“Yawn, another superb place to eat in Lancashire!”
Regular readers will know (what you have regulars? – Ed) that I have become acutely aware of the plethora of fine eateries in our very own ‘Northern Quarters’ of Lancashire. It was only a few weeks ago we sampled the wonders of Freemasons at Wiswell (see here). This fine bank holiday Monday it was a quick tour into the fair county of Fylde to witness the highly acclaimed ‘The Cartford Inn’.
During the traumatic week that The Cooktwit was left marooned and had to fend for himself with a five day breakfast blitz of Manchester (see here) he also had to endure eating out straight after work for his tea as well. These things are sent to try us, but you’ll be pleased to know I gave it a good go. I deliberately chose either quirky, relatively new, or just plain different from my normal fayre.
If you’re canny Monday night in Manchester can yield a few bargains. I figured the 50% off food deal at Tariff and Dale, hip new pizza joint in the Northern Quarter would be a good start. And indeed it was. £9.60 all in for a rather fine Outstanding Brewery IPA, a rather generous plate of hot Njuda sausage and chilli pizza and a rather fine tublet of slaw. The pizza was a belter, typified by the rather fine ‘leoparding’ around the edge, ensuring the excellent dough base had been ‘caught’ at just the right time. I ate downstairs in the ubiquitous, NQ, industrialised decor. A thoroughly pleasant teatime feast.
Pizza and slawMore pizza with leoparding.
Tuesday, it was over to another new, Northern Quarter outfit. This time Yard and Coop. It’s modus operandi is to ply the locals in buttermilk fried chicken. I’ve become fairly addicted to this stuff via streetfood favourites Mumma Schnitzel, so I was quite looking forward to compare. I had two decent chunks of boneless thigh. It comes with a much darker (and hence different tasting) crumb than Mummas, but it was nonetheless rather good. The chicken beautifully succulent. I had a couple of sides, a bean salad with creme fraiche which was rather good and a spicy slaw which was not. There was no mayo in it, so it was curiously dry, livening up only when a kick of spice became apparent. Had a corking vanilla milkshake with it. All in around £14. Loved the place, anywhere with a cartoon fox on the wall and some chicken coops to sit in has to be good right?
Chicken and milkshakeMore yardage and the comedy fox
Sticking to the Northern Quarter I then nipped into El Capo for some Mexican tapas (via a rather splendid Seven Brothers Pale ale and a mojito at Beef and Pudding!). I can’t really tell you much about the decor. It was so dark down there I had to use my iphone torch to see the menu! That said I enjoyed the food. I had three plates, balls, heart and cheesy fritters. All really good actually. The cows heart with chilli was particularly good. Subtle liver taste and texture. The meatballs were massive. I imagined that size they would be too dry, but they weren’t. The cheesy fritters provided a lovely contrast to the other two spicy dishes. All in with a Shipyard IPA £18.
Heart balls and fritters. It’s dark so apologies for the crap pics!
A final touch of indulgence. Nipped into Hawksmoor (review here) for a lobster roll and chips. Slushed down with a Buxton IPA it was my biggest expenditure at £27.50, but Ye gods it was good. I recommend all to do this at least once! A lightly toasted brioche elongated roll (hot dog roll?) came stuffed with luscious chunks of sweet, garlic buttered lobster and a dish of buttery béarnaise sauce. I have waxed lyrically at the triple cooked chips before. Given it was sixish I had the exquisite restaurant to myself, I felt like a Lord! Forty five minutes of pure bliss.
Decadence, a lobbie roll
The Flame came back Friday so it was back to a comforting salad for tea! Only kidding, we actually treated ourselves to a chippy tea. Rather good though I say so myself. Top week had by all. Spent a few bob but it was worth it. The new boys on the Manchester block delivered. Plenty more to come……..
“It seems you can get an early breakfast in Manchester, great start to the day”
The Cooktwit only earns his keep in Manchester. It’s an hours jaunt to the ‘metrop’. Breakfast is normally an early morning affair comprising semi skimmed milk and some wheat grains. For variety the grains may be flaked, branned, crusted or boiled.
The Flame took off for a week leaving the hapless cooktwit marooned. However, he doesn’t quake, he dusts himself down, gets out his credit card and hits town. An experiment ensued, what can Manchester offer for a mid-week pre office feed?
First up Pot Kettle Black, bit of a cheat this, I go here quite a bit for a ‘52diet’ porridge. Lovely little independent coffee stop in the Barton Arcade. I’ve tried a few porridges in town. I reckon at £2.50 its good value for money, so I reckon this is the best. A good portion, still with a bit of bite and comes with a cup of honey and dried fruit. Could do with being hotter but you can break walls down with this. Good start.
Tuesday I nipped down to Wholesome and Raw, one of the six new outlets awarded a stab at setting up full time at The Kitchens in Spinningfields. As the name suggests they specialise in organic, good for you grub. I had what turned out to be a cross between a salad and a toastie. Toasted sourdough bread with super scrambled eggs on one and sliced avocado on the other. Flanked by tomatoes and shrubbery dripped in balsamic and oils. An unusual breakfast but nonetheless another super start. Copped me £6.90 though.
Wednesday over to surprise entry Per Tutti. An Italian restaurant by trade, but here it is offering a super breakfast menu from 8am. I dined alone in smart surroundings with great coffee. I plumbed for a smoked haddock, kedgeree scotch egg. Set on rocket it was a fair size and was very tasty. Came in at £8.50 with the brew. A surprisingly good start.
Thursday its over to Bills. First chain of the week, but one I’ve always thought seems a bit better than many. Been to a few around the country. They all seem well thought out with an eclectic interior and a good menu. I had the eggs benedict. I love eggs benedict. I’ve had better than this to be fair; I prefer a thicker hand cut ham, rather than the thin sliced stuff. But I’m quibbling, there’s quite a few in here, the service is perky and smart and it’s a great view onto John Dalton Street. All in Dearest of the week £9.30.
Final day, it’s a sunlit Carlucci’s in Spinningfields. Another chain, but again another quality one in my opinion. Had a corking fry up in Leeds once as well as several decent pastas around the country. Had a simple muesli and yoghurt which came with a dish of honey and a dish of berries. Good portion, great crunch and taste. Lasted me well into the day. Coffee always decent as well, spent many a time in Piccadilly waiting for train with one. All in £7.35.
Have to say I thoroughly enjoyed my little tour of early doors eating in Manchester. Couldn’t fault any of them. If you’re on a budget probably best to stick to a simple independent. All in all I spent £34.65 but each time I was well set up for the day. Ill certainly be giving this a try again as a little treat.
“I reckon you can fall out of bed and hit your head on an AA rosette in the Ribble valley!”
It is clear there is a plethora of fine eateries in this golden seam of rural Lancashire. The Flame and I chalked another Northern gem off the list last Sunday. This time ‘Freemasons at Wiswell’ to add to ‘The Parkers Arms’, ‘Assheton Arms’, ‘The Three Fishes’ and probably a few others. And once again, as with the others, it is well worth the hours drive.
It was a chance tickle on the old ‘tinterweb’ to see where we could go for lunch when I saw Wiswell on the map. It clicked a few cogs and within seconds the ‘Opentable’ electronic platform confirmed we had indeed bagged a lunch time spot at the Freemasons. The steed sped North, an hour later the young lady in the dashboard led us up a narrow track past the fine, understated, terraced exterior.
We pushed through the cacophony of prizes on the windows. Ribands, rosettes, stars, cups they were all there. We knew we were entering somewhere rather grand. We were warmly welcomed and gently ushered to our upper floor table. A quick glance at the bar confirmed my first beverage would be manufactured by Propsect Brewery, a fine purveyor of light beers.
Our table for two could have sat six. We had plenty of space and time to admire the plush, substantial décor. Pure countrtyside. Tweeds mixed with game, hunting, and racing images backed by crisp yellow ‘paintage’. This is a quality interior. This is where you bring your favourite Gran for a fine birthday feast! Great stuff.
First up, the breads. I concur with many that the quality of bread (and the butter for that matter) sets the tone. What a tone this sets. A platoon of warm, homemade delights festooned a steely slate. Quinelles of butter sprigged with salt lent a hand nearby. The combinations were tremendous. I could have carried on and just lived off this.
The bread, butter, the chips
We ordered from the £25 per head, set three course lunch. It’s a sparing but nonetheless triumphant offer. The Flame went for the cod loin, set on charred and pickled melon which was set in a large bowl. The waitress then swamped the said ingredients in a warm pool of iberico ham flavoured broth. The Flame wasn’t initially convinced but soon warmed to the idea. I managed half a fork full of translucent cod, washed in ham. Wonderful. I had heritage tomatoes with English mozzarella salad. Except it wasn’t just that. It also arrived in a huge earthenware bowl. The tomatoes diced, the ice cold mozzarella set as a cream. It was more like a desert. It was crackingly good. A particular revelation being the warm ‘tomato essence’. Coming the day after watching Kenny Atkinson (House of Tides) prepare ‘tomato water’ the day before on Saturday kitchen it was a particular delight.
Cod, heritage tomatoes
Main courses swept in. The Flame a huge pot of fish pie topped with vegetables and dotted with mash. Still a touch short of her all time favourite at The Church Green, but splendid all the same. She also had to test out the chip competition. A couple of weeks back we had lauded the triple cooked versions by Hawksmoor. These duck fat efforts were equally, if not more tremendous. Perfect cylinders of soft, golden potato. A true delight and an absolute must when you come.
I had arguably the finest Sunday roast Ive ever had. The beef cooked to the prescribed vermillion allied to a suite of beautifully cooked and remarkably tasty vegetables. A perfect Sunday roast for me. Thoroughly agreeable.
Sweet time. Two simple desserts. The flame a deep chocolate mousse with passion fruit ice cream, while I had ‘Alpine Strawberry’, a disc of mashed berries with creamy cream and vanilla ice cream. Both thoroughly delightful. A very decent coffee ended it all.
We paid the £65 bill and marvelled to each other at the quality of what we had just eaten. We left already formulating plans to return for a special occasion and to go from the normal menu. The accolades are fully deserved, this is indeed a very special place. I’m afraid it’s another recommend from us.
“It would seem all the hype was right, a simple menu done extremely well”
The grand exterior
It was The Cooktwit birthday, mid-July as always. My aim was to hit two Manchester biggies! An afternoon with the boys yielded a long sought after sortie to Iberica. That was brilliant. For the big day itself though, The Flame treated me to my other ‘on the list’ eatery ‘Hawksmoor’. It was heralded by many as Manchester’s most eagerly awaited restaurant opening. Its original London based versions are still lauded as places to be. Lots have been written about this Manchester version. I doubt I can add too much, but I’ll try!
The pass, the gleeful bar staff
It’s a grand space. Housed in an, old, former, Victorian courthouse on Deansgate. The grandeur is replicated within. Mahogany panels and leather seating defines the look. You enter the dining area via the bar and the spectacular pass. The gentlemen’s club persona continues. One could easily imagine Bertie Wooster treating Gus Finknottle to a snifter and a scotch egg whilst Jeeves* waits outside with the umbrella. Our Jeeves operated indoors by the name of Alex. Wearing a spectacular beard he sat down and explained in perfect detail as to how best to negotiate the evening ahead.
The dining room
A Buxton IPA was his first recommendation. Needless to say that worked. He then led both The Flame and I through the card before delivering a stunning, three course meal. It’s a fairly simple menu. Meat or fish with all the trimmings. The only complication is working out whether to buy your steak by weight (about 10 pence per gram!) or as an individual cut and which sides to add.
For starts I had the scallops. Four massive roasted scallops, scalded to their shell with a crumb and tarragon, garlic butter. They cost £14 mind but blimey what a start. They were plump and delicious. The flame had the smoked salmon and soda bread (£9). Again, simple quality.
Bream in a bag, scallops, ribeye
For mains we went for the royal sea bream with rosemary, garlic and chilli (£18). It came whole ‘en papillote’ with sweet potato side and buttered greens (£3.50 each). Cooked to perfection, the flame stripped it bare in no time. I went for a medium/rare rib eye steak (£26) with triple cooked chips (£4) and an anchovy hollandaise sauce. Hawksmoor is renowned for its steaks. It was easy to understand why. I’m struggling to recall a better steak. I’m not sure I’ve had one, it was off the scale tender. A word about the side. Chips for me nowadays are a rare treat. In the words of Michael Winner these were ‘historic’. A mild crunch outside with a soft centre, pure bliss. It’s worth coming here for these!
As ever desserts were called for. The flame opted for a very neat cheese selection (£10) complete with Apple and walnuts, whilst I went old school with a sticky toffee pudding and ice cream (£7.50). Both great.
The puds
If you’ve been adding up whilst you read, you may have noticed the cost was racking up! The bill came in at £121. Now that’s quite a lot. If you reckon on £80 for a good ‘gastropub’ equivalent you are looking at a good thirty percent more here. Is it worth it?…..I reckon so. We both thought it was a superb meal. Everything, as you would expect, was presented piping hot, cooked to perfection. Service was impeccable. Atmosphere in the grand room was electric as the punters gradually filtered in. A simple menu, all done remarkably well. If you like good honest grub, it can’t really be beaten. Book in as soon as you can. Don’t wait as long as we did……
HAWKSMOOR MANCHESTER
186 DEANSGATE,
MANCHESTER M3 3WB
0161 836 6980
“A sumptuous meal in the most elegant and historic surroundings imaginable…..”
It’s our last night in Barcelona, it’s a Sunday, The Flame and I are desperate for a decent parting memory after a glorious few days. We had tramped round Gaudi’s fair city for a good forty miles in three days. Something close to our headquarters was called for. After consultation with our trusty ‘Lonely Planet’ guide a tucked away hideout “Els Quatre Gats” was earmarked.
The Flame illuminates the 4 Gats exterior!
Honest Catalan cuisine in a lovely back room was promised. We set forth. We weaved our way through a maze of dark alleyways (close to the famous ‘La Rambla’) to be confronted with the grand, subtly lit archway. A few souls hung outside debating the menu, I simply brushed in and asked for a back room seat for two. A dusky young maid agreed this was possible provided we were having dinner. If you wanted tapas you stayed in the rather more modest, but no less authentic, front room.
We sat at our beautifully set table. White linen and silver cutlery beckoned. We gaped in awe around us. There can’t be a room anywhere so clearly designed as an area to dine with a loved one. Elegance radiates from every angle. A huge column of white roses dominates, whilst a dark wooden veranda encircles the space from above. We were downstairs in the centre but one can only imagine the further delight of dining upstairs. Pictures hang around the room depicting the ancestral lineage of this historic room.
Elegance
Salvatore the current encumbent announces his arrival. With his boyish, ‘Rockstar’ looks he exudes front of house charm. He guides us expertly through the card and applauded The Flames’ choice of his Grandmothers cod recipe. Romeo, the grumpy ‘penguined’ waiter wafted around us reading Salvatore’s instructions before throwing our bread down. We glance in amusement as he ‘harumphs’ his way round the room. We decide later that this is all part of the charm. Turns out Romeo is high up the chain, a nod and wink later we realise he loves us really. Especially when he saw how completely I had demolished the suckling pig. A gushing ‘gracias’ greeted my empty plate.
Starters
For starts The Flame won, again! A mixed salad of goats cheese, with walnuts and tomatoes (€12) arrived. The cheese, warmed and encased in a gossamer of scorched filo. The flame crushed though the side to reveal the warm gooey goodness which was mixed with candied fruits. She proclaimed that she could have had this three times over for a main and dessert! It was her sort of dish. By slight contrast I had a warm mushroom soup with black pudding (€12). Watching some of the other dishes coming out I realised I had made a small error here. The lobster risotto should have been my choice. That said the soup with the black pudding lollipop and egg yolk was a delight, very ‘mushroomy’ as you would expect. It had a very thick consistency, never more apparent than when Romeo poured it quickly over the egg and pudding!
As mentioned for mains The Flame picked the cod (€21) which came with a gorgeous aioli on top with a crumb, quince jelly and a smear of salty roe. All set on creamy spinach. My morsel was sublime. The flame once again raptured. Not to be outdone though my suckling pig with sweet potato, candied pears and orange sauce (€26) was a triumph. My, albeit, sharp knife sliced through the crusty skin into the sweet, sticky flesh with ease. Mopped up with sauce and a flash of pear and spud it was a taste sensation. All that was left was a pile of stripped sinewy bone. Romeo was impressed.
Suckling pig, grandmas cod, bones
For dessert I had the cheesecake with coffee pastry and nuts (€9) whilst The Flame opted for the apricot cake, a ginger jam, topped with a coconut cream and lemon (€8). Both were works of art and gastronomy. Presented on a slate with swirls and swishes of sauce they could have come straight out a Parisienne patisserie. Both sublime.
The menu, desserts
We enjoyed a couple of glasses of wine and some fine coffee. The bill came to (€109) which is about seventy quid. Pretty much English ‘gastropub’ money. We both concluded this was one of the best dining experiences we’ve ever had. Made no doubt as much by the surroundings as the food. We whiled away a tad more time with the wonderful live singer, strumming Joan Armatrading tunes. A gleeful Salvatore thanked us for coming. We ambled into the night truly satiated. A fine end to a wonderful holiday. Picasso knew what he was doing when he came here, I urge you all to get the next flight out…..enjoy!
“A sumptuous crumb of the real Spain…….in Ramsbottom!”
The Flame and I (mainly I) love Ramsbottom. Whenever we are stuck for a ride out, its first on my list as a place to hit. I’ve already jotted a few words here and there about the Sunday market, Hearth Of The Ram and dining on The East Lancashire Railway. It’s a super spot, and now (well for several months actually) to top it all Levanter Fine Foods have opened a quaint, shops width of Spain. What an inspired enterprise this is.
I’ve stumbled across Fiona and Joe (husband and wife team who own Levanter) several times over the last couple of years. I had the pleasure of devouring a plate of Joe’s paella at a Manchester food festival. I’ve bought their ‘sabrasada’ and fine iberico ham from the stall on Ramsbottom market. They’ve now ditched the outdoor stuff for a more ‘grown up’ existence running their tapas bar. It’s set left just off the Main Street as you walk up from The East Lancs Railway station.
Bar, boards and range
As I say it’s no more than a shop, but somehow, using ‘tardis’ technology they’ve levered in a bar, some tables and chairs, a raised section, some menu boards and a range to cook on. The whole ensemble creates an enchanting Spanish space. And when combined with the wonderfully excitable Fiona marshalling front of house operations you are soon left with that wonderful feeling that you’ve landed in just the right place at the right time.
After some deliberation The Flame decided a couple of stools at the bar would work for us as we were only ‘nipping’ in for a light lunch. I just about managed to stop myself ordering the Sunday special of 1kg of ‘Txulerton’ Galician steak. At £45 a pop it’s become something bordering on legend status in these parts and it’s easy to see why. We saw a couple come out while we sat at the bar. Read Bacon On The Beechs synopsis here for more details and fine images.
We settled for a more modest selection but nonetheless they all hit the spot. Being a Sunday (and following on from a hectic Saturday night) one has to consider the possibility of certain items being ‘sold out’. Despite the beautifully scribed chalk boards citing an array of fine foods we were encouraged to consult a printed sheet for Sunday lunch. Still plenty to go at.
Tortilla, mixed fish
We settled on a selection of artisan breads with salsa (£3.50), the flame chose slices of acorn fed Iberico Lomo (loin) with rocket and olives (£6) while I settled on the mixed fish of octopus, red mullet, king prawn, whitebait, baby octopus with aioli (£6). We finished with a San Sebastián tortilla (£4) which came out as a sort of warm, fresh, oozy, potato, eggy pie. Being the sweety that I am I had a slab of plum shortcake with cream to finish.
Iberico Lomo, plum shortcake
Even the flame (who is not a big fan of tapas) was moved to conclude that it had been an absolute delight. She wasn’t too keen on the tortilla and wouldn’t contemplate going anywhere near the baby octopus, but revelled in the quality and variety of the breads, the iberico ham was sublime and even had some of the octopus tentacle which was cooked to perfection. A very decent coffee finished a most pleasurable hour.
As you can see we didn’t exactly go through the card, but I reckon it must be a revelation to land here on an evening with an empty stomach and a few hours to while away. There’s a good selection of Spanish beers to complement the food. With Joe cooking, Fiona on welcoming duty and a selection of pleasant and eager helpers it is a thoroughly splendid offer. If I thought I liked Ramsbottom before, the opening of Levanter has just moved it to stellar status. I might even have to move here…………
“Looks like this Seafood Pub Company have got things going in the right direction”
That’s three out of six we’ve done now. Assheton Arms, Farmers Arms and now the Town Green Brasserie. I don’t think I’m being too disingenuous to suggest that the Town Green Brasserie is slightly the less salubrious of the three so far. After all ‘brasserie’ is defined as ‘a small restaurant serving beer and wine as well as food; usually cheap’. It’s smaller than the others with less outdoor space. Not that that stopped the locals slurping outside until the last remnants of the evening sun ebbed away.
It’s the newest though. Open six weeks. The decor as you would imagine is pristine, green, wood and more wood. Seating is basic, no lounging here, hence the brasserie tag? It’s the usual quality menu though. The Flame and I were well impressed with the fayre on offer.
After the gentle breeze out to the sticks (the Cooktwit driving) a local, lonely Burscough brew pale ale had us settled and choosing from the premium card. Seafood features. So it was pretty much seafood that we went for. Whilst we stuck to the menu there was a great selection of specials too. The grilled mackerel, plaice and new potatoes, enthusiastically and expertly explained by our young waitress.
Starters up first. We both went ‘terriney’ and ‘hocky’, me devilled crab, with salmon and shrimps (£6.50) the flame traditional ham with cheeses and chutney (£5.50). They were both presented in a similar fashion, plate, clam shell jar. Both looked good, both tasted very good. My crab had a little kick, the flames ham featured big chunks of the stuff.
Starters, devilled crab and ham hock
Mains rocked up. The flame won this one. Storming piece of hake on a slurry of peas, smoked bacon and onions, (£13.50). The hake was beautifully roasted! She loved it. I went for ‘posh’ scampi, made up of monkfish and king prawn (£18.50) dusted in a dark, crispy coat. If I was being picky it looked a bit boring, but to be fair it was what it said it was going to be so I can’t really argue. There was some big chunks of fish buried in there. The king prawns particularly hunky and flavoursome. Great chips too.
Scampi and hake
As usual I went for a dessert whilst the flame sat back and quaffed a light red wine and a coffee. I went for the passion fruit and strawberry mess with little coconut meringues (£5.95). Lovely end to the meal. I know it’s easy but I love a good mess and this hit the spot.
I love a good mess
All in we were at £35 a head. Pretty standard nowadays. We really like what The Seafood Pub Company are doing. We’ve set our mission to do them all. We’ve a few to go. If they all keep up this standard they really are a credit and an asset to their creators and local community alike. A true delight and a worthy alternative to the Nigel Haworths RVI chain that operate in these parts too. Lancashire has some fantastic places to eat. Long may it continue…
Town Green Brasserie,
Aughton,
Ormskirk,
Lancashire,
L39 6SE
Phone: 01695 420 883
Email: info@towngreenbrasserie.co.uk http://www.seafoodpubcompany.com
“Another good feed in Manchester. Nice view too….”
Every once in a while The Flame and I entertain a rather super Yorkshire couplet. A touch of jovial rivalry ensues. We take them to a Lancastrian offer whilst they treat us to a Yorkshire trek. See here for previous encounters! It was our turn this cold, blustery Sunday in June. We met in a (fairly) central location…Manchester! I decided to stick to the Northern Quarter end.
First stop (the now famous?) Port Street Beer House. We take a fine window table on the first floor. A pint of Bread and Butter! settles the nerves, the conversation flows. Next stop Ply. Charlie is impressed by the ale and the plain wooden furniture. It’s all going well. Three o clock dawns and we hit our preordained slot in TNQ. It’s been ‘on the list’ for some time now.
menu, whitebait
We enter the smart, green corner plot and nestle into our superb table for four. Right in the corner by the big front window. A fine view of the old Smithfield Market façade. The Yorkshire folk are chuffed. Charlie is quite particular about his table. We all issue a sigh of relief. It’s a great table set in a simple room. Green dominates outside and in. Simple wooden furniture keeps us and our plates off the floor. A nice IPA and some red wine have us purring, we flit down the simple Sunday roast menu. The menu is set out beautifully; its rear side boasts its local provenance. There’s plenty to go at for a quick Sunday menu and we all soon know what to have. Its good value too £16.95 for three courses.
squid, salad, soup
The Yorkshire contingient went fishy for starts. One went White bait with a cheeky, chilli and paprika mayonnaise, the other salt and pepper squid, which arrived with a noodle salad and a chilli and lime dressing.
The Flame went for the healthy beetroot and goats cheese salad whilst I go very safe and play with the asparagus veloute. It all looks well and the report card from all has a big tick on it. My soup boasts a quails egg. I think there was one somewhere but it was severely deformed and didn’t have a yolk. The soups was good though, very nice.
One half of the Lancashire and Yorkshire contingent went chicken pie whilst the other went traditional roast. I say chicken pie, it should more accurately read goosnargh chicken with wild mushroom pie. It came with some super chips. The pie had a puff pastry lid. Lifting up revealed a big tasty filling packed with chicken and flavour. I’m sure there was some tarragon in there during my customary mouthful. Wonderful stuff.
Goosnargh chicken pie
Such is my lust for conversation and all round bonhomie I’m half way through my roast before noticing that my freshly ordered pink Cheshire lamb is in fact a few good slices of medium Cheshire beef! Feeling a little perturbed I plough on. My fellow roast compatriot goes for a sensational looking ‘Barry Pughs suckling pig’. It’s a decent roast, no danger.
decent roast, salted cheescake
Whilst all around pale and quake, The Cooktwit presses on. A salted chocolate and honeycomb cheesecake with pistachio sauce rounds off a very pleasing luncheon. We all agree the Lancashire bar has been set high once again. It’s up to Leeds next time! I might have lamb next time…
“It’s was only A bit of brunch but it was still a good feed”
It’s 9.30am Sunday morning, the flame and I have awoken from a slumber caused by a Saturday night Kylie Minogue gig! What to do for breakfast? I rather hopefully suggested a date at ‘The Old Blind School’ in Liverpool. Surprisingly, the flame considered this a good idea despite Liverpool being a forty minute train journey! We were on! Just after eleven we sauntered in to the latest and grandest addition to the NewMoon Company portfolio. We are big fans of Manchester’s ‘Beef and Pudding’ and so ever since the Twitter hype started ‘TOBS’ has been high on the list.
It cuts a fine dash on Hardman Street; it’s a hop, skip and a jump from The Philharmonic. It’s a fine old grade two listed building. It’s actually difficult to believe that this is a restaurant. It is huge. Once in, we settled stage right on the ground floor. We were a little surprised at the lack of eating height tables, but we had little to fear. Dave Mooney (one of the owners) was on hand to supply a quick tour of the place, proudly revealing a further couple of floors. Upwards, via a magnificent staircase a further three rooms provide a veritable platoon of quality settings.
Some fittings
The walls are scattered with artworks reflecting the ‘Scouse’ heritage. ‘Lennon’ prints and nods to the original blind school usage make it more like an art gallery than a high end ‘gastro pub’. Not that that’s a bad thing. Greys, blues and yellows combine with wood, leather and daring chandeliers. It makes for a truly sumptuous experience.
More fittings
As it was Sunday morning it was a heavily truncated menu. Its weekend brunch time. One of my favourite meals. It’s a cracking little booklet. Some slight variations to the normal suspects as well.
The brunch menu
The Flame went for the 3 egg omelette or ‘Arnold Bennet’ as its called. It comes filled with naturally smoked haddock, cheddar cheese and double cream (£7.50). It was a fair old plate full, piping hot and chock full of flavour. The Flame really enjoyed it, but felt it needed a bit of something else, maybe some tomatoes for a change of texture and taste, but we are splitting hairs here. I went for the eggs benedict (£5.95) which were terrific; the ham was off the bone stuff, no pressed, boiled ham here. The hollandaise adding a luscious edge to the perfectly poached eggs. I washed this down with some French toast, served with strawberries and raspberries (£5.95) and lashings of hot coffee. The toast, super sticky and sweet. Good stuff.
French toast, haddock omelette, eggs benedict
It was only a quick impromptu visit and the ‘TOBS’ team were psyching themselves up for the father’s Day onslaught (the place was booked up twice over before five!). We’ll definitely be back for a stab at the super looking main menu which as with all the NewMoonCo outfits use quality raw materials.
The main menu
And judging by this little visit, it would seem there’s someone who knows how to cook behind that newly transformed galley? A well marshalled fleet of smiling service staff, (Emily and Beefy’s Ashley were on hand this time) should ensure continued progress and success. Liverpool seems to be following hard on the heels of Manchester’s foodie explosion. TOBS is here ready and waiting! Bring it on!
The Old Blind School
24 Hardman Street
Liverpool
L1 9AX
0151 709 8002
Continue reading The Cartford Inn – Little Eccleston, Poulton 
The Cook Twit 