nuggets of monkfish cheeks, dredged in a spicy crumb with a homemade tartar sauce alongside. All piping hot and a bargain at £3.75.

For a main I went for the bubble and squeak with two glorious duck eggs and homemade HP sauce for just a tenner. Two big, fat, fried, squat rings of ‘taters’ and greens smothered by two fried eggs, all set on a slurry of piquant, brown sauce. It was glorious. Truly hit the spot.

To finish I went for almond rice pudding with sour cherries at £5.50. A hefty bowl of dreamy, creamy goodness with the added bonus of an almond crunch matched with the sweetness of cherry. Another storming dish.

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Rarely have I enjoyed three courses together as much as this and all washed down by a decent pint in a thoroughly convivial atmosphere. Service matched the pleasure of the eating. All in for £25. Cant say fairer than that.

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I was informed next day by a local that its all the brainchild of local restauranteur/chef Terry Leybourne who has a few other outfits in the town. Sounds as though Newcastle is rather fortunate. Along with Kenny Atkinson round the corner at House of Tides It seems it has its all its eating places well sorted. Ill have to get up here more often…

The Broad Chare

25 Broad Chare

Newcastle Upon Tyne

NE1 3DQ

0191 211 2144

http://www.thebroadchare.co.uk

Eating Out Reviews

Salvis Mozzarella Bar – Manchester

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The Flame required pampering. A boys outing was in the offing and so something Italian and informal was needed. Salvis, the long standing Manchester based Italian produce importer seemed to fit the bill. I’ve already reviewed Salvis Cucina, so I set my aim on the newly re-opened Salvis Mozzarella Bar in the Corn Exchange.

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We arrived via a cocktail or two. Unlike the flash new names that are exploding upwards into the rather impressive Corn Exchange, Salvis have burrowed into the bowels for their dining area. You enter via a wonderful, understated frontage with a few outside tables and then through a narrow but non the less exquisite deli area. The restaurant is down some steps at the end of the counter.

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Our table for two (could have sat four or five) was secreted as far into the bowels as possible. It’s fairly dark down there, but rather romantic. Tables are wooden of a rustic nature, the chairs wooden also with a sprig of coloured paint. I’m sure I passed a tree under there too! Despite our booked appointment of 6.45, the place was full, the staff a little hassled. However, our waiter soon had our table cleaned and prepared and a bottle of Bardalino set up. We surveyed the large, two sided, menus. A blaze of Italian classics, we were drooling.

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I started with Mozzarella in carrozza (£7.00) Egg fried bread filled with Mozzarella. Well, it is a mozzarella bar after all! I mean melted cheese, deep fried, between two slices of eggy bread, whats not to like? I wolfed it in no time.

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Deep fried eggy bread mozzarella, goats cheese and pancetta salad

The Flame went Goats cheese and Pancetta warm salad (£8.95). Not keen on goats cheese myself, the flame loves it. I did taste the pancetta though, wonderfully smoked, it was delish! Both dishes very simply presented, no dots of jus or smears here!

For mains I had the Farcito Calzone (£11.00) Tomato, Mozzarella, ham, mushroom and artichokes. Whilst it’s fair to say a calzone pizza doesn’t look much when first presented, this one soon made its mark. The customary ‘leoparding’ (charred raised bits of dough) was all present and correct. One swift cut through the middle soon had the uncious ooze of the Mediterranean swimming across the plate. Soft globules of herby artichoke, tomatoes and ham melded in a moist puddle of olive oil. It was wonderful.

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Calzone, the deli flash

 

The Flame went a little more out on a limb. Tonno alla Paesana (£12.95) Fresh tuna, cooked with tomatoes, capers and olives. Tuna seemed a touch overdone to me, but tasted superb. Maybe the substantial drizzle of hot Italian accompaniment sent it over from pink. This is right up The Flames street, she declared it devine.

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Tuna and tiramisu. The tuna is under there honest!

 As ever, whenever Im in an Italian I have to have tiramisu, just to test against my childhood memory from Don Luigi’s in Culcheth! This didn’t disappoint. Soft, sweet, creamy and boozed with coffee. A massive portion though, with two spoons. I think they misheard when I said we only wanted one?

As the accent is on romantic rather than bling in here the images are a little dark and don’t do the food justice. We thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience, The Flame quickly acclaiming it one of her favourites. The bill came in at £75, which contained a £20 bot of Bard, so I reckon that was pretty good.

Theres plenty more great dishes to try, so it looks like we’ll be back. Would have to nip back anyway, just to buy some mozzarella from the deli bar….

Salvis Mozzarella Bar

Unit 22b,
The Corn Exchange,
Exchange Square,
Manchester, M4 3TR

0161 222 8021

www.salvismanchester.co.uk

Eating Out Reviews

Tattu – Manchester

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“Spectacular setting, spectacular food…..just bring a spectacular credit card!”

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The big tree, The glass front, the smart downstairs bar

The Flame set me a task. “Go forth and find me a posh Chinese”. Nancy our studious young granddaughter is about to hit 21, Chinese is her favourite. I set to with vim, vigour and trepidation. However, the memory banks had locked in an impressive image of a ‘big tree’ set in a rather grand dining suite. A lunchtime ‘reccy’ to Tattu confirmed that this indeed is a posh Chinese with a big tree in it. Unlike many of Manchester’s ‘approved’ chinese restaurants it is set in the business district of ‘Spinningfileds’ and not Chinatown.

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The branding, funky shots

I will admit to not being a particular connoisseur of Chinese cuisine. Previous experience has me down as a ‘cheapest banquet’ type with the proviso that it includes duck pancakes!

We arrived on the prescribed date at 6.30pm prompt. The rain lashed and the wind blowed. You’d be hard pushed to find the place. It is hidden beneath a gleaming facade of architectural glass. A bizarre, galley wheel door handle guides you in. We were efficiently disrobed of our outerwear and led up a lengthy flight of steps, having left a tasteful bar area downstairs. I had thoughtfully arranged for a booth to seat our party of four. The two youngsters and indeed The Flame were suitably impressed. The Cooktwit’s brownie points were in the ascendancy from the word go.

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It is a stunning dining area. Incredibly lit in a deep purple hue. The aforementioned fauna dominates the room. It acts as the focal point whilst several shell like booths radiate from its base. Our booth was to one side giving us a constant view to the centre. The gentle throb of electro dance tunes provided the background canvas.

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Our table was served by our own waitress. After water was served we were then led through the highly colourful menu. It’s a surprisingly simple tome. a page of dim sum, small dishes, mains, deserts. sides and a set menu. We decided to have a small selection of dim sum to start, a small plate each, a main and a dessert. It all worked rather well.

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Duck and lobster dim sum, small dishes, squid and duck salad

Each course was beautifully presented. First up the lobster and prawn toast and the duck rolls. We all raptured. An array of dips accompanied.

Next our small dishes. Chilli salt baby squid, crispy pork belly, duck and watermelon salad and satay ribs. Our young relatives were already suggesting this was the best place they had ever been. My pork belly was easily as good as any Ive had. I could cut through each glorious tower with a chopstick such was the softness of the flesh. The Flame cooed and marvelled at her salad.

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Pork belly, ribs, steamed sides

Mains up next. The Flame had Red roast baby chicken. It came in an earthenware pot with ‘shrooms’ and asparagus, but sadly we considered this the most disappointing dish of the night. The young celebrant had black pepper and honey ribs, she reckoned these were the best ribs ever. They looked the part, decent portion too. Her sis Jess took on the black angus fillet, which also looked nice and pink.

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The red roast chicken, skate wing with chilli jam
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pepper ribs, angus steak

Though I say so myself I reckon I won with my choice, skate wing with chilli jam. Not too familiar with skate but clearly this chap had built up some strength before succumbing to my plate. I was scraping huge hunks of soft white meat from its bones for hours. Absolutely devine, the jam adding a much needed tang.

Having penned a celebratory paragraph earlier on in the week, a firework amidst a plate of colourful sorbets, heralded the grand reveal of a personalised fortune cookie. Nancy was suitably thrilled. We all agreed a nice touch.

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the fortune cookie, the kandy cocktail

We then settled on desserts. These were truly spectacular. The Harvest Moon Festival (a take on toffee pudding with coriander and a whole host of stunning flavours), the Chocolate Satay (the satay in the shape of a pink macaroon) and Buddhas Hand (a stunning take on lemon posset). All wonderfully presented. It wasn’t all form over function though. They tasted incredible.

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Stunning desserts, chocolate brownie, lemon posset, toffee pudding

By now the dining room and bar were at full tilt. The beautiful people had arrived in their droves. After a wonderful couple of hours it was time to settle up. £240 for four, with wine, the odd cocktail and a 10% service. A bit weighty, but it was a special occasion after all. To be fair it had met the brief with aplomb. The service was bright, alert, friendly and efficient. In short all you would want it to be. Our young guests had loved it and even now can’t stop talking about it. It must have done something right. The Cooktwit’s brownie points have never moved on so quick. It’s a thumbs up from me….

Tattu Restaurant and Bar
Gartside Street
3 Hardman Square
Spinningfields
Manchester
M3 3EB
Phone: 0161 819 2060
Email: hello@tattu.co.uk
Twitter: @tattumcr
Instagram: @tattumcr

Recipes

Egg Rougaille – Shelina Permalloo

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“What a brilliant way to cook eggs! Even better as spicy as this!”

Shelina Permalloo made her first mark as a contestant and winner on Masterchef. Since then she has released two books ‘Sunshine On a Plate” (where this dish was first aired) and lately ‘The Sunshine Diet”.

Its an easy dish really, but with bags of flavour. It takes about 40 minutes all in to prepare and cook. Lovely with some crusty bread to mop up.

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Ingredients

3 tbsp vegetable oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and grated
2 garlic cloves, grated
1 red bird’s eye chilli, finely chopped
4 sprigs of thyme
1 x 400g tin peeled plum tomatoes
2 tbsp freshly chopped coriander (the more the better for me!)
3 large eggs (I did 4 medium eggs)
freshly chopped flat leaf parsley, to garnish
salt

Method

Heat the vegetable oil in a large pan with a tight-fitting lid over a medium heat and fry the onion until just beginning to brown. Add the ginger, garlic, chilli and thyme and cook for 3–4 minutes, stirring occasionally

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Add the tomatoes and cook for 20–25 minutes until the tomatoes are beginning to break down and the oil has started to rise to the top of the mixture. Season with salt, add the chopped coriander and stir

Crack the eggs into the pan, cover and cook for 5 minutes, or until he eggs are softly poached. Garnish with the parsley and serve.

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For more of Shelina’s recipes go to http://www.shelinacooks.com

Eating Out Reviews

Burnt Truffle – Heswall, Wirral

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“It’s above average so I reckon you should go”

The Flame and I finally kick-started our way over to the rather quaint little hamlet of Heswall on the Wirral.  Previously known as golfing territory for the scouse footballing hierarchy but now known as the locale of Head Chef, Gary Usher’s latest bistroette ‘Burnt Truffle’. Burnt is the younger sister of the now infamous ‘Sticky Walnut’ of Hoole (reviewed here). Burnt also has some significant media history in that it bagged hundred grands worth of Kickstarter crowdfunding in record time.

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We were greeted by young Emma one of several, very pleasant, aproned up helpers and whisked up stairs to our blonde table for two. I was mildly disappointed* that the red Formica topped tables; a relic from a previous eatery had been jettisoned! It was all dead smart now. On trend chalky blue walls and soft comfy seats.

 

As I had already stumped up a fifty note pledge to get the gaff up and running we presented our voucher. This quickly turned into two glasses of very welcome fizz. A cracking start. Seconds later, oil soaked sourdough with truffle infused butter. Oh my lord. The Sunday lunch menu running from 12 – 2.30 was up next. Just up my street. Single sheet of crisp A4. Four starters, four mains, four desserts and some trimmings. £18 for two of ‘em, £22 for three. Boom, what else do you need?

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The two starts were superb. Flamed mozzarella with beetroot, raisin and pine nut dressing. I’ve never had flamed cheese before but it needs to be had again. Looked pretty as a picture too, unlike my image which is blurred!

I had the sea bream, pickled mooli, with samphire, courgette and basil. What a stunning little offering this was. The flavours were still resonant** hours later. Never a fan of pickles but I’m getting there, and when placed with the hot fish it was indeed a thing of real beauty.

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I went fairly trad for the main. Roast beef, carrot puree, green beans, red cabbage, spuds and Yorkshire coupled with a side of honey roasted carrots. Beef pink, veg hot and seasoned, carrots historic. Perfection.

The flame loves chicken and endlessly complains when it’s not on as a choice. Here it’s done many ways. Moussed and truffled, poached and rolled, with pancetta, fat potato, shitake mushroom and caramelised onion. I managed to purloin the odd forkful before it was eagerly devoured. Total ‘chickeny’ heaven.

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Chicken, roast beef, carrots and a jokey truffle!

Sweetie bits to finish, and it’s all as good as the first two. Orange and almond sponge with butterscotch and quenelle of crème fraiche. Topped with fruit The Flame was in raptures. Piping hot, moist, sweet, sticky, you name it, it was all here. I had one of my favourite sweetie bits of all time, lemon curd with blackberry and apple. It came in a freezing glass complete with a cigar of marshmallow, crisps of coconut meringue and a few other ‘textury’ bits. All totally historic.

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Couple of strong, dark coffees and we were done. Three sublime courses, all perfection. Another aspect we both felt was just right, was portion size. Morsels of quality rather than quantity. We were pleasantly satsiated as we biffed off for a pleasant stroll down nearby Parkgate prom. And its look out Chorlton, latest sibling Hispi is waiting in the wings. Eyes peeled to help get this one going.

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So if it’s Burnt, Sticky or gone a bit Hispi you can’t go wrong. This Usher chap and his team have got the bistro business sorted. Get there pronto.

*I wasn’t really
**Nicked from Marina O’Loughlin

 

Burnt Truffle
106 TELEGRAPH ROAD
HESWALL
WIRRAL
CH60 0AQ

0151 342 1111

http://www.burnttruffle.net/book.html

Eating Out Reviews

Market House/Altrincham Market – Altrincham, Cheshire

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“Listed building, listed food, listed drink, listed atmosphere, it all should be listed, what a great place!”

I can see it now, councillors meeting across the great towns of the North West, head in hands, next on the agenda, “how do we fill our 1970’s concrete, litter strewn, windswept, soulless shopping centres with eager punters?”. Ever since we bulldozed our ornate, Victorian, colonnades we seem to have lost a touch of quintessential England. Well hats off to the powers that be in Altrincham, either by blindingly, sure footed foresight (or maybe just plain luck) they kept their ancient market structures and have now put them bang centre of the regeneration of a great little Cheshire town.

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Faced with a couple of hours to kill one Sunday afternoon, having dropped the wife off in nearby Knutsford for a girlie afternoon, I ventured the few miles to ‘Alty’. Mere moments from the standard, pedestrianised, shopping mall the fabulous, brick built Market House came into view. Adjoining is the aforementioned, wrought ironed market stall canopy. Today it was half full, with a mixed bag of craft stalls. As it was 3pm things were winding down, but a live duo was still in full flow. I’m sure earlier things had been a lot livelier. I managed to buy the last two pies from the Great North Pie Company, so it couldn’t have been too bad!

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Still, given that I was hungry, it was the market house next door I had come to witness. This is where nine, pioneering, street food vendors ply their trade. A wonderful, chalked mission statement dictates the ethos. Indeed once inside it is pretty clear the blackboard sign writer has a job for life here. All the traders use the same bloke! Indeed branding, normally a key feature of the street food scene is strangely absent. Not that I’m complaining, each trader is set around the perimeter in their own, brown painted box, complete with gold, capital type legend. I casually wander round the edge to take in whose doing what.

In the centre is a series of large, rectangular, multi coloured, wooden tables seating around ten people. The place I reckon could seat around two hundred, and let me tell you they were all taken! The place was rammed. A wonderful cacophony of good natured banter, couples, families, young and old all mingled to create a totally beguiling atmosphere. The problem as a lonesome punter, how do I get served?

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I decided to go for a steak sandwich with béarnaise sauce and caramelised onions on sourdough by the aptly named ‘Tender Cow’. A platoon of cheery youngsters manned the tight galley. First question, what’s your table number? Hmm, I haven’t got one. No worries, “get a pint of locally brewed real ale from ‘Jack in the Box’ and wait there. We’ll be over in twenty five minutes!”. Given the steak has to rest and I love real ale, we struck up a contract and I parted with a heady nine whole English pounds.

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Some might suggest that one could acquire two steak sandwiches and two pints of John Smiths at a nearby Wetherspoons for pretty much the same money, but please, hear me out. Is their steak 28 day aged? Is it rested after being cooked? Is the pizza dough handmade and allowed to prove for 48 hours? Has Katie herself hand sifted the flour to whip up that light sponge? I think not. We are talking, passionate, young, artisan producers here, who know that if they fail here they’re not going to survive. This is quality stuff.

I manage to muscle on to table nine. The tender chap has noticed and delivers my sandwich. It is indeed a thing (a small thing sadly) of real beauty. The taste is sublime, pink juicy steak, sweet onion, tangy sauce. Totally delicious.

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For something sweet I womble over to ‘Wolfhouse Bakery’ and pick a raspberry cheesecake brownie (£3.65). Delivered with a quaint fork on a painted plate, rather lovely. As with the mains the empties are quickly spirited away by a brigade of willing helpers. A pink pig, centre table, dictates the table number and doubles up as a tip collector. It’s all brilliantly organised.

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A coffee from the ”Market House Coffee’ finished off a thoroughly enjoyable hour. It’s open daily (except Monday) until late, 6pm on Sunday. The market next door varies with its fayre and timings. The combination of food and craft is exquisite. You have to try it.

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The market and the traders are all social media savvy. Wi-Fi wafts around. The food on offer is as follows

  • Tender Cow (rare breed, heritage steak based offerings, with chips if required)
  • Jack in the Box (purveyor of Blackjack beer and other craft ale)
  • Honest Crust (wood fired pizza, I resisted one of these as I have already sampled many times, and yes they are very good)
  • Wolfhouse Kitchen (cakes and Korean fried chicken based products. Will be trying these next!)
  • Great North Pie Company (as it says on the tin! I am a big fan, best pies ever)
  • Sam Joseph (chocolatier, macaroons, hot chocolate and ice cream)
  • Market House Coffee (artisan coffee and teas)
  • Reserve Wines (wine)
  • Little Window (small plates, olives and were doing all day brunch when I was there)

I am tempted to keep this little gem a secret, it really is a place you should all try. I’ll definitely be a regular from now on. Still based on my current stats around thirteen or fourteen of you will read this so it shouldn’t spoil things too much!

See the rather splendid website for more details
http://www.altrinchammarket.co.uk
Altrincham Market/Market House
Greenwood Street
WA14 1SA

Eating Out Reviews

Top Dishes of 2015

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I can see a bandwagon coming along. Yep, I’m on it. Welcome to my 2015 food review! It’s now customary to provide a small compendium of what has been quaffed over the last year. I did one for 2014 and that seemed to go down well. I’ve already read a few this year. They’ve generally been a more exotic round up than mine, but nonetheless the grub featured here is top stuff.

Like last year this isn’t all the top grub, but merely the ones that have stood out slightly from the rest. As ever, the joy of a decent feed comes not just from the food itself but from that certain feeling of well being that one feels as the plate, dish, tub, tray, slate (or even flowerpot) is first placed down in front of you and the experience starts.

The meals featured are in no particular order. Just generally great.

Early doors we went to Simon Rogan’s, The French in Manchester. This gives a reason to show some raw beef in coal oil again. I could have shown loads more. Suffice to say The French was very good indeed. But you already knew that.

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I love a decent burger. A newcomer to Manchester this year has been Filthy Cow. Young Jordan has done really well there. The filthy beast is a beaut, and washed down with a Ginger Comfort milkshake you really are on a winner.

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I love a good pud and have had many fine ones. Albina‘s (in Crosby) really hit the spot with their old school jam roly poly and custard.

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We went to Jersey for our hols. Michelin starred Ormer was a highlight. Loved the steak tartare with a horseradish cream. Jersey is a fabulous place to visit and eat. Mark Jordan on the Beach another one to recommend.

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Big treat for me is a Sunday Brunch. We had none better this year than at NewMoon’s spectacular, Scouse opening ‘The Old Blind School‘. Eggs Benedict and French toast, it was boss.

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French toast, haddock omelette, eggs benedict

 

 

Bit of a Spanish explosion in Manchester this year. Had wonderful octopus at Levanter, which is a sensational tapas bar in Ramsbottom (but somehow seems to be considered as near Manchester!). Had a corking paella in Iberica in Spinningfields and wonderous Iberian ribs at the Barton Arcades Lunya. All three will be on the list again for 2016, along with my old faithful El Rincon De Rafa.

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No year would be complete without a good steak. Didn’t have a better one that at Hawksmoor, Manchester. Sensational rib eye with anchovy mayonnaise and thrice cooked chips! Had a wonderfully indulgent lobster in a bun too.

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Had a short break in Barcelona for my birthday. Glorious tuna at the infamous Pinotxo Bar in La Boqueria market. Finished off the break with a suckling pig dish at 4 Gats in the old town.

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I love a Sunday roast, had none better than at Freemasons Wiswell. Simply stunning. Will admit though that The Bay Horse Inn (Lancaster) came up close.

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If pizza is your thing, (and occasionally it is mine!) newcomer to Manchester, Tariff and Dale in the northern quarter do a pretty mean one. Check them out.

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Best scallop and lamb meal was had in one sitting at The Cartford Inn (Little Eccleston) Pretty incredible really, never had lamb like it, totally historic.

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The Flame (the wife!) loves fish pie. Couldn’t get by without mentioning The Bulls Head at Mobberly. She reckoned that’s the best this year. Full of fish, beautiful.

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Love seafood. Who doesn’t? Didn’t have it prepared any better than at The Easy Fish Company in Heaton Moor. What a plaice this is! Well worth a visit. Has a lovely piece of plaice with a slash of Crustacea and shells. Incredible.

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Plaice with all the trimmings

 

Working in Manchester as I do, I couldn’t finish without mentioning The Kitchens. A new, six pop up, street food outlet in Spinningfields. All six are ace, I had them all. Long time favourite Mumma Shnitzel maintained remarkable, consistent quality for their chicken based burgers. Young Richard at Bangers and Bacon (as well as Well Hung) rocked up with superb meat based offerings. Hip Hop Chippy Shop did what it says on the tin with a cracking fish and chip butty. Chaat Cart (Indian Canteen) with the wonderful Aarti at the helm delivered amazing chicken kati rolls. Yakuhama and Wholesome and Raw brought some slightly less carb loaded nutrition to the table.

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Chip butty, bean salad, avocado scrambled egg breakfast, banh mi, kati roll, schnitzel.

All in all a fabulous year for food. I’m sure I’ve missed loads out. I could have added loads more too. Who will forget the Solita Christmas burger? and the lemon posset in a flowerpot at The Royal at Staveley? If you follow on Twitter you would have seen all this anyway. If you read the blog you would have had a bit more detail on these too. Read on if you really haven’t anything better to do!

Anyway that’s it. Happy new year. Let’s look forward to trying more great dishes in 2016!

Eating Out Reviews

The Pheasant Inn – Tattenhall, Cheshire

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“A thoroughly pleasant afternoon overlooking the fine plains of Cheshire with great food and fine ale”

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Christmas is almost upon us. The Cooktwit is using up some leave and so what to do? Easy, it’s an hours scoot to some fine eatery somewhere. And so it came to pass, the steed was set to Tattenhall in Cheshire. Rumours abound that there’s a decent place called The Pheasant Inn. It took a blinking hour to get there, via some fairly tortuous ‘roadage’, but what a fine country pile it is. It’s a combination of ‘olde worlde’ charm that’s had a graft of new plumage to brighten it up and add significant yardage to its covers and accommodation credentials. It’s all rather smart.

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We entered to a roaring fire and positioned ourselves in a large bay window overlooking the plains. It was rather murky for us, but one can easily imagine how ‘breathtook’ one would be on a crisp, clear summers day. The place was even more homely than usual as it was festooned with all things Christmas. Pheasant and countrified baubles litter the main rooms. A homely bar lines up a plethora of fine local ales. A Cheshire Gold (what else?) is brought forth.

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The Flame and I selected from the large, high quality A3 card. Alania, our striking, well-spoken waitress took our order at the table. Two cracking starters get things going. The Flame, partial to smoked salmon went for the Loch Duart smoked salmon, traditional garnish, caviar and granary bloomer (£7.00). It arrives as a thin, square sheet with a deconstructed egg and a splash of caviar. It looked and tasted stunning.

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I went for the Butternut squash risotto, toasted pumpkin seeds, goat’s curd and curry oil (v) (£7.00). It came piping hot, full of flavour and crunch with a hint of spice. A truly scrumptious start.

For mains we went for the Fillet of hake, ox cheek ragu, green kale, horseradish mash and parmesan crisp (£13.95), though The Flame (rather foolishly in my opinion) ditched the mash and had chips instead. She found it a little strange with the ox cheek ragout and could have done with some greens. The fish though, superb.

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I went Pheasant breast, smoked streaky bacon, butternut squash gratin, with chestnut, blackberry jam and sage fritters (£14.50). Beautifully presented with a jug of meaty sauce. The pheasant maybe a ‘tadge’ dry for my liking but still very good. I topped it with a portion of truffle and parmesan chips (£3.95). These were ‘historic’. Getting pretty close to the best chip ever awards.

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Whenever trifle is on the menu that is what I have. No different here. A Poire William and tangerine trifle, chocolate ganache, vanilla mascarpone and violet ice cream (£5.95). Simply tremendous a fine end to thoroughly enjoyable afternoon.

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By the time we left the winter darkness was homing in. It wasn’t long before we were wending our way through darkened country lanes. The Pheasant Inn is another to add to the repertoire. I imagine we will be back in the summer.

The Pheasant Inn
Higher Burwardsley,
Tattenhall,
Cheshire,
CH3 9PF.

T 01829 770434

http://www.thepheasantinn.co.uk

Eating Out Reviews

The Marble Arch Inn – Manchester

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“There’s no finer way to prepare for a footie match, great beer and great food….sorted”

For my sins I am a lifelong Man Utd fan. So you can imagine the laughter and short thrift I gave an equally fervent Man City fan who with a spare ticket in hand invited me to a home match against Swansea. “No thanks matey” I japed. “If you change your mind I’ll be in The Marble Arch at 1pm for a few pints and some lunch” he retorted.

 

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A painting of the bar, elegance, PINT!

Whoa there, you never mentioned that! Twelve thirty next day I’m shuffling out of town from Victoria station towards the pillar of Victorian elegance that is The Marble Arch. It’s set by a swanky new set of flats in an area that, like lots of Manchester is destined for a bit of TLC. It’s not that inviting at the moment but once inside, it instantly feels like home.

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The beers

It’s a long narrow room; the original wooden bar is set out at the bottom, deep in the valley of this great institution. You can practically slide to the bar, such is the steady angle that slopes away from the door. The place is loaded with its original fittings. Most pubs would kill for the features that have been retained here. Majestic mosaic floor tiles, beautiful golden ceiling and wall tiles. It all fits remarkably well.

The place was filling up. I managed to purloin a small table for two. I noticed many of the savvy punters had already reserved most of the tables. Cutlery wrapped in linen and leather bound menus marking their territory.

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Ceiling and floor

The Marble Arch doubles up as the home for The Marble Brewery. So as an added bonus you get loads of great beers too. I am quite partial to their bizarrely titled ‘Pint’ which is their 3.9% session ale. Sadly it was having a day off when I was there. A rather rotund and friendly local suggested the ‘Lagonda IPA’ as a worthy replacement. Boy he was right.

 

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And then the food. The Marble peddles a wonderful menu of British favourites along with an extensive cheese menu. It reminds me of the chop houses in town. My City chum Chris plumbed for the corned beef hash with homemade brown sauce (£12.95). It actually came with a poached egg and a crisp slice of smoky bacon too. He wolfed it in minutes and pronounced it an unctuous delight.

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Lancashire lamb hot pot and corned beef hash

I went for the Lancashire lamb hotpot with pickled cabbage and parsnip mash (£13.95). A cracking portion of creamy, peppery goodness. Once through the crispy top I mopped up the liquor with the parsnip mash. Oh my lord what a splendid lunch, and all washed down with the creamy, hoppy Lagonda.

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Sadly we then had to go to the match in the pouring rain. City scraped a deflected win, Utd lost to Bournemouth!

The Marble Arch has long been a secret, enjoyed mainly by beer drinkers in the know, but with food like this, it’s a worthy addition to your list to try. If you are visiting Manchester put this on your tour….along with Old Trafford.

The Marble Arch Inn
73 Rochdale Road
Manchester
M4 4HY
T 0161 8325914

http://www.marblebeers.com/contact-us/