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At restaurants, pubs and other fine eateries

Eating Out Reviews

The Viking – West Kirby

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“The latest Simon Rimmer project is all about families and fun. It is by the seaside after all!”

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Been to all Simon’s places they are generally very good. Local produce with quality fittings. The Viking (Pub and Bakehouse) in West Kirby on the Wirral keeps up the tradition in spades. The Flame and I went on an adventure, the objective (as always) to end up with a decent pint and a good feed. A couple of train rides including a trip under the Mersey had us leaning on the railings, breathing in the wonderful sea air overlooking the sweeping sands of West Kirby. Its heady stuff. That said it was a 3/4 mile, uphill, fifteen minute walk inland before the freshly painted Viking homed into view. It’s a fine sight though. Like its local counterpart, The Elephant (reviewed here) it is liberally adorned with smart, simple, painted branding.

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It had only been open couple of weeks as we arrived for a bustling Saturday lunch. We hadn’t booked. Thankfully the youngster who greeted us prodded the iPad for what seemed like an age before finally declaring there was a spot available. As there was only two of us we finally took our place on the last table for six!

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It’s a big place, essentially there is a huge bar in the middle surrounded by wood based, Scandinavian influenced furniture. It’s a smart fit out. A viking ship is moored outside for the kids. Its very family orientated, and why not?

The place is manned by a platoon of check shirted youngsters. Our enthusiastic waitress Lucy was quickly on hand to guide us through the process. A Five Point Brewery pale ale soon had my thirst quenched as we sifted through the wipe clean, branded menu booklet. Its full of standard favourites and includes a decent pizza choice. It majors on brunch too, in fact its fair to say it’s a blinking good menu with plenty of decent choice. 

As its name suggests a worthy note is its bakehouse. The Flame’s hummus starter (£4.50) served with a raft of hot buttered, herby, charred flatbread soon confirmed that this is no gimmick. It was truly spectacular, probably too much as a starter, but gorgeous nonetheless. I had chargrilled halloumi (£6.50) which came with even more of it, mingled with onions and tomatoes. Both starters wolfed and loved, though The Flame doesn’t like food served in tins!

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For mains I had a perfectly decent ‘Budvar’ beer battered fillet of haddock, hand cut chips, minted mushy peas, tartare sauce (£13). The Flame her standard….fish pie (£13.50). It came loaded with Scottish salmon, North Atlantic prawns, naturally smoked haddock, peas, parsley and a side of buttered greens. The greens were incredibly salty but quickly replaced with a double portion with standard seasoning! The menu suggested a twenty-five minute wait for the pie. It arrived in its own curious little balsa wood tray and an inner sleeve of parchment. A little strange but proclaimed as a beauty by The Flame.

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As ever when trifle looms on a menu it has to be ordered. This time a cherry trifle (£5.50). Tons of plump cherries, lashings of cream and vanilla chantilly, Light on sponge but lovely all the same. A decent brew and we were ready to saunter back to conclude our wonderful adventure.

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I have to say well done to Simon and his team. They’ve weighed up whats needed and tailored the fit out to the market. Service bright and perhaps a little too enthusiastic at the moment. We were asked about four times whether we were enjoying our food. Perhaps lacking in confidence while its new? But it’ll settle down soon. I reckon he’s hit just about every trend going to ensure it hits the spot and has something for everyone. Its even got tank beer! A great family place, we’ll be going again. We loved the sea side and there’s plenty more delights on the menu to try.

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See also Liberty Tavern, Greens, The Elephant,

The Viking
Black Horse Hill
West Kirby
CH48 6DS

T: 0151 601 1888
http://www.thevikingpub.co.uk

Eating Out Reviews

Cholmondeley Arms – Cholmondeley, Cheshire

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“Take it from me, don’t use the M6 again! All you need is the A49 and The Cholmondeley Arms!”

The flame and I ventured south to the wonderfully named Shelsey Beauchamp. A young relatives christening the point of travel. A fabulous weekend was had in the Shropshire countryside. However, it was a tortuous trip south on the M6, so I vouched to head back using ‘A’ roads or to be precise the A49.

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I wont lie though, there was an ulterior motive. I reckoned we would be needing a feed after a couple of hours and recalled from years ago that an old converted school called The Cholmondeley Arms lay in wait. The grapevine had suggested it had been made over and was on ‘foodie’ form. It homed into view exactly as I’d remembered it.

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It made a fine sight. Spruced up brick, well tendered lawns, leafy foliage, a wealth of outdoor dining space. It was no less spectacular inside too. High ceilings, wooden floorboards, old school time accoutrements including roller blackboards! (remember them)? It’s a quality make over, the accessories budget alone must have run to a bit. Anyway, what about the food?

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Well that was spectacular too. Explained in a flurry of old time font on a thick cream card resplendent with the coat of arms the menu makes a fine read. It lists a raft of British classics with a twist. Whilst I drooled over the litany of pink roast beef tumbling from the kitchen, we both went fish for mains, as we had dined from the cow the night before. The menu was surveyed whilst quaffing gently from a pint of Red Willows Faithless, a particular favourite.

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Duck pate, buttered greens, devilled kidneys

I started with devilled kidneys (£5.95), each ‘offalic’ morsel licked with spice, and then based on a thick slice of sourdough slicked in creamy goo. An obligatory sprig completed the look. Wonderful start. The Flame went for the confit duck pate (£6.45). A lovely chunk set on an eventful salad and crunchy toast. She proclaimed it a total success.

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For mains The Flame went for her favourite fish pie (£13.45). It was beautifully presented in its own hot skillet with criss cross topped potato and supreme bowl of buttered greens. Plenty of fish in there but the sauce a little thin. Nonetheless a winner.

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I went for the cod loin with pine nut and herb crumb with sautéed samphire, new potatoes, mussels and a lemon and dill sauce (£15.95). The cod a little bland in fairness, but cooked well, the crumb adding some interest. Any shortcomings were more than made up with by the accompaniments. When liberated with a ham fist, dill can rather overpower things; here it was gently laced lending the dish a soothing edge rather than a ‘wham’ to the palate. Great stuff. Meaty mussels, salty samphire, best new potatoes completed a truly satisfying course.

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As ever a sweet finish was required. The homemade pud menu had me all over the place, could have stuck a pin in, but went for the strawberry gin and summer fruit trifle (£5.50). It arrived on its plank in a storage jar. The delivery just as God intended. A gin soaked base topped with vanilla custard and a slug of proper cream. Probably the best trifle I’ve had in a long while. Dessert of the year so far! The Flame had a very decent branded coffee complete with her own morsel of sticky flapjack.

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So there we have it. Fabulous meal and a great plug for the A49! Came in at £48, so its on top gastropub lines. ‘The Cholm’ is seemingly a bit of a gin champion as well as a magnet for classic car clubs. Plenty of events up and coming. Nearby is Cholmondeley castle too. I reckon this is worth an hour or twos drive for anyone. Well worth the trip…

The Cholmondeley Arms
Wrenbury Road
Cholmondeley
NR Malpas
Cheshire
SY14 8HN
t: 01829 720300
e: info@cholmondeleyarms.co.uk

Eating Out Reviews

Yorks Bakery Cafe – Birmingham

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“In my brief, humble opinion eating brunch in Birmingham has no equal”

A gentlemen’s weekend had broken out. A rock gig at Birmingham’s premier ‘mega hangar’ the supposed centrepiece. However as subsistence director I was tasked with ensuring our humble threesome didn’t starve or become slaked with thirst. Thirst was sorted by local hostelries The Wellington and The Victoria, food came via the unlikely titled Yorks Bakery. Having travelled by train and being really adventurous you may be surprised to learn that all this sustenance was had within 200 yards of New Street station!

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We stumbled on Yorks first and foremost on the afternoon of said gig. We were enticed by a beer and burger for a tenner banner. We soon learned that this was a midweek special, however, undeterred the decor and general demeanour had us suitably hooked to sit in a try it out. I immediately recognised the place as a typical, urban, trendy type, ‘Northern Quarter’* cafe, resplendent in the obligatory exposed services and homemade tables, chairs and benches. A hip backing track and cool staff completed the look. A well stocked, stack of homemade cakes on the bar helped too!

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As it was we went for the burger and fries anyway, allied to a bottle of pale ale and a super boost smoothie. The fries gun powdered, the burger suitably sized, cooked pink but overshadowed for me by an over ‘garlicky’ aioli. Could have done with it on the side and not caked over the bottom bun. All in all though a super effort and enjoyed by all.

What really caught the eye for me was the menu for breakfast/brunch. As we were staying at the nearby ‘Nitenight’, breakfast was an extra that we had to fund ourselves. And so come 9.30 next morning we took our place back in Yorks whilst the young staff optimistically put out the kerbside tables and chairs. We surveyed the super A4 card once more to confirm our order.

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A couple of trendy teas, served in big glass urns and a decent ‘americano’ take the edge of the previous nights beer. The house breakfast here when shared is called ‘The gentleman’, which was highly appropriate, as my two esteemed cohorts took up the offer of a sharing plate. A fairly hefty £15 each with unlimited brews. But boy what a set up. Quality, local, artisan ingredients set on a huge plank that barely fitted on our table. Fine herby sausages, oak smoked bacon, huge shrooms, homemade barbecue beans (a particular highlight), fried eggs and wonderful sourdough toast and local butter. All done to perfection.

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I went off beam and tried the middle eastern breakfast ‘Shakshuka’ (£8). Peppers, onions sweated in garlic, cumin and Harissa with baked eggs, yoghurt and herbs. This came hot in its own skillet and sourdough bread. Absolutely wonderful, what a great start to a day. I followed with a bit of sweetness. Toasted banana bread, with espresso labne? Sweet dukka and a raspberry coulis (£5). Oh my, another triumph.

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Shakshuka, toasted banana bread

We were in the place for a good hour and a half. By the time we came out for our 11.20 train the place was packed. It would appear quite a lot of the Birmingham city dwellers are aware of Yorks, as they were all out getting their brunch. Even outside was full. So once again it’s a full recommend. If you ever find yourself with an hour to kill at New Street railway station you can either grab a snack from the chains inside or take the gentle 50 yard stroll to Yorks. I know what id do……

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Lovely cakes

Yorks Bakery Cafe
29 Stephenson Street
Birmingham

T 0121 643 4331
http://www.yorksbakerycafe.co.uk

Eating Out Reviews

Waddington Arms – Waddington, Clitheroe

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“Hmm that’s another fine place you’ve got me into”

Lancashire once again throws up another place to drive out to. Truth be known Ive been passed The Waddington Arms a few times on the way to north west foodie favourite, The Parkers Arms (reviewed here). We regularly meet up with a couple from Leeds and often meet halfway. This time I suggested The Waddington Arms in (guess where)? Waddington as a decent meeting point.

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All the accoutrements of a fine Sunday lunch were in place. Sleepy idyllic village, check, good country walks, check, fine country pubs to stop off at, check. However, the sleepy village bit wasn’t quite as sleepy as anticipated. Being fathers day and the annual Waddington duck race it was far from sleepy. Indeed the place was cordoned off and suitably rammed with revellers intent on losing their mortgage on the dubious fate of a numbered plastic duck! Thankfully I had booked a table, and it was with a suitably smug swagger that we entered this fine establishment and took our place in the rather grand dining room. Set to one side of the heaving traditional stone floored bar, the space held host to several enormous, antique dining tables. Im sure one could seat twelve easy, indeed ours could have sat eight. We sat in huge comfy carvers and glanced out into the duck waving throng through heavy tartan drapes.

A couple of Harrier pale ales had the gentlemen in the crew purring nicely. We surveyed the enormous, cream and blue menu card. Along with a chalked specials board it covered all the British classics and a few other bits too. The card promised the best of the local produce.

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Black pudding, fish cakes, duck spring rolls

Starting off I was left slightly disappointed really. My confit duck spring rolls on a pineapple and a chilli chutney base were pleasant enough, but a poor second to the wonderfully peppery, chunky vegetable soup, the sensational black pudding, poached egg, haddock, bacon on a crumpet and the sublime fish cakes enlisted by the others.

I was much more enraptured with my main. A rather super fillet of sea bream atop an uncious seafood risotto, bursting with meaty mussels and flavour. Others had a creditable fish and chips and a rather good steak and ale pie with all the trimmings.

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Fish and chips, seafood risotto and sea bream, steak and ale pie

I ventured, as always for a sweet end. A cuboid of bread and butter pudding, slicked in cream for me. Would have preferred a grand, messy dollop courtesy of a shovel from a huge earthenware bowl, but hey it tasted fine.

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The finish line and merriment, bread and butter pudding

I should mention that after Donald (duck number 343) had romped home down the fast running village stream the heavens decided to disgorge its torrent. Waddington Arms being the centre of all the action became the natural refuge for the bedraggled hordes. Our previously civilised dining area became the place where tortured parents rested their weary and increasingly bored youngsters. We took the light hearted commotion in our stride. It went to show really just what community spirit is all about. Clearly Waddington Arms know their place in it, right at the centre. It’s a super place and I’m sure with kinder elements and a less frenzied pace it is a definite thumbs up and one to get to again.

Waddington Arms
Waddington

Clitheroe

Lancashire

BB7 3HP

01200 423262

http://www.waddingtonarms.co.uk

Eating Out Reviews

Baratxuri – Ramsbottom

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“Another wonderfully elegant splash of Spain has wafted onto the streets of Ramsbottom!” 

The weather forecast (even for Lancashire!) was looking good. “This is it!” I motioned to long suffering companion The Flame, “Ramsbottom, here we go, I need to try Baratxuri pronto”. To explain Baratxuri is the younger sister of long time favourite Levanter (reviewed here). Both based in Ramsbottom, both the ‘brainchildren’ of Joe and Fiona, both serve up authentic Spanish cuisine of the highest quality. Levanter is billed as a tapas (small plates) bar; Baratxuri touts itself as a Pintxos (pronounced Peen cho!) bar. 

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Whereas Levanter is wonderfully rustic, Baratxuri seems to have a more elegant feel. Similar in size, galley at the back, bar to the right, the walls are clad in a patchwork of colourful Spanish tiles. A slinky jazz track buzzes in the background. We selected one of only two tables in front of the sun kissed window. Most people where then left to sit on high bar stools around a beer barrel or up to a fitted café bar. Chalked boards detail the food on offer. I reckon twenty covers would fill it. It is a fabulously, relaxing space.

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Apparently Pintxo is a Basque word that literally means a “spike”. This would explain why all the bite sized goodies on the bar where harpooned with a wooden pick. The idea is that you slink up to the bar, order your txacoli (traditional dry white wine), take a plate and fill up with the exquisite morsels. They are £3 a pop. You simply stack the picks in a glass which formulates your Pintxo bill at the end. Great way to dine.

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The spikes! of Pintxos

As well as the small bites on the bar, a small board sets out further pintxos that are ordered up hot and fresh from the kitchen. Typically £4.50 each. Sunday adds the magnificent Mariscada as a special at £35 to share. As a lover of seafood it was this special that I was particularly keen to try. The Mariscada is a forty minute wait, (though it took around fifty! for us). We settled with a couple of Pintxos to satiate our cravings, one crab and one ham and cheese. Both decidedly pleasant. I missed out on a small bucket of octopus, one of the other pintxos that came out later.

Finally having watched a couple of others come out before us, and after the tools, tomato salad and bread, our ‘feast of the sea’ was placed before us. A true sight to behold I’m sure you’ll agree?

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A dressed crab, half a lobster, sensational scallops on a bed of peppers and fennel sausage, grilled sardine, a mound of whitebait, two fabulous carabineros prawns and a bucket of lobster bisque. All piping hot and ready to go. We set about the task in hand with gusto. We picked, mopped, sucked, crunched, and slurped our way through a glorious tray of the freshest finery of the sea.

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Though not a big fan of seafood, even The Flame acknowledged the quality of presentation and value for money. We watched many people, couples and friends come and go. Some would grab a draft of Spanish beer others the wine and some pintxos, then simply move on. It all works superbly. All in we settled up at £48 pluis tip for a superb lunch. Allied to the friendly and knowledgeable staff it counts as another triumph for Joe and Fi and  yet another ‘foodie’ reason to head over to Ramsbottom. What a place this is….

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Baratxuri

1 Smithy St,
Ramsbottom,
Bury
BL0 9AT 

01706 559090

http://www.levanterfinefoods.co.uk/baratxuri/

Eating Out Reviews

Evelyn’s Cafe Bar – Manchester

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“I love the Northern Quarter bars in Manchester. Don’t get to them often enough. Evelyn’s Cafe Bar pushes the food boundaries a little further with a varied and flavourful menu”

Finally decide to make the effort. Its 5.30 another office shift complete. I trudged through torrential rain to meet my younger ‘bruv’ Chris. Evelyn’s boasts an understated frontage. Its several minutes of frantic texting before said relative shuffles up the stairs to doff his cap and shed his protective shell. The standard NQ, uppercase, terracotta signage and light door manifestation is all that stands between the public and the delights within.

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Still once in it’s a fine space. Only a handful of punters were in, and we settled for a naturally lit table near the window. I perched on a trendy grey sofa looking outwards to survey the scene. Quality light oak tables, each sporting natty chequered napkins in readiness. The ‘de riguer ‘ Northern Quarter exposed brick and bare metal lighting brackets are all in place. Its smart enough, great for a casual dine. The space is dominated by the sky blue exposed kitchen which juts into frame.

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We both settled in to a small bottle of Runaway pale ale (thick end of a fiver) and run through the grey on white menu. It’s an eclectic mix of small plates, sandwiches, large plates all laced with spice, herbs, pulses, grains and beans. Chris points out that his other half would love here as she is a ‘veggie’.

The prices are all prescribed in ‘pointage’ terms. Everything is something point 5 or point 9. We assume they are in pounds!

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We select the smashed avocado with pickled chilli and crackers (£4) and Korean chicken with roasted chilli (£6.50) to start. By hokey the chicken had a kick! A lime dressing tried to keep the flames down, but not much. The ratio of crumb to chicken was a bit higher than I would have liked but all in all, a decent start. 

For mains I went for the crab and shrimp burger with basil aioli, chilli, fennel and chips (£14). I was swayed by the word crab, always a tempter for me. In truth I probably played a bit too safe. The ‘burger’ was basically a deep fried crab and shrimp paste patty. Very nice, decent chips but perhaps not what I had in mind. Our kid was far more adventurous and went for seared mackerel with chilli, mint, vegetables and black rice (£14.50). The mackerel was nicely charred, the black rice a revelation and all set over a pleasant slick of green mint sauce. I think he won that one.

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Smashed avocado, korean chicken, mackerel, crab & prawn burger 

I won dessert though! Get this, a lime, avocado and honey cheesecake (£5.90 or 5.9). Set on a flap jack base it was an acquired taste, but nevertheless a taste that I did acquire by about the third fork full. Sprinkled with pistachio it was a fine end. The young relative swayed by figs, went figs, chocolate and rosewater ice cream (5.5). I perhaps should point out my brother is a prodigious talent in the world of wolfing down food. I did manage to taste a small forkful before it quickly went south. Very nice I recall.

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Runaway pale ale, figs, chocolate, rose water ice cream, lime, avocado, honey cheesecake!

All in the bill chipped in at just short of seventy quid or 69.8. Bit hefty for a casual tea, but twenty of that went on the excellent Runaway beers. Evelyn’s is the latest addition to the empire being constructed by the local food entrepreneurs who own the Mughli(s) (reviewed here) and The Railway Cafe in Alderley Edge (reviewed here). All three for me offer a completely unique dining experience. Full of different flavours, some hit, some miss but all beautifully delivered in smart surrounds. Give them all a go.

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Evelyn’s Cafe Bar
G18 — SMITHFIELD BUILDING
TIB ST,
MANCHESTER
M4 1NB
09:00 – 23:00 MON – SUN
HELLO@EVELYNSCAFEBAR.COM
T 0161 834 3303

http://www.evelynscafebar.com

Eating Out Reviews

The Broad Chare – Newcastle Upon Tyne

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“If you’re ever in Newcastle you’ll do a lot worse than nip in here for tea!”

Whilst touring the North East as part of my day job I was left searching for somewhere to stay. A quick flirt into booking.com soon had me ensconced in a rather dreary, corporate box called Jurys Inn. However, it suffers from a rather sensational location overlooking the magnificent Tyne, a stones throw from their version of The Millennium Bridge. Despite being a Monday night, a quick ‘reccy’ soon had me peering into the windows of the local eateries. I knew ‘House of Tides’ was close by, but knew it would be shut. Twitter, soon had me tapping into the wonderful ‘Broad Chare’.

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Its stationed yards from the aforementioned River Tyne in an old ‘warehousey’, shipping type building. Looks rather wonderful actually. I stepped in past the ‘Michelin’ approved stickers. Unlike most gastropubs of late Mr Farrow and Mr Ball have struggled to impact this particular gaff, as indeed have the deliberately mismatched fabric emporiums. This is strictly ‘vinylette’ flooring territory in standard colours. its wonderfully basic. A well stocked bar to the right beckons. A magnificent selection of cask ales soon has the eyes on stalks. A pale pint of local ‘Writers Block’ was ordered up.

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I then instructed my genial host to pull back a chair and settle me in for a slap up feed on a table for one. “Certainly Sir, we should have one in an hour”. An hour! on a monday night!. I settled downstairs with some local magazines. Thankfully, some twenty minutes later, a wonderful table, upstairs by a window was dutifully prepared. I surveyed the stark, paper table mat/menu. Super, pub grubby type stuff with some interesting twists at decent prices. All was well. A specials board highlighted to some more seasonal offerings with a slightly weightier price tag. I stuck to the standard offer (as work was paying!)

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Starters had me quaffing some glorious nuggets of monkfish cheeks, dredged in a spicy crumb with a homemade tartar sauce alongside. All piping hot and a bargain at £3.75.

For a main I went for the bubble and squeak with two glorious duck eggs and homemade HP sauce for just a tenner. Two big, fat, fried, squat rings of ‘taters’ and greens smothered by two fried eggs, all set on a slurry of piquant, brown sauce. It was glorious. Truly hit the spot.

To finish I went for almond rice pudding with sour cherries at £5.50. A hefty bowl of dreamy, creamy goodness with the added bonus of an almond crunch matched with the sweetness of cherry. Another storming dish.

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Rarely have I enjoyed three courses together as much as this and all washed down by a decent pint in a thoroughly convivial atmosphere. Service matched the pleasure of the eating. All in for £25. Cant say fairer than that.

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I was informed next day by a local that its all the brainchild of local restauranteur/chef Terry Leybourne who has a few other outfits in the town. Sounds as though Newcastle is rather fortunate. Along with Kenny Atkinson round the corner at House of Tides It seems it has its all its eating places well sorted. Ill have to get up here more often…

The Broad Chare

25 Broad Chare

Newcastle Upon Tyne

NE1 3DQ

0191 211 2144

http://www.thebroadchare.co.uk

Eating Out Reviews

Salvis Mozzarella Bar – Manchester

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The Flame required pampering. A boys outing was in the offing and so something Italian and informal was needed. Salvis, the long standing Manchester based Italian produce importer seemed to fit the bill. I’ve already reviewed Salvis Cucina, so I set my aim on the newly re-opened Salvis Mozzarella Bar in the Corn Exchange.

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We arrived via a cocktail or two. Unlike the flash new names that are exploding upwards into the rather impressive Corn Exchange, Salvis have burrowed into the bowels for their dining area. You enter via a wonderful, understated frontage with a few outside tables and then through a narrow but non the less exquisite deli area. The restaurant is down some steps at the end of the counter.

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Our table for two (could have sat four or five) was secreted as far into the bowels as possible. It’s fairly dark down there, but rather romantic. Tables are wooden of a rustic nature, the chairs wooden also with a sprig of coloured paint. I’m sure I passed a tree under there too! Despite our booked appointment of 6.45, the place was full, the staff a little hassled. However, our waiter soon had our table cleaned and prepared and a bottle of Bardalino set up. We surveyed the large, two sided, menus. A blaze of Italian classics, we were drooling.

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I started with Mozzarella in carrozza (£7.00) Egg fried bread filled with Mozzarella. Well, it is a mozzarella bar after all! I mean melted cheese, deep fried, between two slices of eggy bread, whats not to like? I wolfed it in no time.

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Deep fried eggy bread mozzarella, goats cheese and pancetta salad

The Flame went Goats cheese and Pancetta warm salad (£8.95). Not keen on goats cheese myself, the flame loves it. I did taste the pancetta though, wonderfully smoked, it was delish! Both dishes very simply presented, no dots of jus or smears here!

For mains I had the Farcito Calzone (£11.00) Tomato, Mozzarella, ham, mushroom and artichokes. Whilst it’s fair to say a calzone pizza doesn’t look much when first presented, this one soon made its mark. The customary ‘leoparding’ (charred raised bits of dough) was all present and correct. One swift cut through the middle soon had the uncious ooze of the Mediterranean swimming across the plate. Soft globules of herby artichoke, tomatoes and ham melded in a moist puddle of olive oil. It was wonderful.

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Calzone, the deli flash

 

The Flame went a little more out on a limb. Tonno alla Paesana (£12.95) Fresh tuna, cooked with tomatoes, capers and olives. Tuna seemed a touch overdone to me, but tasted superb. Maybe the substantial drizzle of hot Italian accompaniment sent it over from pink. This is right up The Flames street, she declared it devine.

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Tuna and tiramisu. The tuna is under there honest!

 As ever, whenever Im in an Italian I have to have tiramisu, just to test against my childhood memory from Don Luigi’s in Culcheth! This didn’t disappoint. Soft, sweet, creamy and boozed with coffee. A massive portion though, with two spoons. I think they misheard when I said we only wanted one?

As the accent is on romantic rather than bling in here the images are a little dark and don’t do the food justice. We thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience, The Flame quickly acclaiming it one of her favourites. The bill came in at £75, which contained a £20 bot of Bard, so I reckon that was pretty good.

Theres plenty more great dishes to try, so it looks like we’ll be back. Would have to nip back anyway, just to buy some mozzarella from the deli bar….

Salvis Mozzarella Bar

Unit 22b,
The Corn Exchange,
Exchange Square,
Manchester, M4 3TR

0161 222 8021

www.salvismanchester.co.uk

Eating Out Reviews

Tattu – Manchester

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“Spectacular setting, spectacular food…..just bring a spectacular credit card!”

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The big tree, The glass front, the smart downstairs bar

The Flame set me a task. “Go forth and find me a posh Chinese”. Nancy our studious young granddaughter is about to hit 21, Chinese is her favourite. I set to with vim, vigour and trepidation. However, the memory banks had locked in an impressive image of a ‘big tree’ set in a rather grand dining suite. A lunchtime ‘reccy’ to Tattu confirmed that this indeed is a posh Chinese with a big tree in it. Unlike many of Manchester’s ‘approved’ chinese restaurants it is set in the business district of ‘Spinningfileds’ and not Chinatown.

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The branding, funky shots

I will admit to not being a particular connoisseur of Chinese cuisine. Previous experience has me down as a ‘cheapest banquet’ type with the proviso that it includes duck pancakes!

We arrived on the prescribed date at 6.30pm prompt. The rain lashed and the wind blowed. You’d be hard pushed to find the place. It is hidden beneath a gleaming facade of architectural glass. A bizarre, galley wheel door handle guides you in. We were efficiently disrobed of our outerwear and led up a lengthy flight of steps, having left a tasteful bar area downstairs. I had thoughtfully arranged for a booth to seat our party of four. The two youngsters and indeed The Flame were suitably impressed. The Cooktwit’s brownie points were in the ascendancy from the word go.

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It is a stunning dining area. Incredibly lit in a deep purple hue. The aforementioned fauna dominates the room. It acts as the focal point whilst several shell like booths radiate from its base. Our booth was to one side giving us a constant view to the centre. The gentle throb of electro dance tunes provided the background canvas.

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Our table was served by our own waitress. After water was served we were then led through the highly colourful menu. It’s a surprisingly simple tome. a page of dim sum, small dishes, mains, deserts. sides and a set menu. We decided to have a small selection of dim sum to start, a small plate each, a main and a dessert. It all worked rather well.

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Duck and lobster dim sum, small dishes, squid and duck salad

Each course was beautifully presented. First up the lobster and prawn toast and the duck rolls. We all raptured. An array of dips accompanied.

Next our small dishes. Chilli salt baby squid, crispy pork belly, duck and watermelon salad and satay ribs. Our young relatives were already suggesting this was the best place they had ever been. My pork belly was easily as good as any Ive had. I could cut through each glorious tower with a chopstick such was the softness of the flesh. The Flame cooed and marvelled at her salad.

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Pork belly, ribs, steamed sides

Mains up next. The Flame had Red roast baby chicken. It came in an earthenware pot with ‘shrooms’ and asparagus, but sadly we considered this the most disappointing dish of the night. The young celebrant had black pepper and honey ribs, she reckoned these were the best ribs ever. They looked the part, decent portion too. Her sis Jess took on the black angus fillet, which also looked nice and pink.

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The red roast chicken, skate wing with chilli jam
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pepper ribs, angus steak

Though I say so myself I reckon I won with my choice, skate wing with chilli jam. Not too familiar with skate but clearly this chap had built up some strength before succumbing to my plate. I was scraping huge hunks of soft white meat from its bones for hours. Absolutely devine, the jam adding a much needed tang.

Having penned a celebratory paragraph earlier on in the week, a firework amidst a plate of colourful sorbets, heralded the grand reveal of a personalised fortune cookie. Nancy was suitably thrilled. We all agreed a nice touch.

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the fortune cookie, the kandy cocktail

We then settled on desserts. These were truly spectacular. The Harvest Moon Festival (a take on toffee pudding with coriander and a whole host of stunning flavours), the Chocolate Satay (the satay in the shape of a pink macaroon) and Buddhas Hand (a stunning take on lemon posset). All wonderfully presented. It wasn’t all form over function though. They tasted incredible.

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Stunning desserts, chocolate brownie, lemon posset, toffee pudding

By now the dining room and bar were at full tilt. The beautiful people had arrived in their droves. After a wonderful couple of hours it was time to settle up. £240 for four, with wine, the odd cocktail and a 10% service. A bit weighty, but it was a special occasion after all. To be fair it had met the brief with aplomb. The service was bright, alert, friendly and efficient. In short all you would want it to be. Our young guests had loved it and even now can’t stop talking about it. It must have done something right. The Cooktwit’s brownie points have never moved on so quick. It’s a thumbs up from me….

Tattu Restaurant and Bar
Gartside Street
3 Hardman Square
Spinningfields
Manchester
M3 3EB
Phone: 0161 819 2060
Email: hello@tattu.co.uk
Twitter: @tattumcr
Instagram: @tattumcr

Eating Out Reviews

Burnt Truffle – Heswall, Wirral

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“It’s above average so I reckon you should go”

The Flame and I finally kick-started our way over to the rather quaint little hamlet of Heswall on the Wirral.  Previously known as golfing territory for the scouse footballing hierarchy but now known as the locale of Head Chef, Gary Usher’s latest bistroette ‘Burnt Truffle’. Burnt is the younger sister of the now infamous ‘Sticky Walnut’ of Hoole (reviewed here). Burnt also has some significant media history in that it bagged hundred grands worth of Kickstarter crowdfunding in record time.

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We were greeted by young Emma one of several, very pleasant, aproned up helpers and whisked up stairs to our blonde table for two. I was mildly disappointed* that the red Formica topped tables; a relic from a previous eatery had been jettisoned! It was all dead smart now. On trend chalky blue walls and soft comfy seats.

 

As I had already stumped up a fifty note pledge to get the gaff up and running we presented our voucher. This quickly turned into two glasses of very welcome fizz. A cracking start. Seconds later, oil soaked sourdough with truffle infused butter. Oh my lord. The Sunday lunch menu running from 12 – 2.30 was up next. Just up my street. Single sheet of crisp A4. Four starters, four mains, four desserts and some trimmings. £18 for two of ‘em, £22 for three. Boom, what else do you need?

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The two starts were superb. Flamed mozzarella with beetroot, raisin and pine nut dressing. I’ve never had flamed cheese before but it needs to be had again. Looked pretty as a picture too, unlike my image which is blurred!

I had the sea bream, pickled mooli, with samphire, courgette and basil. What a stunning little offering this was. The flavours were still resonant** hours later. Never a fan of pickles but I’m getting there, and when placed with the hot fish it was indeed a thing of real beauty.

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I went fairly trad for the main. Roast beef, carrot puree, green beans, red cabbage, spuds and Yorkshire coupled with a side of honey roasted carrots. Beef pink, veg hot and seasoned, carrots historic. Perfection.

The flame loves chicken and endlessly complains when it’s not on as a choice. Here it’s done many ways. Moussed and truffled, poached and rolled, with pancetta, fat potato, shitake mushroom and caramelised onion. I managed to purloin the odd forkful before it was eagerly devoured. Total ‘chickeny’ heaven.

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Chicken, roast beef, carrots and a jokey truffle!

Sweetie bits to finish, and it’s all as good as the first two. Orange and almond sponge with butterscotch and quenelle of crème fraiche. Topped with fruit The Flame was in raptures. Piping hot, moist, sweet, sticky, you name it, it was all here. I had one of my favourite sweetie bits of all time, lemon curd with blackberry and apple. It came in a freezing glass complete with a cigar of marshmallow, crisps of coconut meringue and a few other ‘textury’ bits. All totally historic.

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Couple of strong, dark coffees and we were done. Three sublime courses, all perfection. Another aspect we both felt was just right, was portion size. Morsels of quality rather than quantity. We were pleasantly satsiated as we biffed off for a pleasant stroll down nearby Parkgate prom. And its look out Chorlton, latest sibling Hispi is waiting in the wings. Eyes peeled to help get this one going.

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So if it’s Burnt, Sticky or gone a bit Hispi you can’t go wrong. This Usher chap and his team have got the bistro business sorted. Get there pronto.

*I wasn’t really
**Nicked from Marina O’Loughlin

 

Burnt Truffle
106 TELEGRAPH ROAD
HESWALL
WIRRAL
CH60 0AQ

0151 342 1111

http://www.burnttruffle.net/book.html